Finally took the plunge
11-13-2007, 10:09 AM
#1
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Finally took the plunge
Budget blower build up started.
Kinda scary how all this is coming together so quick.
A while back cuisinartvette started talking to me about porting my heads. I said it would be nice to have everything all done so I can just bolt it in and go. He started shopping around, and found a guy selling a set of LT1 heads and intake for $300. I was just starting a new contract, but it just so happens that the guy selling them is in the same city that my contract is (Denver)
He stopped by Saturday, and I bought the heads, intake, a ported stock throttle body, and two sets of valve covers, one GM chrome for $500.
Next I PM'ed quiketz about his blower, and just happens to be out by cuisinartvette.
He checked it out last night, and I'm the new owner!
Kinda scary how all this is coming together so quick.
A while back cuisinartvette started talking to me about porting my heads. I said it would be nice to have everything all done so I can just bolt it in and go. He started shopping around, and found a guy selling a set of LT1 heads and intake for $300. I was just starting a new contract, but it just so happens that the guy selling them is in the same city that my contract is (Denver)
He stopped by Saturday, and I bought the heads, intake, a ported stock throttle body, and two sets of valve covers, one GM chrome for $500.Next I PM'ed quiketz about his blower, and just happens to be out by cuisinartvette.
He checked it out last night, and I'm the new owner!
Hi guys. I have a vortech supercharger kit for sale that fits 92-96 vettes with the lt1 or lt4 engine. It is a bolt on kit and you are able to retain your ac and all of the accessories. It uses the S trim compressor which is CARB legal. Price is $2250 and has been dropped from $2600.
The kit is highly upgraded. If you’re serious about getting a kit that works out the gate, this is it. You will not have to worry about belt slip or bleeding off boost from leaky bypass valves with this kit. The upgrades are:
- vortech mini race bypass valve (approx $250)
- 7 rib upgrade from 6 ribs
- Bracket modified for dual idler pullies which give more belt wrap ($750)
- Brand new tensioners (cost $110 from ford)
- Larger diameter inlet tubing (4” compared to 3”)
- Homemade anit rotation valve(better directs the air flow to the compressor)
- Discharge tube is drilled for dual alcohol injection nozzles
- Huge k&n air filter
All of these things are things that you’d want to do if you want to get good power out of the vortech kit. The stock kit is prone to belt slip and the stock kit doesn’t allow easy belt changes. The stock kit requires about 3-4 hours to change the blower belt and with this kit, it can be done in 15 minutes. I was getting belt slip at 6 psi with the stock setup and the new setup included here allowed for 10 psi of boost reliably and without slip. I have the kit instructions and all the little bolts bagged up.
To complete the kit, you’ll need a 255lph in tank fuel pump ($75), spark plugs a heat range colder and gapped tighter, bigger fuel injectors, and a tune to handle the spark needs and fuel needs. If you need injectors, I can offer to sell the injectors on my car which are 38’s. I’m pulling them off to install 60’s.
If you’re looking for a night and day performance difference, then this is it. This kit will reliably work on pump gas with alcohol injection and make excellent power. Even on junky 91 octance California gas, I never had a problem with detonation.
With all this work done to the kit, you’re probably asking why I’m selling it. Well, I’m selling it because I just upgraded to a vortech ysi compressor with custom bracketry and discharge tubing. Let me know if you have any questions, technical or otherwise. I can be reached at russriggs@yahoo.com . The kit is in CA and if you're local, you're more then welcome to come by and check everything out. Here's some pics of everything:
everything installed:
the head unit
here's the bracket with dual idler pullies. the tensioner pictured has been replaced since this photo was taken
more parts of the kit
here's everything else. Not pictured is the polished discharge tube that connects the blower to the throttle body. Also not shown is the polished bypass valve.
The kit is highly upgraded. If you’re serious about getting a kit that works out the gate, this is it. You will not have to worry about belt slip or bleeding off boost from leaky bypass valves with this kit. The upgrades are:
- vortech mini race bypass valve (approx $250)
- 7 rib upgrade from 6 ribs
- Bracket modified for dual idler pullies which give more belt wrap ($750)
- Brand new tensioners (cost $110 from ford)
- Larger diameter inlet tubing (4” compared to 3”)
- Homemade anit rotation valve(better directs the air flow to the compressor)
- Discharge tube is drilled for dual alcohol injection nozzles
- Huge k&n air filter
All of these things are things that you’d want to do if you want to get good power out of the vortech kit. The stock kit is prone to belt slip and the stock kit doesn’t allow easy belt changes. The stock kit requires about 3-4 hours to change the blower belt and with this kit, it can be done in 15 minutes. I was getting belt slip at 6 psi with the stock setup and the new setup included here allowed for 10 psi of boost reliably and without slip. I have the kit instructions and all the little bolts bagged up.
To complete the kit, you’ll need a 255lph in tank fuel pump ($75), spark plugs a heat range colder and gapped tighter, bigger fuel injectors, and a tune to handle the spark needs and fuel needs. If you need injectors, I can offer to sell the injectors on my car which are 38’s. I’m pulling them off to install 60’s.
If you’re looking for a night and day performance difference, then this is it. This kit will reliably work on pump gas with alcohol injection and make excellent power. Even on junky 91 octance California gas, I never had a problem with detonation.
With all this work done to the kit, you’re probably asking why I’m selling it. Well, I’m selling it because I just upgraded to a vortech ysi compressor with custom bracketry and discharge tubing. Let me know if you have any questions, technical or otherwise. I can be reached at russriggs@yahoo.com . The kit is in CA and if you're local, you're more then welcome to come by and check everything out. Here's some pics of everything:
everything installed:
the head unit
here's the bracket with dual idler pullies. the tensioner pictured has been replaced since this photo was taken
more parts of the kit
here's everything else. Not pictured is the polished discharge tube that connects the blower to the throttle body. Also not shown is the polished bypass valve.
Last edited by BrianCunningham; 09-09-2009 at 02:12 PM.
11-14-2007, 10:30 AM
#4
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For now, stock bottom end, but I'm having a set of LT1 heads and intake ported.
While that's getting done I'm going to get the combustion camber opened up
1) to unshrowd the valves
2) to drop the compression a little.
Right now I'm going to keep the stock valve size, but I may go bigger on just the exhaust.
LT4 exhaust valves are sodium filled, so that would be good to go to.
This is all getting done by a forum member, cuisinartvette.
I also want to add a blower cam, but so far the only ones I'm finding are really for roots blowers.
230/240 duration @ .050 with a .500/.500 lift.
I'm opened to suggestions.
I want to run meth injection instead of intercooling, qwiketz already drilled the elbow for it.
I want to NOT run the FMU and MSD ignition retard, instead I'm going to pick up a 2 bar MAP and reprogram the ECU, to enrich the fuel and remap the timing.
While that's getting done I'm going to get the combustion camber opened up
1) to unshrowd the valves
2) to drop the compression a little.
Right now I'm going to keep the stock valve size, but I may go bigger on just the exhaust.
LT4 exhaust valves are sodium filled, so that would be good to go to.
This is all getting done by a forum member, cuisinartvette.
I also want to add a blower cam, but so far the only ones I'm finding are really for roots blowers.
230/240 duration @ .050 with a .500/.500 lift.
I'm opened to suggestions.
I want to run meth injection instead of intercooling, qwiketz already drilled the elbow for it.
I want to NOT run the FMU and MSD ignition retard, instead I'm going to pick up a 2 bar MAP and reprogram the ECU, to enrich the fuel and remap the timing.
11-15-2007, 01:09 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Brian, the LPE blower cam is a nice piece for sure. Should work great for your application. You will love the vortech on your car, get ready to learn how to drive at the auto-x all over again.
11-19-2007, 09:57 PM
#9
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SuperL98 chimed in on my engine mods thread
Keep in mind this is crank hp, and I need to factor in the hp needed to spin the blower.
Thanks man that's just what I needed.
WOW I'm liking those #'s
About how much hp does it take to spin an S-trim?
I know it between 50-100hp
Looks like I'll have to weigh in the smaller boost of the 290, which will be good at keeping the engine alive, and hp is what I want not boost, vs the more easily tuned 276 cam.
Keep in mind this is crank hp, and I need to factor in the hp needed to spin the blower.
Ok, the base setup for these is the stock lt1 block.
Ported LT1 heads from above (stock valves).
1.75 headers with 26 inch pipes.
58mm throttle.
7 inch crank and 3 inch super C pulley.
First is the stock cam
Second is CC LT1 276HR-14, 220/230, .510/.510, 114
Third is CC LT1 290HR-12, 230/244, .510/.540, 112
In the real world the Comp Cam's probably have a little advance ground in but I put them in straight up for now.
Not to dramatic a difference between these two.
BTW the boost @ 6000 was 9psi = Stk cam 8.2 = 276cam 7.7 = 290cam
Your going to see the boost drop as the engine breaths better...
I'll check back in, if you want any changes & can post detailed info on your final combination ... if you want to see it.
Ported LT1 heads from above (stock valves).
1.75 headers with 26 inch pipes.
58mm throttle.
7 inch crank and 3 inch super C pulley.
First is the stock cam
Second is CC LT1 276HR-14, 220/230, .510/.510, 114
Third is CC LT1 290HR-12, 230/244, .510/.540, 112
In the real world the Comp Cam's probably have a little advance ground in but I put them in straight up for now.
Not to dramatic a difference between these two.
BTW the boost @ 6000 was 9psi = Stk cam 8.2 = 276cam 7.7 = 290cam
Your going to see the boost drop as the engine breaths better...
I'll check back in, if you want any changes & can post detailed info on your final combination ... if you want to see it.
WOW I'm liking those #'s
About how much hp does it take to spin an S-trim?
I know it between 50-100hp
Looks like I'll have to weigh in the smaller boost of the 290, which will be good at keeping the engine alive, and hp is what I want not boost, vs the more easily tuned 276 cam.
11-20-2007, 05:32 PM
#10
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More info...
guess I'll be needing a stronger clutch! 
guess I'll be needing a stronger clutch! Found a cam card for these and they run 4 deg advanced.
Put in a realistic "street" exhaust @ 800 cfm.
Backed down the timing to keep the "knock index" down to recommended 2.0.
Final Combination:
Stock LT1 bottom end, electric water pump (no alt, ac comp, ps etc - can't add them in)
Vortech S1, 7 and 3 inch pullies, H20 injection (80% eff intercooler)
1.75 headers 26 inch primaries
800 cfm exhaust (getting 3 psi back pressure - so bigger is better but louder
58mm throttle, stock LT1 manifold
Used 44 lbs nozzles @ 45 psi
LT1 heads ported as above, 10.4 comp (probably should lower this?)
Comp Cams 276hr-14 and 290hr-12 with 1.6 rockers.
Think that's most of it....
Put in a realistic "street" exhaust @ 800 cfm.
Backed down the timing to keep the "knock index" down to recommended 2.0.
Final Combination:
Stock LT1 bottom end, electric water pump (no alt, ac comp, ps etc - can't add them in)
Vortech S1, 7 and 3 inch pullies, H20 injection (80% eff intercooler)
1.75 headers 26 inch primaries
800 cfm exhaust (getting 3 psi back pressure - so bigger is better but louder
58mm throttle, stock LT1 manifold
Used 44 lbs nozzles @ 45 psi
LT1 heads ported as above, 10.4 comp (probably should lower this?)
Comp Cams 276hr-14 and 290hr-12 with 1.6 rockers.
Think that's most of it....
Last edited by BrianCunningham; 11-20-2007 at 05:34 PM.
11-20-2007, 11:24 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
I was told that compressor efficiency isn't as big of a deal if you're running some type of intercooler according my source at vortech. He said that the main thing created with spinning the blower hard is heat. If you can counter act that then there you go...
That engine analyzer is awesome! I wish I had something like that!
Last edited by qwiketz; 11-20-2007 at 11:28 PM.
11-21-2007, 05:54 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
Brian, I may be off base here, and hopefully others will chime in if I am. That being said, I would consider switching to a lower compression forged piston while I had the heads off. I believe you could drop the oil pan and then pull them out the top with the heads off, hone the cylinders and put it back together with the forged pistons and new rings. IMO those factory pistons are going to be your weak link in that motor.
11-21-2007, 09:09 AM
#13
Drifting
well if this is his first run with FI, then perhaps a "practice" shortblock wouldnt be all that bad. The worst thing that will happen is the 2nd ring land will fracture.9well okay that's not the WORST thing that can happen, it's the typical way though.
Then like the man said, you can just slide in new pistons and rods. Or go full boogie and go thru the lower end. Steel crank,h-beam rods,good pistons (I like Wiseco) and a good balance job.
Then like the man said, you can just slide in new pistons and rods. Or go full boogie and go thru the lower end. Steel crank,h-beam rods,good pistons (I like Wiseco) and a good balance job.
11-21-2007, 09:37 AM
#14
Safety Car
I would like to see my combo run through that analyzer and see the results. I have been considering a cam swap and that might help me make a decision. Unfortunately, depending on who you talk to at Comp, you can get considerably different answers.
Aaron
11-21-2007, 10:12 AM
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SuperL98 went ahead and ran someone else's combo who chimed in on the engine mods thread, but you need to ask him.
Nice forum member
Yes, I aggree on the pistons. I'm going to see how much cuisinartvette can open up the cambers, and what compression ratio he can drop me down too. But I wouldn't want to install some other pistons w/o getting it rebalanced.
Nice forum member
Yes, I aggree on the pistons. I'm going to see how much cuisinartvette can open up the cambers, and what compression ratio he can drop me down too. But I wouldn't want to install some other pistons w/o getting it rebalanced.
11-21-2007, 03:20 PM
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SuperL98 went ahead and ran someone else's combo who chimed in on the engine mods thread, but you need to ask him.
Nice forum member
Yes, I aggree on the pistons. I'm going to see how much cuisinartvette can open up the cambers, and what compression ratio he can drop me down too. But I wouldn't want to install some other pistons w/o getting it rebalanced.
Nice forum member
Yes, I aggree on the pistons. I'm going to see how much cuisinartvette can open up the cambers, and what compression ratio he can drop me down too. But I wouldn't want to install some other pistons w/o getting it rebalanced.
11-24-2007, 03:17 AM
#17
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Cuisinart found a machinist out here that does so much volume, he can get me a complete balanced rotating assembly rods, pistons and crank for ANY stroke at a great price.
Looks like it will be a blown stroker!
More toys, $300 for a B&B 3in exhaust!
Looks like it will be a blown stroker!
More toys, $300 for a B&B 3in exhaust!
Brian Cuningham flew out to hang out for a few days to cehck out some parts weve picked up for his build and hang out here to get out of the Denver cold. My place looks like an auto parts store. Heads, intake, blower, motor parts, and now a B&B exhaust a (new) member andrew_huh brought over.
11-26-2007, 08:16 PM
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Latest graph
Looks like 383 is definitely the way to go
Looks like 383 is definitely the way to go
Yes .. I can
First chance I've had to look back at this, been to busy
I worked on the model a bit more, dropped the head flow down a little because it looked high compared to most posted numbers.
Also pushed on the Vortech model after running some chevy and ford combinations I found posted.
Anyway here is a 350 vs. 383, everthing the same as the last model except a little less head flow and a different VS-1 model, using 290 cam (4.03 bore, 3.75 st, 6 inch rod on the 383)...
I also ran two similar LT1 S-Trim combinations I found on the net.
One 350 6 psi no intercooler, and one 355 15 psi w/intercooler.
Looks like we match the power curve shapes and peaks pretty good!
And if you subtract 15% or so, the HP matches the RWHP pretty good as well
First chance I've had to look back at this, been to busy
I worked on the model a bit more, dropped the head flow down a little because it looked high compared to most posted numbers.
Also pushed on the Vortech model after running some chevy and ford combinations I found posted.
Anyway here is a 350 vs. 383, everthing the same as the last model except a little less head flow and a different VS-1 model, using 290 cam (4.03 bore, 3.75 st, 6 inch rod on the 383)...
I also ran two similar LT1 S-Trim combinations I found on the net.
One 350 6 psi no intercooler, and one 355 15 psi w/intercooler.
Looks like we match the power curve shapes and peaks pretty good!
And if you subtract 15% or so, the HP matches the RWHP pretty good as well
12-05-2007, 08:44 PM
#19
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I had Ron port the stock heads I bought.
That way we have a record of everything done.
They had to clean the heads before flowing them,
so 84k miles worth of crud wouldn't clog up the flow bench.
Thanks to Ron for getting that done, man they cleaned up nice
This will both end of lot of debates, and start many more.
peaked at .400 lift!
Makes you wonder about putting big rockers on stock heads.
That way we have a record of everything done.
They had to clean the heads before flowing them,
so 84k miles worth of crud wouldn't clog up the flow bench.
Brian Cunninghams heads freshly soda blasted and flowed...
Very similar to the #s pulled off the web, never hurts to double check it.
Heads and intake will be ported and the flowed (again) seaprately and together. Just for reference. Odd intake port shape.....
Ive seen #s printed out here but no charts yet, just curious.
Very similar to the #s pulled off the web, never hurts to double check it.
Heads and intake will be ported and the flowed (again) seaprately and together. Just for reference. Odd intake port shape.....
Ive seen #s printed out here but no charts yet, just curious.
This will both end of lot of debates, and start many more.
peaked at .400 lift!
Makes you wonder about putting big rockers on stock heads.
12-20-2007, 09:15 AM
#20
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Ron started porting my heads yesterday.
Here's an intake port.
Keep in mind that these are a work in progress, and he hasn't finished the port yet.
He's even porting the oil return holes for me
checkout how the stock guides are NOT centered in the casting
Still trying to figure out what that step on the backside is.
Here's an intake port.
Keep in mind that these are a work in progress, and he hasn't finished the port yet.
He's even porting the oil return holes for me
checkout how the stock guides are NOT centered in the casting
Still trying to figure out what that step on the backside is.