Winter Storage
11-19-2001, 10:16 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Cedar Rapids Iowa
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Winter Storage
Ok is there anything else I need to do?
Fuel stabilizer. Done
Take good rims and tires off and put on old ones. Done
Clean, wash, waxed, and cover. Done
Fuel stabilizer. Done
Take good rims and tires off and put on old ones. Done
Clean, wash, waxed, and cover. Done
11-19-2001, 10:22 PM
#2
Re: Winter Storage (79er)
I believe that this originally came from SWCDuke so credit to him.
**************************************** ******************
Preparation for Winter Storage
You want the fuel tank full during winter storage to prevent moisture from condensing in the tank. Fresh fuel will last at least a year, especially in cold weather, and you don’t need to add a stabilizer to it. The rate of fuel deterioration decreases with decreasing temperature. For long term or indefinite storage, you should drain and flush the fuel system with mineral spirits and treat all interior surfaces to a rust preventative such as WD-40.
You can remove the battery, but on some C2 models the expansion tank must come out along with the heater hoses, so you can leave it in, but disconnect it and charge it at least once a month or leave a battery tender connected. The self discharge rate decreases with temperature, but you want to be sure it remains near full charge as a discharged battery can suffer electrolyte freezing in sub-zero weather.
Just prior to storage, wash it and change the oil and filter. The clock DOES NOT run on fresh oil in the sump during storage, but it DOES RUN on the two year life of the antifreeze and brake fluid. Keep this in mind when planning your maintenance.
Fill the tires to the maximum cold pressure placarded on the sidewall or 35-40 psi. Store the car on the tires. DO NOT STORE IT ON JACKSTANDS WITH THE SUSPENSION DROPPING. This will stress the bushings in torsion for an extended period of time - something they were not designed for. That’s why the AIM and shop manual specify that the bushing bolts must be torqued at normal ride height, so they are not preloaded in torsion.
It’s good if you can extract the fuel from the carb bowls with a syringe. This will keep it from forming gum or varnish when the lighter fraction evaporates.
Cover the car with a breathable cover to keep it clean. The garage should be properly vented IAW local codes. If it will share the garage with a daily driver, leave the driver outside if it is wet or caked with snow. This will help keep moisture from building up.
Close the cowl vents and heater air control **** (LH **** all the way in) This will prevent these paths to the interior from being used by rodents. Place baited traps under the car (near the inside sidewall of the tires is convenient). Also place traps and/or poison inside the engine compartment and cockpit. Check the traps at least once a month.
When you’re ready to start it in the spring remove the traps and poison and be sure the battery is fully charged. Do a general inspection to make sure no fluids are leaking, etc.
If you have a syringe, inject fuel into the bowls until it just dribbles out the venturi nozzles. (This will eliminate the cranking time normally required to fill the bowls.) Check the tires and do a normal cold start. Assuming you only drive a few hundred to a few thousand miles before the next winter storage, the oil is good for the duration.
[Modified by 67HEAVEN, 9:42 PM 11/19/2001]
**************************************** ******************
Preparation for Winter Storage
You want the fuel tank full during winter storage to prevent moisture from condensing in the tank. Fresh fuel will last at least a year, especially in cold weather, and you don’t need to add a stabilizer to it. The rate of fuel deterioration decreases with decreasing temperature. For long term or indefinite storage, you should drain and flush the fuel system with mineral spirits and treat all interior surfaces to a rust preventative such as WD-40.
You can remove the battery, but on some C2 models the expansion tank must come out along with the heater hoses, so you can leave it in, but disconnect it and charge it at least once a month or leave a battery tender connected. The self discharge rate decreases with temperature, but you want to be sure it remains near full charge as a discharged battery can suffer electrolyte freezing in sub-zero weather.
Just prior to storage, wash it and change the oil and filter. The clock DOES NOT run on fresh oil in the sump during storage, but it DOES RUN on the two year life of the antifreeze and brake fluid. Keep this in mind when planning your maintenance.
Fill the tires to the maximum cold pressure placarded on the sidewall or 35-40 psi. Store the car on the tires. DO NOT STORE IT ON JACKSTANDS WITH THE SUSPENSION DROPPING. This will stress the bushings in torsion for an extended period of time - something they were not designed for. That’s why the AIM and shop manual specify that the bushing bolts must be torqued at normal ride height, so they are not preloaded in torsion.
It’s good if you can extract the fuel from the carb bowls with a syringe. This will keep it from forming gum or varnish when the lighter fraction evaporates.
Cover the car with a breathable cover to keep it clean. The garage should be properly vented IAW local codes. If it will share the garage with a daily driver, leave the driver outside if it is wet or caked with snow. This will help keep moisture from building up.
Close the cowl vents and heater air control **** (LH **** all the way in) This will prevent these paths to the interior from being used by rodents. Place baited traps under the car (near the inside sidewall of the tires is convenient). Also place traps and/or poison inside the engine compartment and cockpit. Check the traps at least once a month.
When you’re ready to start it in the spring remove the traps and poison and be sure the battery is fully charged. Do a general inspection to make sure no fluids are leaking, etc.
If you have a syringe, inject fuel into the bowls until it just dribbles out the venturi nozzles. (This will eliminate the cranking time normally required to fill the bowls.) Check the tires and do a normal cold start. Assuming you only drive a few hundred to a few thousand miles before the next winter storage, the oil is good for the duration.
[Modified by 67HEAVEN, 9:42 PM 11/19/2001]
11-20-2001, 12:04 AM
#5
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2001
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 1,864
Received 823 Likes
on
241 Posts
Re: Winter Storage (79er)
67Heaven's post (credit SWCDuke) about covers it.
Here are a couple of additional things I do as well.
- I spray fogging oil (engine storage oil), in the carb just before I shut it off.
Two reasons: To Lube upper cylinders & valves, and it also tends to
soften any carbon deposits.
- In the spring, I crank the engine on the starter until I see oil pressure
on the guage. To keep the engine from starting, I don't allow the choke to
close and don't pump the gas.
Reason for cranking: My brother has had a plane for many years. In the spring, they always "pull it through" (turn the prop by hand) in the spring to prevent a "dry start".
A number of engine failures in small planes can be attributed to a dry start.
I figure it can't hurt.
Barry
Here are a couple of additional things I do as well.
- I spray fogging oil (engine storage oil), in the carb just before I shut it off.
Two reasons: To Lube upper cylinders & valves, and it also tends to
soften any carbon deposits.
- In the spring, I crank the engine on the starter until I see oil pressure
on the guage. To keep the engine from starting, I don't allow the choke to
close and don't pump the gas.
Reason for cranking: My brother has had a plane for many years. In the spring, they always "pull it through" (turn the prop by hand) in the spring to prevent a "dry start".
A number of engine failures in small planes can be attributed to a dry start.
I figure it can't hurt.
Barry
11-20-2001, 12:18 AM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Cedar Rapids Iowa
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Winter Storage (Barry's70LT1)
Thanks guys.
The battier will stay in the car because I normally will start it up in the winter let it warm up and also drive it around the block if it's nice out. As for tires I still have the stock rims with eagle st's on them. I will put these on the car because I don't care if they flat spot. Also the car will be in a non heated-garage forgot to mention that.
The battier will stay in the car because I normally will start it up in the winter let it warm up and also drive it around the block if it's nice out. As for tires I still have the stock rims with eagle st's on them. I will put these on the car because I don't care if they flat spot. Also the car will be in a non heated-garage forgot to mention that.
11-20-2001, 10:05 AM
#9
Team Owner
Re: Winter Storage (79er)
My car is usually stored for only 3 months or so. You've done more than I do.
Storage:
Wash it
Top off the gas
Disconnect the battery
Cover it
Startup:
Drain & refill oil
Connect battery
Start car
Drive
Storage:
Wash it
Top off the gas
Disconnect the battery
Cover it
Startup:
Drain & refill oil
Connect battery
Start car
Drive
11-20-2001, 10:38 AM
#10
Re: Winter Storage (KENS78SILVERANNIV)
Wow... now I know why I live in California. What's snow? 71 degrees today.
