LT-1 identification
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
LT-1 identification
Guys,
Been reading the board now for a few months, and have posted a few times as I search for my first Corvette. It's a little frustrating with so much out there but so little that is really catching my attention. These cars are traded so often I've had to become very skeptical of the seller.
Anyway, I have at least become more narrow in my search. Originally it was anything convertible, but I've ruled out the automatic trans. and could go for a coupe if it is an LT-1... which brings me to my latest concern.
My question: How does one document the LT-1 package without the original engine numbers?
I've come across 2 now that were altered (decked) early in the life of the car (pre-80) with no tank sticker and no documents but seem to have the right equipment. Seems one could easily get burned by a well put together fake. Is it really worth the $10k premium if you can't prove it came from the factory as an LT-1? Or, is knowing the cast dates and verifying all the correct equipment in the right date range good enough?
I want a car I can feel comfortable it is what it is. I don't care if it's the nicest looking car or even if it needs maintenance. I want to know I got what I paid for. I actually prefer a car with original paint that's been driven and well cared for by a limited number of people. So if this means I need documentation I will narrow my search to well documented cars. Otherwise I don't care much for the docs.
Been reading the board now for a few months, and have posted a few times as I search for my first Corvette. It's a little frustrating with so much out there but so little that is really catching my attention. These cars are traded so often I've had to become very skeptical of the seller.
Anyway, I have at least become more narrow in my search. Originally it was anything convertible, but I've ruled out the automatic trans. and could go for a coupe if it is an LT-1... which brings me to my latest concern.
My question: How does one document the LT-1 package without the original engine numbers?
I've come across 2 now that were altered (decked) early in the life of the car (pre-80) with no tank sticker and no documents but seem to have the right equipment. Seems one could easily get burned by a well put together fake. Is it really worth the $10k premium if you can't prove it came from the factory as an LT-1? Or, is knowing the cast dates and verifying all the correct equipment in the right date range good enough?
I want a car I can feel comfortable it is what it is. I don't care if it's the nicest looking car or even if it needs maintenance. I want to know I got what I paid for. I actually prefer a car with original paint that's been driven and well cared for by a limited number of people. So if this means I need documentation I will narrow my search to well documented cars. Otherwise I don't care much for the docs.
#2
Team Owner
If no tank sticker or original purchase info, you have to treat it as a clone. Since you can't prove that it's original....for all practical purposes, it isn't. If you want a "real" factory LT-1, you'll have to have verifying documents; any potential buyer you might sell it too would require them. You should, too. If you want an LT-1 engine, but don't care about the "factory" thing, buy a "clone"; but only pay them for the engine upgrades (not the LT-1 premium price).
#4
Team Owner
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Have you thought about joining a Corvette club in your area? That could help you get to know people and cars. I believe that many if not most really nice cars are sold privately. You could very well find the car you're looking for that way.
Regards,
Alan
Regards,
Alan
#6
Team Owner
#7
Melting Slicks
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Like the above has stated. If no paperwork, then buy a '72 to confirm that the car was built as a LT-1 optioned car. Otherwise you need dealership or factory paperwork to confirm that the Corvette in question was indeed built as an LT-1 optioned 'vette.
#8
Melting Slicks
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I am pretty sure that I could tell an original LT-1 if I had to. And I am also sure with my knowledge I could come close to cloning one. but why? All that work searching for specific parts covering up tell tail signs etc. Just not worth the few thousand bucks difference for all the work.
If you really have one you are seriously interested in employ the services of an expert. NCRS has some I am sure.
Bullshark
Last edited by Bullshark; 09-24-2007 at 11:50 PM.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just found out there is a show at the Doylestown, PA Oktoberfest this weekend. I'll try not to wear out my welcome!
Last edited by gccch; 09-24-2007 at 08:41 PM.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
I agree, but this is a problem that will stay with the car, and grow worse as time goes on. My plan is to buy a car and keep it long term, but one never knows what's to come and there will be a time the car must be sold. At that point the difference should be even greater, and along with it the importance of proving originality.
#11
Melting Slicks
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gccch,
There is a real, documented '71 LT-1 coupe in War Bonnet yellow here in Northern California, that I went and looked at to buy. Very original type car. Original paint, correct original drivetrain and documented with original factory window invoice. Price is around 33K.
There is a real, documented '71 LT-1 coupe in War Bonnet yellow here in Northern California, that I went and looked at to buy. Very original type car. Original paint, correct original drivetrain and documented with original factory window invoice. Price is around 33K.
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
gccch,
There is a real, documented '71 LT-1 coupe in War Bonnet yellow here in Northern California, that I went and looked at to buy. Very original type car. Original paint, correct original drivetrain and documented with original factory window invoice. Price is around 33K.
There is a real, documented '71 LT-1 coupe in War Bonnet yellow here in Northern California, that I went and looked at to buy. Very original type car. Original paint, correct original drivetrain and documented with original factory window invoice. Price is around 33K.
#13
Team Owner
May I ask WHY you want an LT-1? Just curious, mind you. If you must have an original, factory produced LT-1, NO AMOUNT OF PHOTOS, AFFIDAVITS, etc. will ever be adequate proof for you. But you should know that there are devious people out there....and they can make very original looking clones AND they can make very convincing documentation. I'm assuming that it's not just the horsepower; there are lots of ways to accomplish that. If you must have "the real thing", buy a car from an NCRS owner who has shown the car so that NCRS has verified its authenticity. You just can't accept someone's word that it is "original".
#14
Burning Brakes
I wouldn't pay a premium price without documentation. But I think there are probably plenty of nice LT-1's out there without original documentation that are the real deal and should go for a higher price than a base engine car. I just think without the documentation the value wouldn't be as high as a documented one....somewhere in between maybe. I would bring a knowledge NCRS guy to look at the car and look for all the signs of an LT-1 (6500 red line, single fuel line, CGZ suffix code with no evidence of restamp or tampering, etc..). Yeah you can't be 100% sure without the documentation, but then again I suppose documentation could be faked as well. This problem isn't just with LT-1's right, same applies to big blocks? I suppose someone could fake one of these too. If you've done your homework and feel the car is the real deal then I would consider paying a somewhat higher price for the LT-1 or big block for that matter. But if you're talking about paying top dollar then i would hold out for something with documentation.
Last edited by pwsusi; 09-24-2007 at 10:12 PM.
#15
Melting Slicks
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Bryan
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
May I ask WHY you want an LT-1? Just curious, mind you. If you must have an original, factory produced LT-1, NO AMOUNT OF PHOTOS, AFFIDAVITS, etc. will ever be adequate proof for you. But you should know that there are devious people out there....and they can make very original looking clones AND they can make very convincing documentation. I'm assuming that it's not just the horsepower; there are lots of ways to accomplish that. If you must have "the real thing", buy a car from an NCRS owner who has shown the car so that NCRS has verified its authenticity. You just can't accept someone's word that it is "original".
#17
Melting Slicks
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There's something about having one of just a few that is special. For me it brings more pride of ownership - the hunt, the find, and maintaining the history. It's not completely logical, but to me there's something more special knowing it is the real thing. Secondarily I'm concerned that down the road I'll be able to sell it as a true original.
#19
Melting Slicks
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There's something about having one of just a few that is special. For me it brings more pride of ownership - the hunt, the find, and maintaining the history. It's not completely logical, but to me there's something more special knowing it is the real thing. Secondarily I'm concerned that down the road I'll be able to sell it as a true original.
I do have full documentation.