EvanD

I've had my 92 coupe for almost two years and it has 315's on the back. It has always had a lot of out of balance type shake. When I put new tires on last year it was better but not perfect with two road force balances to try and get it right. GY GSD3's.... Pulling on the wheels top and botton I get a little play, left and right not as much. Wheel bearings? Bushings? Or just not balanced big wheels? Any recommendations on getting back a good firm ride?

bogus

I would check the ujoints directly. A bad one, IE, all dried up and stiff, would do this.

How many miles on the car?

EvanD

Around 115K, how would I check the U joints for stiffness without taking them out and then I might as well replace them? And While there wheel bearings too?

EvanD

Are there any links to wheel bearing and U joint replacement? Is the U joint that needs replacement the one closest to the diff?

JrRifleCoach

Checking the bearings and u-joints properly requires disassembly. With 115K miles, it is time to replace the lot. Its a challenging task, but not so difficult as to require paying someone.

Strick

Hi Evan,

Here is a site that sells tapered bearings which are much better for our type of driving.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=270157684926

If you are going to do this yourself, let me know as I've done rear wheel bearings before. You just have to have the right tools.

Tom

EvanD

Thanks Tom, I didn't know there were any tapered bearing ones only ball. Double the price of ball though. Other than the T-55 what will I need for U joints and bearings? And a big hammer of course...

Best source for U joints?

Strick

Actually, the price on this site ($139.99) is less than Eckler's AC Delco @ $279.99 each. Don't buy too cheap as they don't last too long.

Other tools, I had to use my 3/4" drive breaking bar to loosen the big nut. You should also be ready to torque that bolt to a valve higher than most torque wrenches go to.

U-joints, I haven't bought any, yet. I'd probably go to the dealer for them unless someone here has a better place to go. I haven't figured out which is best, with Zerks for grease or without.

EvanD

No problem have the socket and torque wrench.... U joints are in both Eklers and MAM. I went to Fun Fest should have bought them then but the shake got worse on the trip...

I don't know if my ebay account still works, I signed up and never used it. The ball bearing ones from that site are supposed to be the best BB ones and they are $69.

Anything else to look at under there? I know the shocks are good.

Strick

How are your bushings, brakes, fluid in the diff? I also suggest a 4 wheel alignment when you are done.

EvanD

Bushings look old but tight, brakes are good diff fluid was changed before Fun Fest. I guess I just need to decide on which bearing BB or TR....

Strick

When I do mine I'll use the taper bearings just because I like to turn.

Da Mail Man

...if you never replaced the bearings or u-joints or know when they were replaced, instead of guessing when the next failure will be, replace all the half-shaft u-joints and bearings all at one tiome and be done with it.....i had a squeak that seemed to be at the LR and instead of guessing if it was the joint or bearing and not knowing the history, i replaced all........your choice, either tear into the rear end again at a later date or do it all now....good luck...

ambaker94

So, how bad or long is it, to do it all? My 94 vibrates at about 65 mph. Can feel it most coming through the gear shift. (6 speed.) No unusual clunks or noises, but it does have 103K on the clock.

If I took it to a repair shop, what kind of bill am I looking at? (Ball park of course.) I agree in that if I am going to pull one, I might as well do it all.

Thanks!

Jonnymac

You need some wheel bearings my 95 did the same thing. I think it calls for 4 or 5 hours of labor @$75 per hour. When I swapped mine out it went OK no major problems any one with basic hand tools(and a good back) can do it.

EvanD

Thanks guys, I have tools and ordered the parts, bearings and a full set of u joints, including the drive shaft in case those need to be done too. I didn't oder the front wheel bearings, they might be next....

EvanD

One side done and even though I could not feel anything wrong with the wheel bearing itself and on Ujoint looked gaulled it is unbelivable how tight the rear end is pulling on the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. I always saw on here a little movement is OK, well it's tight now!

Both sides done and the rear is tight now...

Took a test drive and I think I have some rear tire balance issues. Also now that the rear is tight I can feel the front is loose so I guess front wheel bearings are next. I bought U joints for the drive shaft so that'll have to be done too. And new GSD3's....