roger newman

Will I create problems if I put my rear spindles in a lathe and turn them down so the bearings no longer need to be pressed on?
I do not have a press but do have access to a lathe.
I need to replace the old spindles as the spines the threads for the nut are a mess. Any vendors of choice?

Tampa Jerry

I would not attempt to do this job unless you have experience in rebuilding them. You can send the entire trailing arm(s) out to Van Steele and have them rebuilt with a 3 year guarantee. They have done thousands of them. They will even match up your rotor to the spindle to minimize runout. Jerry

JohnZ

You'll see other opinions, but I don't recommend it. Slip-fit outer bearings were the original '63 design, but they were recalled and the design and production process were changed to press-fit on the fly due to bearing and spindle failures (which resulted in loss of rear wheels with drum brakes).

67L36Driver

IIWM (if it were me) I'd check the dimensions of the spindle and the bearings and go for the minimum press fit. Sometimes you can get into tolerance stack that results in way more interference than you really need.

Plasticman

A minimal press fit would be acceptable. I have used true slip fit bearings in the past on C2/C3 disc brake Vettes (and they lasted "forever" with easy tear-down for grease/checking/etc.), but others' here on the forum are strongly against them.

The arguement goes back and forth, but I would agree that if you thrash your Vette, you are better off with the press fit. For maintenance and cruising purposes, a slip fit is great! Just note that with a slip fit, any noise you hear while driving, should be checked immediately.

Plasticman

roger newman

This is a 63 tub, but with 66 dics all the way around. the Timken set I have now is a press fit of .008 outer bearing and .016 inner. What tolerance do you prefer without going completely for a slip fit.
The 12 ton press used to remove the old bearings was close to its max. 30 plus years had something to do with that, but I don't want to always have to use major force when working on the car.

67L36Driver

I hope you mean .0008" and .0016".

JM.02 .0008" (tight) is quite a bit and .0016" (tight) is downright silly for the application.

I'd shoot for a couple or three ten thousandts press fit.

I'll be the first to admit I can't run an inside or outside mike worth a hoot, But. I've designed things to have .0002"-.0005" press and got no complaints from our machine shop.

rene-paul

It would be interesting to know the production tolerances of the spindle OD and the bearings ID. The .016 interference may fall within though not optimal..
IMHO, I believe you can rebuild your own spindles using good sound engineering data with the minimal interference to meet your service requirements. Keep in mind that the .001 to .008 end play is equally important on a dics brake sys. This should be at minimum and along with rotor run-out will aid in the anti-pumping effect of the calipers.
I would also like to mention forum member Gary Ramadei as an excellent source of help. He recomends parallel grinding of the bearing spacer and shims and as all ways buy top quality parts.
brgds
rene

wombvette

Do a search of this site. You might find some interesting reading.

sub006

Dick Guldstrand has been updating rear bearings to a looser press fit on almost every street and race car he's serviced for decades.

I have 50,000 miles on mine with 295 section tires on 8 -1/2" offset alloy wheels with no problems whatsoever. Be sure to use synthetic grease!

rahzip

I replaced the rear wheel bearings on my 65 with no press. I heated the bearing with (my wifes ) an electric skillet and chilled the spindle. I slid the bearing on wearing welding gloves. Worked like a champ. I did it a little over a year ago with no ill effects.

I am not recommending anyone else does this, but it worked for me.

needforspeed150

The bearings on the spindles need to have no movement. The spindle would probably turn independently of the bearing when under load.

66since71

As you've seen, lots of debate on the pros and cons of slip fit. I slip fit them, and have had no trouble, 4 car sets including my race car. So little material needs to be removed that it can be done with crocus cloth (cloth backed sand paper). I did the last set without a lathe. If you "turn" them on a lathe, you'll likely take off way too much material. As others have pointed out, the best set up is almost a reduced force press fit. Make them as tight as possible without having to use a press. Mine all would jam if they were even slightly misaligned as I assemble them (in my view a good thing).

Lightweight 001

There are several reasons not to attempt this.

1. If you break a spindle, the wheel departs.

2. Its easier to use our installation tools and directions and do it right then attempt to machine the spindle.

3. There is no performance gain.

Here is the link for the tools:
http://www.duntovmotors.com/SpindlesParkingBrakes.htm

Here is the link for the directions:
http://www.duntovmotors.com/RearSpindleSchool.htm

67L36Driver

Anyone have the cone numbers (Timken) handy. I can look up the dimensions and shaft recomendation for the expected fit.

M86649 inner cone bore is nominal 1.1875"

Set 5? for outer, makes no sense. Should be similar to above only larger bore.

John BX NY

When I did mine years ago I used the slip fit method and Locktite Bearing compound to hold the bearings in place. It was all detailed in a NCRS Restorer article and made sense to me at the time.

john

roger newman

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Anyone have the cone numbers (Timken) handy. I can look up the dimensions and shaft recomendation for the expected fit.

m86649 inner
set 5 for the outer