80Matt

I have all the hose connections to the power steering valve removed, and removed the bolt to the "cap end" that attaches to the tie rod. Now just need to separate the power steering valve from the Pittman arm.

If I am reading the directions properly, I have to remove the Pittman arm completely? The nut attaching the Pittman arm to the power steering valve came off no problem. But the bolt attaching the Pittman arm to (what does it attach to?), is a big bolt. My largest wrench is a 1". This bolt is at least a 1 1/16, probably a 1 and 1/8".

Just making sure I'm doing this correctly.

Thanks, Matt

daily_driver

you dont have to remove the pitman arm completely...

just get a tierod or balljoint tool (whicever fits better... i forget which one works on that joint... :conehead )

and knock it off!!

the valve link can go downwards so it is not necessary for the pitman arm to be removed at all.....

be careful of the old valve boot if your rebuilding that valve...(guess you could install a new boot....)

80Matt

The valve is still attached at the Pittman arm connection and at the tie rod. Though no bolt is currently holding it in place at either spot, it would seem that you can't just knock it off until the vavle is detached at one spot. If you attempt to knock it off at he Pittman arm connection, while it still connected (though not bolted) at the tie rod... won't it bend either the valve or the tie rod at the tie rod-end connection.

Am I making sense? I don't want to break it at one end, while trying to remove it at the other end.

Thanks for the help.

Matt

daily_driver

hehehehe

no, its not a bad question!!......it is always good to be careful not to break things..... this way we dont get into trouble!!!

lemme rephrase what i said above....

get the tierod tool and put it in between the END of the pitman arm and the steering valve....

now knock knock knock. :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: until the pitman arm pops off the joint.

DONT even bother undoing the big nut on the pitman arm (the one on the stearing gear box)....

that is how it is done. dont worry, you wont break anything unless you miss the tie rod tool and hit your hand :cuss :cuss (been there....done that...) you might break up the dust boot a bit, but you can install a new one when u rebuild the valve......

:yesnod: :yesnod:

daily_driver

btw: after that is done, you need to rotate the valve off (like a nut)....

rememeber the position of the valve on the relay rod (there might be some thread leftover......and reinstall in same position...)

MikeC

Another way to get the valve out of the pitman arm is to partially put the nut back on the ball stud(so you don't damage the threads) get a big pry bar and try and pry it lose, this probably won't work so add a big hammer. While putting pressure on the end of the ball stud with the prybar, hit the pitman arm with the hammer(hard). It should pop loose. I had to do mine this way as a tie rod seperator would not do it. I hit it about two times and it popped free.

Hope this helps


I do stress, PUT THE NUT BACK ON, so you don't damage the threads of the ball stud

Richard Cooper

Matt,
I just replaced my power steering control valve and cylinder. I had the same trouble as you are having. I went to our local auto parts store and bought a pitman arm puller ($ 15.00). then I removed the big nut ( 1 5/16 inches) and used the puller to pull the pitman arm off. It came right off. Then with the valve out I was able to remove the pitman arm with a ball joint tool and mallet.
But remember what was said before, remember how many turns it took to get the valve off and put it back on the same amount of turns. Good luck.

daily_driver

guys its very easy to knock it while its on the car....

ill assume your using the poor mans jack stands with the whole front end up in the air......

id position the jackstands a little forward of the tranny crossmemeber which gives you plenty o knockin room :lol:

take off the driver tire....

now u can position the tie rod/ball joint knocker (i still dont remember which one fits that joint!!) comming to the rear of the car...

now id use a rubber mallet or a regular hammer will do....

now u can lay on your side parallel with the car and hold the tool with one hand and knock the @!#@# outta it with the other.

itll pop right off.

if you have some guinea pigs, then have them hold it while u bang it...

:lol: :lol:

nunus79

I did it like how daily driver said. I think it was the smaller tie rod pickle fork that is needed to separate the valve from the arm.

One thing that I remember was that the clamping bolt on the valve should be taken completely off. If not the bolt threads will scrape against the steering arm threads and make rotation even harder, not to mention thread damaging.

80Matt

Thanks for all the responses, guys. I'll head out to the garage later this afternoon to give it a go. When I start to bang away, it's nice to have confidence that I'm doing it correctly. :)

Thanks, Matt

80Matt

I set up as described in the posts. Front end up. Driver's tire removed. Ball joint separator tool aft of the ball joint, and parrellel to vehicle (longwise). I then began to hit away at the ball joint tool with hammer.

Banged away with no good results. It looked as if the valve moved, rotating slightly within the tie-rod hookup. The connection to the Pittman arm (the ball joint that I'm trying to separate) did not separate at all.

Am I about to shear the ball joint stem on the valve? It sounded from a couple of the previous responses that the tie rod tool was the better one to use. I'm going to go get one of those and try that today. Will this make a difference? Am I in trouble?

Thanks for the help, Matt

daily_driver

u have to use the smallest one that fits around the joint...

there are 2 tools, one is a tierod tool, one is a balljoint tool.....

im sorry that i dont remember which one it is, however some others inthe thread said its the tierod tool that does it (thats the smaller one)....

either way, youll need both of those tools in your toolbox for your vettes frontend!!