ol,RJ

OK so I'm a little :mad
I just got back home from taking what should have been a nice ride in the 70, to tool around then get a full tank of gas for the winter.
About 15miles from home it started acting up, almost like its outta gas.
managed to coast into a school parking lot (boy was I lucky).
it would fire up and die quickly.
This is the second pertronix ignitor that has failed on me.
the first one :U on me in the middle of Indianapolis ( I-70 and I-65 ) that one cost me a $120.00 tow bill.
This time I was somewhat prepaired. I had placed a set of points/condenser along with tools in the back.
of course I could have used a set of screws for the rotor (had to steal one from the wiper door limit switch, not perfect, but got me home).

So my advice is to trash the Ignitor, it will let you down. Its just a matter of time.
both of mine failed in less than 4000 miles and approx 2.5 years each. heck if thats all the longer they can last then I for one am going back to a points/condenser set up. :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:

dually4wd

I've seen a lot of posts about problems with the pertronix, and I also have to wonder about the quality control on them. I have one, and it seemed to work fine for the short time I used it before tearing my whole car apart, but I think I'll go with the tach drive MSD billet when it all goes back together, and wire in a shift light too. At least you made it home...

tictocdok

measure your coil resistance... a "hot" coil will draw to much current and fry the Ignitor.. I put a one ohm ballast resistor in series with mine and it works great on my drag car.. high rpms and high compression..
they should last for a long time

GTR1999

I've been replacing points for over 20 years now - no problems. cars always fire up pull strong. personal choice I guess :smash:
Gary

Dave68

I was told long ago by my carburator mechanic that out of all the multiple spark discharge boxes he's ever installed, the MSD is by far the most reliable. Once my 6A was installed, I have never had to change points and my plugs would last longer. Idle speed with any cam was smooth and steady. Needless-to-say, I recommend keeping your points and installing an MSD box.

QuickVet

there was a guy at the track today who was having trouble with the same thing :rolleyes: maybe those ignitions arent that great.

ol,RJ

you may be right about the resistor (I'm no electrician) I'm not running any special coil, just a off the shelf job with a condenser hooked on the pos side.
the car did run fine with the ignitor.
I had drove the first one to the NCM (5+ hour drive) and back, plus multiple other 100mile plus trips.
the one thing I want to make everyone aware of is this.

If and when the Igniter goes bad, its toast!!!!!!!! and unless you have a extra one with you, your going to be towing it home. you can't pick one of these up at the local parts store. So carry a spare if your going to continue to use it..
or have all the parts and tools to convert back to points.
ie: points, condenser, wire from points to coil, screws to hold dist. rotor on, and all the small wrenchs/screwdrivers to do the job.

everything else on my vette is 1970 technology and hasn't given a single problem for over 8000 miles. I'm going back to points. at least I can get parts locally then.

tictocdok, I wish you continued success with your unit, but I'd carry a spare if I were you.

Flareside

All the Pertronix aren't bad, just the lobe sensing type, IMO. Relying on that thing to sense the high points of the iron/chrome distributor cam is chancey at best. It works for some, and not for others. Didn't work very well for me. Stick with the magnetic type (original Pertronix or the new Ignitor II).


[Modified by Flareside, 7:30 AM 11/11/2001]

Sigforty

My Ignitor 2 went out just last weekend. My car acted just like you described it "out of gas." I had to swap my points back in to get home. When it finally died I was only about 5 blocks from my house. I think the problem with my unit was not that it fried, but the rivets holding the pickup to the metal base came loose. When I pulled my cap I noticed the pickup (red box) has alot more movement in it then when I originally installed it. I am going to try and contact the company for a replacement or refund.

Mark B.

Tom73

Have had on in my LS4 for several year without any problems.

tom...

BubbaJJ

With all the money you've spent you could have just put in a HEI. All my cars have em.

ol,RJ

flareside,
this one is the magnitic type (has a ring that bolts under rotor).

I have a MSD 6AL on my 86 and its worked flawlessly.
the 1970 vette is mostly restored and I liked the idea of keeping a stock look. I would think that with todays advancements in electronics that these things would last 100K miles, but not for me anyway.
for the $50+ dollars they (ignitor) cost I can buy quite a few sets of points.
I have some friends that have ran them on dune buggy's and they say they don't last for them ether.

quote
"With all the money you've spent you could have just put in a HEI. "

True but with all the work I've done to keep it looking like a NCRS car,,, well I don't think a HEI would fit under the ignition shielding anyway.

I guess I should put in a disclaimer saying that this is my opinion based on the poor life of the "2" Ignitor's that I have had, and the experience's of others that I know of....


[Modified by ol,RJ, 1:55 AM 11/11/2001]

71coupe

A poor frame or engine ground will kill tranisistors. The other thing that will kill them is excessive heat. I've converted an old VW to a magnetic pickup style conversion & haven't had any problems in over 7 years with the same module.
A bought a Mallory Unilite conversion for my Vette in '93. The module lasted up til last year (I put it in my pickup, but forgot to hook up the ground wire)
You should get some info about the Mallory Unilite. It's the only one on the market that uses infra-red optics instead of perminent magnets.
What ever you install - electronic or points, carry a spare :cheers:

Matt Gruber

no problems 2+ years, but after reading this post, i pulled the cap just now.
The magnet ring was rubbing on the module! I set it up myself so i was surprised to see the .010" clearance disappear!
Changed the washers and now have .014"
Thanks for the heads up- ;
check things over(screws tight?) once in a while.
Any black box will blow if it gets too much power; check the resistance of coil/ballast or burn it out.
Funny how if a guy ran points without the ballast resistor and burned up the coil/points, you would call him a bubba; but if he overpowers the module "them eeeeellectrronics aint no good!" :lol:

73Ken73

Most of those ignition systems require a balast resistor. Did you have a ballast resistor on the hot wire.

CF6873

I've been running the Mallory unilite in my 68 for 8 yrs. and it's been running great. Craig

PRNDL

ol,RJ - I have the lobe sesor ignitor in my 68 and it seems to run fine - except that I "ran out of gas" at around 5200 rpm at the track yesterday - This may be an actual fuel issue or it may be the pertronix.

On my installation the rotor remains in place with the original screws. I dont understand why you needed screws for the rotor when you replaced your points. ( I carry a spare set of points in the car just in case) MJ

spokewrench

Was considering one of those, but I changed my mind at the last minute "glad I did after reading this" and went to a junkyard and got two chevy hei's for $40.00 for 2 bought a seperate electric tach, no more problems and it works great! I saved the original points tach drive and just moved the cable out of the way incase I ever want to put it back to stock, but for practicality the hei is the only way to go, mine has hit 5800 rpm without missing a beat.
SPOKE-

redvetracr

RJ,
I have been using the "factory" TI distributor with a MSD box and coil forever, it has never failed me. I have even seen the TI distributor used with a HEI module. If you or anyone else is interested i have a couple of extra TI distributors for sale.They aren`t cheap but for my money they are the best.I might even take a "factory" tach drive distributor in trade. ..redvetracr

ARA427L68

I have had a pertronix lobe sensor on my car for about 2000 miles. No problems, My car fires up almost immediately now compared to a 5-10 second crank time previously. Just in case though, exactly how do the wires go when putting the points back in?