snitz

I've been battling the heat monster all year long. I am a newbie to road racing and have been tracking my car weekly. As I get faster and drive harder, my heat issues get tougher to solve.

After 8-10 laps my coolant temps are 253 degrees and I need to pull over to cool down.

My set up: D1SC, forged bottom, meth inj, Dewitts radiator w built in oil cooler, tiger shark front. I have been running 16 lbs of boost and recently lower that to 13 lbs. That didn't impact the temps, but slowed my laps times 1.5 sec/lap(not good). Less low end pull.

Coolant temps on normal highway driving running around 205 degrees.

My tuner and I are reviewing options to get the temps down.

I'm planning to seal up the radiator shroud better with some foil tape to get more air injected into radiator.

We are considering changing out the head unit to a F1 vs. an D1? The idea being that the F1 won't generate as much heat and help the car run cooler. Agree? Any thoughts(pro/con).

R6_C5_CLS55

What water pump are you running (stock, Meziere electric or Evans mechanical)?

* For the track I think the stock mechanical or the Evans will move the most water. The electric will move the same amount all the time as long as the voltage tot the pump is constant (but less than the mechanical units once the engine speed is above 2,000 RPM). Use a 160 degree thremostat.

Since you are supercharged, are you running an overdrive crank balancer (larger than 7.25 inches, like the 8 inch ECS unit made by Innovative West)?

* This will overdrive a mechanical water pump by 10% across the RPM range.

Are you running Redline Water Wetter?

*Run two bottles of Redline Water Wetter with your distilled water.

What mix of coolant and water are you running or are you running straight distilled water?

* Running straight water with two bottles of Redline Water Wetter will get you the best heat transfer and still lubricate your pump and provide some corrosion protection. Remember antifreeze (coolant) is to keep the water from freezing and does not have as good of thremal heat transfer properties as water.

What fans are you running? Factory twins or aftermarket SPAL or another?

* SPAL makes aftermarket 12 inch fans that flow twice the CFM that the factory fans flow.

Are you running a front-mounted intercooler or the side mount intercoolers.

* A front mounted intercooler blocks the radiator and the air that hits the radiator is pre-heated by removing heat from the air in the intercooler before it gets to the radiator. Properly sized side-mounted intercoolers are better than a front mount for road racing (as long as your IATs are comparable and you don't have to reduce timing advance / power). Two good 4 inch thick side mounted intercoolers with fans would be a good solution.

I don't believe the F1 will generate any less heat than the D1, but you should call ATI and ask them.

Tony @ MPH

I think your heat issues are more cooling system related than they are blower related. Yes, charge air temp impacts cooling, but not nearly as much as an improperly sealed shroud/radiator.

Also, for road racing a monster like that, I really think you need to go with an external engine oil cooler. The difference in cooling capability I saw between an integrated oil cooler and an external oil cooler was astounding. Your Dewitt's radiator is more than fine (it's the only radiator I would personally run) but the best oil cooling will come from an external cooler.

Take advantage of that Tiger Shark front end and stuff an oil cooler towards the front of your car, seal up your shroud, and I am sure you'll do fine. You can easily fit an oil cooler up front that is 4-6x the size of the cooler in your radiator now, so you'll keep your oil much cooler and also not heat up your coolant with your oil temps.

Skunkworks

Jumping from a D1 to say F1R will without a doubt put a bigger strain on IC, which intern makes cooling engine even worse. ATI says F1R should be used for race purposes (not road course) quarter mile.

Now the F1A does have more diffusion (pressure recovery) or the space between impeller tip to scroll then both D1 and F1R. This should yield better efficiency, but I have no way of confirming this as very little real world numbers are published in any form.

Mike

Hool97

Fluidyne makes competition style oil coolers. My oil temps even on a road race course stay below 220-230. They are very effective and can be set up with a separate fan with or without a thermostat trigger. I used a B&M spal fan and attached it to the cooler. I use a toggle instead of a thermastat relay. The advantage is that I can leave it on even after shutting down the engine.

Hool97

Also in regards to the specific question at 16 # of boost if that is what is needed than a slightly larger blower may help. The F1R is not slightly larger though. ECS uses restrictors to increase midrange torque but still limit upper end boost. That maybe helpful at the expense of a little higher IATs at the top end.

I am running an EWP right now but I am also only using a P1SC right now. When I up grade to the F1R I am going to run a Evans and a EWP from Stewart that is in line and also can be left on post shutting the engine down.

AVB

What happens when you take it down a notch, does it level off or recover? I've learned that getting into 5th will start to drop temps and generally keeping the revs down will keep from having to run that cool-down lap too soon.

It's a blast to have basically unlimited power but when it comes down to it, the less you rely on having to use the power the longer you'll be runnin. What's your coolant level like at the end of the day? Maybe your releasing some of it.

I've wanted to try the evans coolant but haven't quite figured out how to fully drain the system. May want to try that..

Hool97: NA cars run 280 to 300 oil temps.. You'll have to give us more details on keeping her 220.
Arnel

RJW

If you have a FMIC, ditch it

Ditch any oil cooler in rad as well.

Common sense goes a long way...

JMO

snitz

Thanks guys. Very good feedback. Some answers to smart questions:
1. Not sure about my water pump, will find out.
2. I have two side mount intercoolers.
3. Using 1 bottle of redline water wetter. Not sure if I am running straight distilled water or what ratio anti-freeze. Will check.
4. Using 4" pulley w 10% ECS Overdrive fully to generate 16 lbs boost at 6500 rmp.
5. Oil temps max about 265 degrees, the engine overheat light comes on when the coolant gets above 253 degrees.
6. Engine temps drop quickly and recovery rapid after I take a slow lap or pull off track for cool down 2-3 minutes.

Question: If my issues are more related to getting an external oil cooler, how does that relate to coolant temps and FI?

Any further thoughts?

RJW

If you notice how coolant and engine temps relate, you'll find that

1) Start engine, coolant goes up to say 190-200F...oil goes up slowly.

2) After warm up and when you get on it, oil temps climb along with coolant. Coolant temps driveup the oil temps

3) Oil temps go higher than coolant and then they driveup coolant temps even more.

So having an oil cooler as part of the coolant cooler may not be the best idea as far as efficiency goes.

I use an external aircraft heat exchanger in my brake duct opening (duct still in tact)

I have done some rather harsh testing of before and after. It mostly consisted of 1st and 2nd gear 5k plus on cruise and/or acceleration, until either something bordered on overheating or it didn't. (I am talking about 5 minutes straight with engine NEVER below 5k)

I am running twin heat exchangers (also aircraft quality, but with an air water setup) and in 1st gear at well over 5k, there really isn't a lot of air flow over anything, yet my before/after results were amazingly different.

How are your IAT's

jmo

rjw

tlaselva

Not being a smarta$$, but seriously, if your going to roadrace, ditch the blower, and build a N/A setup.

0Slowhawk

I was thinking the same thing.I'm very surprised the car has lasted past 1 session.

Do a bigger motor with alot less boost(8lbs tops).This will take alot of strain offthe oil since it will be more midrange power.Then make sure all the air gets to the radiator.

snitz

Funny you should mention NA. Excellent point.

I am building a track car now for next season which will be 100% NA. Unfortunately, there's no way to get it ready before our season ends in Chicago area.

I'm looking to get my present car operating so I can enjoy the remaining season(track closes Nov 1st).

snitz

Thanks. Sounds like an smartly installed external oil cooler is smart, not huge $$ and is a winner, even if this car eventually isn't going to see a ton of track time next season, when my track car project is finished.

snitz

I checked out their website. They have several models, including one direct fit designed for vettes. It's 18 x 12 x 1 ". They have others that aren't as high and are deeper. If I place up near the front in the tiger shark opening, how do I install without blocking air flow to radiator? Any suggestions?

MIKE-C5

Pakisho

This is the big power flared fender C5 thats on the EPP website, right?

Are you spraying alky on the roadcourse? If not, I would. I do, and I like it.

An external oil cooler would go a long way towards helping.

snitz

Yes, that's mine on the EPP website. I do use meth at the track.

Sounds like I'm going to be jumping on the external oil cooler ASAp!

snitz

Thanks to everyone for advice. New Fluidyne oil cooler arrives tomorrow.

Will be spending the day at EPP (Weds). We will install the new oil cooler,
run distilled water in the radiator with two bottles of water wetter and then carefully seal up an air openings in the radiator shroud.

Then, will keep fingers crossed and head out to the track!

RJW

Cool Beans

Be sure to let us know how it works out...



rjw