phoenix

My new 73 as many of you know has really only two major issues at this point.
First is the braking (no ebrake and poor pedal response) but all new calipers and rotors look good.

Second is the steering/front suspension. The wheel is very loose and the front end jumps around a bit.

My initial idea was to completely rebuild the front end including new front springs/shocks and the front end poly kit from Zip. (All the rubber bushings are trashed)

I don't know yet if the ball joints need to be done, but if I am replacing everything, I will replace them too (in the kit)

The problem is that after starting the cleaning process under the front end, I have several leaks in the power steering system that were plugged by all the junk.

I only have about $5-600 to work with for parts this winter.

Should I take the whole front suspension apart and then deal with rebuilding the steering system and the just reuse the original front springs/idler arm etc... or should I try to do the steering first? Either way the brakes are going to be done.

Thanks for the help. I need a plan before I put her up on the jack next week.

Chris Fowler

Is it safely drivable with the steering/front suspension problem?

If so, I'd probably go after the power steering leak first.

Also, how bad is the leak?

427V8

Well, I think you should replace the A-Arm bushings, springs and ball joints, if they are sloppy...Here's why

The A-Arm bushings are the hardest to replace since EVERYTHING has to be removed to do them.

Springs are the next hardest to replace ( you have to seperate the balljoints )

Ball joints arn't too bad, but if you have the A-Arm off anyway...

Tie rod ends are easy, you can do them anytime.

The leaking steering can probably be fixed with a cheap rebuild kit and maybe a high pressure hose. I feel safety is most important, power steering fluid will not compromise the handeling of you car, so leave it for later

phoenix

The car can be driven with no problems at all, just loose steering... not too bad though.

The leak isn't horrible, but it's there, a small 3 inch puddle in about 24 hours after driving it.

So it sounds like you are recommending to do the springs, a arms and ball joints now. Should I just do the whole suspension as a kit and then worry about the steering later?

Is it easier to get to all the steering parts with the suspension out? Can it be done later once the suspension is back together?

GTR1999

Mike I just sent you mail.
Gary

phoenix

Thanks Gary, I replied :D

Too bad that I missed you this weekend :(

shoptek

My idea of "loose" steering might be different than yours but you might want to adjust the steering gear box.
I took TONS of slack out of my steering with about 3/4 of a turn on the adj. screw. My front end components are far from new, but not worn out either. To me, it feels tight and very responsive.
It is on top of the gear box, just loosen the jam nut, and tighten it a LITTLE at a time and see if that helps.

micks69

Hi, I just redid the entire front end for less than $200 bucks which should leave you plenty(can never have enough ) money to do the rest. The hardest part of the front end job is getting it apart it will go back together in 2-3 hours taking(breaking) apart will test your patience. Good luck!

Dave68

Bad front wheel bearings can also make your front feal queezy. I'd check them as well.

phoenix

Thanks guys,

I think that at minimum I need bushings all around as well as tightening the gear box and fixing the leaks. Since I am going to pull it all apart to do the bushings, I might as well put all new parts in.

I did get this car to work on, learn about and drive. So am looking forward to it :D:D

Kevin_73

My 73 had the same problems as yours when I bought it. Like you I decided that the first priority was to get the suspension and steering working properly.
I found a front end rebuild kit that had all the control arm bushings, 4 ball joints, 4 tie rod ends, and the idler arm. If I remember correctly I paid about $169.00 for it.
I did all of the work myself and it took 3 or 4 (long) nights to complete, that included stripping and painting the control arms.
I also replaced the rag joint at the steering box since the original was almost non-existent.
I didn't replace the springs, but it probably would have been a good idea.
After haivng it aligned the handling was much better, but there was still a lot of play in the steering. I tried adjusting the steering box several times, but it did not help at all and eventually the power steering started leaking more and more.
Earlier this year I bought a new steering box, new pitman arm, all 4 power steering hoses, and a rebuld kit for the PS control valve. It was about a 5 hour job to rebuild the control valve and replace the hoses and steering box.
My steering is nice and tight now. :D

My thinking was to do the work in order of importance for safety first, and then as I could afford the other parts I would replace them. This worked out very well for me, and it sounds like you are leaning towards a similar plan.
Good luck.

terryrudy

Check out Corvettefaq.com. Jim Shea has uploaded a LOT of good steering rebuild articles that should help you in your project.
good luck!
-terry

dladd74roadster

Rebuilding the steering components won't add that much expense to the front-end project. If memory serves, I bought the rebuild kit and hose kit for my power steering from Zip for $50 or $60. That included the rebuild kit for the pump, control valve, and cylinder. The hose kit included all 4 hoses needed. Prior to this, my power steering leaked for 10 years. Haven't had a single drop hit the floor since and it wasn't very hard at all to rebuild the components. I will never buy a rebuilt steering component for my vette again. It is just too easy to do it myself and make sure it is done right.

Just my .02

dl

phoenix

Thanks... GREAT advice :D:D

Is it pretty easy to do all this as a novice?

I'll keep a couple of :cheers: on ice if you guys are ever in town :D