C5 push button start
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: United Kingdom England
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
C5 push button start
I want to do a push button start on my 97 C5 Vette.
Has anyone else successfully done it?
Please don't clog this tread up with why would you want to do that for you still have to turn on the key posts!
I did push button start on my 99 Z28 and it was cool as hell!
I used a Honda S2000 start button and this install guide
http://www.pitreweb.com/s2000sw.htm
I tried wiring it as per this guide and then I checked up on relays and wired it as below
Now I checked my relay and it is working fine but no start. the Vette has the same three wires for the ignition as the Z28 yellow starter which is 12v plus when cranking and the red which is batter 12v+ and the pink is acc 12v+
I put the 12v+ from the battery on pin 87 and the yellow to the starter on 30 the ground on 86 and the singnal from the new starter switch on 85.
I checked that when I push my starter switch I have 12v+ coming out of pin 30 that goes to the starter! But no start what am I missing!
Surely all the igntion key is doing is sending 12v+ down the yellow wire to the starter solonoid to start the car! The key is in and turned on also so the vats chip is seen!
I am just at the testing stage at the moment I havn't mounted my switch yet until I get it working.
Any positive input would be appriciated!
Has anyone else successfully done it?
Please don't clog this tread up with why would you want to do that for you still have to turn on the key posts!
I did push button start on my 99 Z28 and it was cool as hell!
I used a Honda S2000 start button and this install guide
http://www.pitreweb.com/s2000sw.htm
I tried wiring it as per this guide and then I checked up on relays and wired it as below
Now I checked my relay and it is working fine but no start. the Vette has the same three wires for the ignition as the Z28 yellow starter which is 12v plus when cranking and the red which is batter 12v+ and the pink is acc 12v+
I put the 12v+ from the battery on pin 87 and the yellow to the starter on 30 the ground on 86 and the singnal from the new starter switch on 85.
I checked that when I push my starter switch I have 12v+ coming out of pin 30 that goes to the starter! But no start what am I missing!
Surely all the igntion key is doing is sending 12v+ down the yellow wire to the starter solonoid to start the car! The key is in and turned on also so the vats chip is seen!
I am just at the testing stage at the moment I havn't mounted my switch yet until I get it working.
Any positive input would be appriciated!
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: United Kingdom England
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I havn't yet as I thought the C6 system was keyless also so it would more complicated. Worth a search though!
The relay I wired in should have worked as it sent 12v+ down the yellow wire from the ignition to the starter but no start!
Maybe I need to look at a C5 wiring digram?
Anywhere on online I can look at one?
The relay I wired in should have worked as it sent 12v+ down the yellow wire from the ignition to the starter but no start!
Maybe I need to look at a C5 wiring digram?
Anywhere on online I can look at one?
#6
There are some electrical Guru's on this forum that could answer your question off the top of their head. Unfortunately, I'm not one of them. I do know, however that the yellow wire you reference runs through the neutral safety switch (not likely a problem if it worked before your mod) and then to the Theft Deterrent Relay before arriving at the starter. The yellow wire provides batt+ to the TDR. It must have a ground on the other side of the relay to close the contacts. It gets that ground from the Body Control Module. Specifically, the Starter Enable Relay Control part of the BCM. What I don't know is what causes the BCM to provide a ground to the TDR. I'm assuming you have the key in the "run" position when doing all this. Perhaps some more knowledgeable guys could chime in here. HTH
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: United Kingdom England
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are some electrical Guru's on this forum that could answer your question off the top of their head. Unfortunately, I'm not one of them. I do know, however that the yellow wire you reference runs through the neutral safety switch (not likely a problem if it worked before your mod) and then to the Theft Deterrent Relay before arriving at the starter. The yellow wire provides batt+ to the TDR. It must have a ground on the other side of the relay to close the contacts. It gets that ground from the Body Control Module. Specifically, the Starter Enable Relay Control part of the BCM. What I don't know is what causes the BCM to provide a ground to the TDR. I'm assuming you have the key in the "run" position when doing all this. Perhaps some more knowledgeable guys could chime in here. HTH
I came across this thread in my search for a C6 push button start but the wiring instruction are the same as what I am using.
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220742
#8
Race Director
WATSONS-STREETWORKS is a supplier of many electrical components for street rods that can possibly be adapted to any car. They've just come out with a switch assembly for push button start. You might contact them for possible advice on wiring into a C5/Z06...
The "Igniter" All-in-One Ignition/Start/Stop Switch
Put your Ignition Switch and Starter all into one unit. This gorgeous chrome recessed switch is 3/4" diameter and has a blue LED ring to indicate when the ignition is "On". Push and hold the button while the starter turns over and release when the engine starts. The ignition stays "On". Push again to stop the engine. You've seen it on new, top-end luxury cars... now it can be on your ride, too.
Clean, slick, neat, state-of-the-art.
Put your Ignition Switch and Starter all into one unit. This gorgeous chrome recessed switch is 3/4" diameter and has a blue LED ring to indicate when the ignition is "On". Push and hold the button while the starter turns over and release when the engine starts. The ignition stays "On". Push again to stop the engine. You've seen it on new, top-end luxury cars... now it can be on your ride, too.
Clean, slick, neat, state-of-the-art.
#9
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,094
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
Here are the relevant schematics from the 97 Service Manual. Based on what I see in the schematics I don't recognize the pin numbers you are referencing.
PASS Key Schematic
Starting Cell Schematic
Bill
PASS Key Schematic
Starting Cell Schematic
Bill
#10
Night Owl for life
Member Since: Nov 2003
Location: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
Posts: 23,200
Received 3,247 Likes
on
1,668 Posts
#11
Le Mans Master
"Hey Bill Curlee!!!"
There are a couple of others also
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: United Kingdom England
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks guys as you probably realise I am getting to the limit of my electrical abilty.
Anyway I had a look at how a relay works and I wired as per this dia to switch a postive supply with a low amp supply acc 12v+ supply.
acc12v+ is 85 on the relay (for testing I just touch this wire to the relay pin 85)
86 is ground
87 goes to red 1542 batt 12v+ on the ingnition
30 goes to yellow 5 from the ignition
Then I tested my relay by putting the acc 12v on pin 85 this causes the relay to click and 12v+ comes out of pin 30 and goes down yellow wire 5 in Bills diagram of the ignition system.
The vats key is taken care of because my key is in and turned to ignition on! shifter is in park as always, as far as I can see with my limited electrical knowledge it should have worked!
Anyway I had a look at how a relay works and I wired as per this dia to switch a postive supply with a low amp supply acc 12v+ supply.
acc12v+ is 85 on the relay (for testing I just touch this wire to the relay pin 85)
86 is ground
87 goes to red 1542 batt 12v+ on the ingnition
30 goes to yellow 5 from the ignition
Then I tested my relay by putting the acc 12v on pin 85 this causes the relay to click and 12v+ comes out of pin 30 and goes down yellow wire 5 in Bills diagram of the ignition system.
The vats key is taken care of because my key is in and turned to ignition on! shifter is in park as always, as far as I can see with my limited electrical knowledge it should have worked!
#13
Safety Car
The wiring diagram in the link
http://www.pitreweb.com/s2000sw.htm
and the picture of the relay you have above disagree with each other ...
In the linked instructions ...
30 is 12v from BAT
85 is GND
86 is switched 12v
87 is out to starter
In the picture posted above ....
30 is out to starter
85 is switched 12v
86 is GND
87 is 12v from BAT
Maybe that is your problem ?????
http://www.pitreweb.com/s2000sw.htm
and the picture of the relay you have above disagree with each other ...
In the linked instructions ...
30 is 12v from BAT
85 is GND
86 is switched 12v
87 is out to starter
In the picture posted above ....
30 is out to starter
85 is switched 12v
86 is GND
87 is 12v from BAT
Maybe that is your problem ?????
#14
Safety Car
You have it wired .....
acc12v+ is 85 on the relay (for testing I just touch this wire to the relay pin 85)
86 is ground
87 goes to red 1542 batt 12v+ on the ingnition
30 goes to yellow 5 from the ignition
Looks to me like it ought to be ..... using the above picture ...
30 goes to YELLOW 5 to power the rest of the system (starter)
85 should be the "hot" wire from the starter button (switched - Pin 1)
86 should be GND (Pin 3)
87 should be 12v supply (PINK ??)
The RED 1542 should feed the starter button (pin 2)
If it fails the smoke test ... Sorry !!!!
acc12v+ is 85 on the relay (for testing I just touch this wire to the relay pin 85)
86 is ground
87 goes to red 1542 batt 12v+ on the ingnition
30 goes to yellow 5 from the ignition
Looks to me like it ought to be ..... using the above picture ...
30 goes to YELLOW 5 to power the rest of the system (starter)
85 should be the "hot" wire from the starter button (switched - Pin 1)
86 should be GND (Pin 3)
87 should be 12v supply (PINK ??)
The RED 1542 should feed the starter button (pin 2)
If it fails the smoke test ... Sorry !!!!
#15
Safety Car
NOTE - In my above ... test that pink is a switched +12v ... it should be cold with IGN off and HOT with IGN on
If that is the case - PINK is switched ... RED 1542 is always hot .....
30 goes to YELLOW 5 to power the rest of the system (starter)
85 should be the "hot" wire from the starter button (switched - Pin 1)
86 should be GND (Pin 3)
87 should be 12v supply (RED 1542)
PINK would go to PIN 2 on the button
If that is the case - PINK is switched ... RED 1542 is always hot .....
30 goes to YELLOW 5 to power the rest of the system (starter)
85 should be the "hot" wire from the starter button (switched - Pin 1)
86 should be GND (Pin 3)
87 should be 12v supply (RED 1542)
PINK would go to PIN 2 on the button
Last edited by BlackZ06; 10-14-2007 at 05:45 AM.
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: United Kingdom England
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The wiring diagram in the link
http://www.pitreweb.com/s2000sw.htm
and the picture of the relay you have above disagree with each other ...
In the linked instructions ...
30 is 12v from BAT
85 is GND
86 is switched 12v
87 is out to starter
In the picture posted above ....
30 is out to starter
85 is switched 12v
86 is GND
87 is 12v from BAT
Maybe that is your problem ?????
http://www.pitreweb.com/s2000sw.htm
and the picture of the relay you have above disagree with each other ...
In the linked instructions ...
30 is 12v from BAT
85 is GND
86 is switched 12v
87 is out to starter
In the picture posted above ....
30 is out to starter
85 is switched 12v
86 is GND
87 is 12v from BAT
Maybe that is your problem ?????
Then my brother suggested just get the relay right first so I found my explaintion of relays link and wired it as per the relay diagram I posted.
I am wired as per your last post I just havn't bothered to use my push button strater switch I just tap the acc 12v+ wire to pin 85 on the relay to simulate pushing the starter button and the realy works and 12v+ comes out of pin 30 and the yellow 5 wire to the starter. But still nothing.
I agree with your last post but the second one you have pink as 12v to pin 87 when it should be red batt 12v+
Then you said red 1542 to pin 2 on the starter button this is wrong as the relay has the high amp 12v on pin 87 and then it is switched by the low amp acc 12v+ from the push button!
This is what a relay is for using a low amp 12v supply to switch a high amp 12v supply so your wires and push button don't go up in smoke!
I know relays have many other uses but all I am doing is using it to switch a high amp 12v+ ie starter by using an acc 12v+.
#17
Safety Car
Go back and look at the wiring diagram Bill Dearborn provided .... you are not switching a high amp current through anything ....
The way the Vette system is set up ... the starter is connected DIRECTLY to the battery POSITIVE (RED 1) cable.
When PURPLE 6 is energized (which is a low amp line) it pulls the solenoid closed on the starter and the starter is then supplied high amperage on RED 1.
Here's the way I see it working (based on the linked instructions you posted ... forget the picture of the relay for now ... I think that is where your confusion is coming from)
There are 3 wires attached to the "button" .... one is a ground and that should be easy to figure out .... it is Pin 3.
Pin 2 SHOULD be a switched voltage, so if the button has a light in it, the light only comes on when the ignition is ON, If it was an ALWAYS hot line the button would always be lit, which you don't want when the key is out of the car. So find a switched voltage source for that (PINK ??? - you test it - I really have no dog in this fight - just trying to help ....)
Pin 1 is a wire that runs to pin 86 on the relay.
OK ... we've wired in the button .....
Now for the relay
Pin 30 is looking for an ALWAYS HOT wire. RED 1542 is what you want. It is ALWAYS hot.
Pin 85 is GND and is connected to Pin 3 on the button and to a ground point on the car.
Pin 86 is a wire from Pin 1 on the button
Pin 87 completes the start circuit, and is YELLOW 5
If this doesn't work ... I can't help you any further, I'm 8 Time Zones and +6,000 miles from you.
Good luck
The way the Vette system is set up ... the starter is connected DIRECTLY to the battery POSITIVE (RED 1) cable.
When PURPLE 6 is energized (which is a low amp line) it pulls the solenoid closed on the starter and the starter is then supplied high amperage on RED 1.
Here's the way I see it working (based on the linked instructions you posted ... forget the picture of the relay for now ... I think that is where your confusion is coming from)
There are 3 wires attached to the "button" .... one is a ground and that should be easy to figure out .... it is Pin 3.
Pin 2 SHOULD be a switched voltage, so if the button has a light in it, the light only comes on when the ignition is ON, If it was an ALWAYS hot line the button would always be lit, which you don't want when the key is out of the car. So find a switched voltage source for that (PINK ??? - you test it - I really have no dog in this fight - just trying to help ....)
Pin 1 is a wire that runs to pin 86 on the relay.
OK ... we've wired in the button .....
Now for the relay
Pin 30 is looking for an ALWAYS HOT wire. RED 1542 is what you want. It is ALWAYS hot.
Pin 85 is GND and is connected to Pin 3 on the button and to a ground point on the car.
Pin 86 is a wire from Pin 1 on the button
Pin 87 completes the start circuit, and is YELLOW 5
If this doesn't work ... I can't help you any further, I'm 8 Time Zones and +6,000 miles from you.
Good luck
Last edited by BlackZ06; 10-14-2007 at 07:12 AM.
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: United Kingdom England
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm 8 Time Zones and +6,000 miles from you.
Sorry I didn't mean to sound critical I know you are only trying to help me! Thanks for that.
I will give that a try.
I'm just hoping someone will chime in who has already done this. I' ve found 2 that have I PMed one with no response I will try the other.
Cheers Andy
#20
Burning Brakes
I completely replaced the keyswitch in my track car with a push-to-start . . used a toggle as a master power switch, then a momentary similar to the streetworks kit. It's been quite a while since I built the prototype, but found out the hard way that the circuit is quite a bit more detailed than "apply +12 here". In my case, I ended up needing to replicate all of the logic from "insert key" to "make sure the car dies when the kill-switch is tripped" to pass tech.
I'll dig up the schematic & details from when I put the thing together the 1st time . . . hopefully it'll be useful. It likely won't be an identical replacement for what you're trying to do, but may save on some of the leg work.
Gee, funny thing too . . . I was just wondering if there was a market for a plug-in replacement for something like this.
I'll dig up the schematic & details from when I put the thing together the 1st time . . . hopefully it'll be useful. It likely won't be an identical replacement for what you're trying to do, but may save on some of the leg work.
Gee, funny thing too . . . I was just wondering if there was a market for a plug-in replacement for something like this.