jroutt

I was talking to Jim Gessner ( aka Vette Finder Jim ) last year, a gentleman who many of you know and respect and he suggested that I try a product called Evaporust. It is a clear, non corrosive liquid that you can soak parts in overnight and they will be completely free of rust. Obviously they must be free of grease or anything that will prevent the liquid from coming in direct contact with the rust. This stuff is amazing and is great for those of you who do not have a blaster. Go to the Evaporust website and view the demo that shows the different methods that will allow the use of this product on large items such as a rear end housing. I have used the porduct, it lives up to it's advertisement and is reasonable in price. My seat rails were rusty and it cleaned them as if they had been in a bead blaster. The nice part is being able to put your parts in the container, leave them while you do other things and pull them out sparkling clean the next day. There is no mess to clean up since the liquid evaporates like water. I believe the Co. recommends cleanup with laquer thinner if you intend to paint the parts. ][/B]

I'm Batman

White vinegar will do the same thing. 2 gallons cost $9 at Sam's Club.

al329

What about....
http://www.safestrustremover.com/

Mr D.

Batman, will this also work on aluminum? I have a set of out riggers that are corroded to the point that they will not come apart.

Ron78Z&66Vette

I agree.
That evaporust is good stuff. I've got a tub of it in the garage I've been dumping parts in for the last couple of weeks. I use a wire brush dipped in it to speed things up and for the really heavy stuff.

I'm going to have to try the vinegar thing though. $4.50 a gallon is a helluvalot cheaper than $23!

pchalpin

Revere Products - "Rustaway" - about $40/ Gallon - and worth every penney - pour it, use it, when done put it back in the jug - it's re-usable an infinite ( seems infinite anyway) number of times. Been using the same gallon for over 12 years, and it works as well as the first time I used it.

Plasticman

I use Rust-Mort by SEM. Have been using it for over 20 years. The coating it leaves can be either wiped off prior to it drying/hardening, or left there and painted over.

It is also great for treating bare steel for painting (to give it "tooth" prior to primer application). Treat, and wipe off a few minutes later (before it dries/hardens).

In fact I am using right now (waiting for it to "treat" the steel prior to adding some Bondo (and then paint) to my vehicle lift bottom plate where it was scraped during install).

http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164

Plasticman

wesmigletz

Can muriatic acid be used to degrease and de-rust parts? If so, should it be dilluted? How long should the bolts be soaked? I have several boxes of old bolts, brackets, etc, I'd like to clean before I sort and put them away. TIA Wes

Plasticman

Muriatic Acid is actually a diluted, non pure form of Hydrochloric Acid, and is corrosive to metals (including steel). It can be used for rust removal under controlled conditions (otherwise the part will disappear!), in a process called "pickling".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid

Phosphoric Acid is more used for rust removal, and is the main product in the SEM product I mentioned in a post above (Rust-Mort). And it forms a coating that prevent further rust from forming, and provides a good base for primer/paint.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid

Try the Muriatic Acid and see if it works for you, but you must report the results back on the forum! Recommend trying just a few small (non important) parts for the first go around. Just note the cautions, including the hydrogen gas creation issue! And only use glass or plastic containers. I once put some in an aluminum pan, and found out the hard way how corrosive this stuff is!

Plasticman

gonefishn

The muriatic acid you buy (HCl acid) is actually about 7 molar. Fairly strong but diluted. Be careful what you put in it and watch the your eyes (personnaly I wouldn't use it).

Phosphoric acid is a very good rust convertor and I've been using it for years. Easy and cheap to get. The waste can be diluted ~20x then used as fertilizer (iron and phosphates).

I'm Batman

I have no idea what vinegar would do to aluminum. Maybe try tossing some scraps in a bowl of vinegar and see how it reacts. I do know that it blasts rust right off of steel.

Bill Higginson

great, now my bolts are clean how do we keep the non painted parts from rerusting over time.
is clear spray the best way? or has someone got the answer to my delema. or do we replate then clear?

wesmigletz

Gonefishn, thanks for the input on muriatic acid. I'll give it a shot, but based on what was posted, it seems phosphoric acid may be a better choice. Does anyone know if phosphoric acid will degrease, as well as de-rust parts?

Plasticman, I'll post back my results as soon as I get some.

Thanks again,

Wes

Plasticman

Wes,

NO, it will not degrease to any real extent. Parts should be only rusty, but still free of grease.

Plasticman