Ace77

In redo-ing my headlight assemblies, I found that the metal channels that the headlights bolt to (they also support the nose just in front of the hood, and the wiring harness clips into them) were loose and ineffective. Over time, the bonding between the channels and the underside of the nose has worked loose. It kind of looks like bondo or something, but I'm thinking it is something special.

I'm not interested in an NCRS solution, just something that will strongly attach them back together once they are cleaned up.

Any ideas out there?

Thanks,
Jim

jimduchek

I would suggest sanding both surfaces (roughing them up), cleaning them, and using a good epoxy glue (the kind you have to mix -- walmart sells a great kind that comes in a dual-syringe that always mixes the right amounts). Should you feel that it needs to be a little flexible, I suggest Goop (I kid you not -- that stuff is awesome at adhering to multiple different surfaces), and it sure stands up to a lot of abuse). But I'd say epoxy is the way to go.

Jim

Frank75

I used WEST systems epoxy with cotton-fibre filler on mine. Make sure everything is as clean as you can get it before starting. I sanded and wiped down with an acetone-based cleaner.

Dalannex

I had the exact same problem on my car. I used Evercoat, I think no. 670, epoxy bonding adhesive. I just made sure to clean up both the metal and the fiberglass where they bond, and clean out the holes in the metal that the bonding adhesive squeezes through for added strength, and use plenty of clamps to hold it all together.

MoneyPit

i have a similar problem, however, my problem is the cowl area where it attaches to the metal windshield frame. If any of you guys have any phantom leaks, you may want to look in that area. Anyway, will the epoxy work in this area.

dennis

Getting ready to repair the headlight damage from a hit deer. I have to replace that steel surround beam that the headlights bolt to. Dr. rebuild sells the beam and also a structural adhesive to install it.(p197 of his catalog) There's also a beam bonding strip under there. You seem to be futher along with this repair then I am. Do you need to replace this bonding strip? How does the steel beam locate under the surround.

Pacha

Don't know if you can get it in USA but Sika (from Germany?) makes High tech adhesives that are just awesome (and expensive)
I have glued my hood, cowl area, door panel to frame and rear quarter panels
They even use it to glue composite material on plane wings so it must be good.

bl75vette

I just replaced my surround headlight support on my 75. When I bought the car I knew it was shot. It was totally rusted out and the owner had a cable secured to the frame to hold the radiator from falling out. Well anyway the piece is in and I did not have much trouble with it. First I sanded down the fiberglass underneath to make sure it was free of prior adhesive and clean. I wiped it with tylenol cleaner. I went to Home Depot and bought a tube of PL Premium Polyurthane Adhesive for 3 bucks. I called their technical support and told their tech guy what i wanted to bond and he said it would be perfect. It is both strong and waterproof. Let me tell you, I tested bonding a piece of metal before i did the real thing and it is what i was looking for. As to the installation of the bar support, I removed the front bolts of the headlight mech. so i could drop down the butt'y for more clearance. I also had the hood off and the hood hinges. I found that if i place the left side (driver side) in on an angle i could slide the right side in with a little elbow grease. Make sure you have about 8 c-clamps or adjustable wood clamps with long enough necks to clamp the bar once it is in position. You might want to do a dry run first just to affirm that all is well on the fit. You might want to check the two fender support brackets that this SOB bolts to, to be sure they are not rusted out. My car is in the shop currently being painted. I can stand on the nose now and it won't move at all. Good luck! :cheers: :cheers:

Magnum '82

Check with a body shop or auto parts/paint supply store. Many shops are installing body panels with adhesive now instead of spot welding. The stuff is rather new and really works!

Ace77

dennis,

Not sure of your question is directed at me, but I'm no further along than you. I got them out, I need to clean them up, and I'm trying to figure an easy way to get them stuck back on there. Someone has suggested a Home Depot product works well - that's fine by be. I can't see the need for a bonding strip, since there is no body seam there that I'm aware of. :confused: Thanks for the ref to Dr. Rebuild (well, maybe not! :crazy: ).

There is alot of this bonding material there, though, so I will need to chip it off and get it sanded nice, than apply just as much to the channels before they go in. Locating them will be tough, but there are brackets that attach to the front of the fender well, and the brackets come together as one in the centre, so that should be enough to line them up.

Once I get the other headlight back together (should be tonight got to fab some plate at the mounting area - corroded away completely), I will look at remounting and try to revive the post with results.

p.s. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.


[Modified by Ace77, 1:16 PM 11/22/2001]

Fleetwood

Ace77,the problem with bonding metal to fibreglass is that both expand & contract differently,hence a lot of people have the problem of the metal support seperating from the glass.I used an apoxy adhesive & then fibreglassed strips across the metal support,so that it bonds to fibreglass on both sides of the metal channel,should not come loose again.

R1234

I used a product made by 3M called Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200
to fasten the lower windshield bonding pieces that attach the upper corners of the hood surround. These pieces also get rivited down. It worked very well.