Flareside

Oops, meant Richmond 5 speed... Is there a shifter available that will fit the stock C3 handle location? How about crossmember modifications? I came across a real good deal on this trans, but I'd like to know what I would be getting into. Thanks!

-Joe



[Modified by Flareside, 7:51 PM 11/12/2001]

tsw71

I'm not sure about the Long Engineering shifter handle, but I believe there is something for the Hurst. For my Long shifter, I modified my old hurst comp+ handle by shortening it and bending it slightly back for the right feel. As for the actual shifer,both the long and Hurst will be in the right location.

The only mod for the crossmember involves a mod to the mount bracket that hangs off of the front of the crossmember. The manual that comes with the tranny has sketches of the needed mod. I'm sure one of us that have done this swap can scan a copy for you if you need it.

My car was origially an auto with removable crossmember. This made it much easier to get in. From what I have heard, you will need to remove tailshaft housing to get it in. Good luck





[Modified by tsw71, 5:13 PM 11/12/2001]

Flareside

Tom, it's funny you mention the Long shifter, because that's the shifter that comes with this trans. I didn't think it would fit in a C3. So my best bet would be to use an aftermarket handle and then bend it to fit?

Thanks!

-Joe

GDaina

You will have to change out a U joint, and a spline. The tailshaft takes a 26 tooth spline, same as TH 400, and a larger u joint. You can get the combo ujoint to fit the 26 tooth spline and your drive shaft at NAPA. Think part number is 323 or 324 or 325. Can't remember but they have it

Allan71

You must pull the engine and temporarily move it forward a few inches to get the tranny in. Richmond says to unbolt the tailshaft housing and it will go in with the engine in place, we couldn't do it after much effort. Much quicker and easier just to pull the engine from the start. Get the Long Engineering shifter along with handle HN-1085. You can use a B&M leather **** and it makes a nice setup. Don't know if the Hurst 5-speed shifter will accept the stock looking Corvette handle, but this tranny is a little higher effort shifting than most, so a comfortable shifter and handle is a must. The tranny mount needs to be modified so that basically the high point of the mount is cut back about 2 1/2 inches and this part of the mount is then welded to the back of the present part of the mount. The holes will need to elongated about 2 1/4 inches to the rear since the Richmond mounts are futher back than the Muncie/Warner. Set the shifter up on the tranny and get it shifting perfectly before installing in the car because you will have little room once it's in. The exhaust hanger will need to be turned around backwards. You will need a front yoke from a 68-70 with Turbo 400. The speedo cable will bolt up and the driveshaft remains stock. That's about it. It's a neat tranny that feels very
strong and precise. The Long shifter is also solid. The Richmond whines a little in the first 4 gears and although it is not as loud as the M22, it is noticeable while cruising at slow speeds with a mostly stock exhaust. Under accelaration the gear whine is very sweet and the closely spaced ratios steps are a lot of fun. You can also drop your rear axle ratio and really make the car more flexible. With the super low 3.28 first gear, you will have all the torque multiplication you need. I'm running the R-5 with a 2.73 axle and really like it.

Flareside

Great info Allan. Thanks! That's exactly what I needed to know. I'll let you guys know if I get the trans.

-Joe

PRNDL

Joe, i will help you with the install !! MJ

1RED1

I've been following the posts on the Richmond 5&6 speeds,seems that most
who have installed them agree that it take more effort to shift then most
4 speeds.Is this just with the Long shifter or does the Richmond shift just
as hard with the Hurst shifter.One more question does the shifting get
easier as the Richmond gets some miles on it

tsw71

It does seem to get a little easier as the miles pile up. I probably only have 2000 miles on this thing so far and it is better. First gear is still a bit tight when it's cold, but once it warms up, it shifts great. Not that it's as easy as my loose and sloppy M20 was, but definitely better than it was when new.
Tom

1RED1

Thanks for the info tsw71,what type of shifter and fluid are you using

Flareside

Mark, you can only help if you buy one to! Come on, aren't you sick of only 4 gears?

-Joe

Flareside

Allen, how did the Long shifter line up with the shifter hole in the console?

Flareside

Gdaina, thanks for the tips. What axle are you running. I have a 3.55, but I doubt I could keep it.

-Joe

tsw71

Jeez, I can't remember what brand/type of gear lube I used. I used the weight that was recommended in the manual that came with the tranny. The shifter is from Long Engineering. The thing lined up as well as the the Comp+ that I had un the Muncie. With the long, there are two possitions that it can be set at depending on which hole are used on the mounting plate. It should be set straight up as opposed to angled back. The lever that came with the shifter was a universal one. It came straight up and was a bit too tall and possitioned too far forward for my comfort. To fix this, I modified the one that came with the Hurst comp+ shifter. It has the same hole pattern as the long, but is narrower where it nests in place on the shift lever mount. By using slightly longer bolts with Nylock nuts, it holds in place perfectly and has not moved or loosened. For the lever itself, I shortened it by about an inch on the top and remachined the threads for the ****. I then heated it with a propane torch and bent it back a little so it would sit perfectly for me.

Tom

stngry63

Hey guys,
I was just jumping over from the C1&C2 forum and saw this post. I have a Richmond 5 in my '63. I am using the Hurst shifter. Due to the fact that the trans could not be lifted any higher in the tight midyear tunnel, the crossmember had to be notched to clear the shifter. Also part of the shifter mount bracket is cut away on the top. I was using a fake reverse lock-out shifter and it was unconfortable to shift. The lever is too short and the ball is to small. That's what she said. :lol: I switched to a short Hurst lever and ball. It is very comfortable. Shifting is much better; but very notchy. It is not that bad. I am using synthetic as recommended by Richmond for better shifting. I am using a 3:08 gear. For performance driving, it is ideal with my cam 219int./229exh. But a 2.73 is tempting for the interstate. Does anybody know where to get the gear new or already in a diff. ?

71coupe

Other stuff to get after that 5 speed:
From Guldstrand

Ecklers was selling a 5 speed shift pattern plate a few years ago,
but I can't find a photo of that.

stngry63

I went to a local trophy shop with a drawing of the shift pattern. They made a nice plate that looks stock on the console.

71coupe

I called Ecklers - they stopped selling it a few years ago. Trophy shop, that's a good idea. Do you have a photo of it?

stngry63

I don't have a picture of the plate pattern. It is made from plastic stock. The same kind that is used for office door name plates. It had a brushed aluminum surface. The pattern cut into it was the black color of the plastic underneath. They have several color combinations to choose. I would imagine that there would be something that would suit a C3 console.

BlueShark29

I have read all of the posts here and thought I would comment. I agree with all that have installed the Richmond 5-speed, as I also did in my '65 Convertible. The engine definitely needs to move to get the tranny in or out. The modifications to the standard trans. crossmember have already been dicussed. I originally tried using the Long Shifter, but in my '65, I did not want to cut into my original tunnel. I found that Eckler's has a Hurst shifter for the Richmond 5-speed that was stated as not needing to modify the tunnel location. I ordered it, and installed it with no problems. The area is very tight, but the stock boot and console plate will bolt back up without modifications. As already stated, the shifting is tight, especailly compared to the loosness of the Muncie, but seems to get easier as it warms up and with usage.
I hope this info is of some help.