65 vette dude

I'm restoring my cluster and want to put a 2 amp fuse on my ammeter. It seems like everybody puts this fuse right on the back of the gauge. This doesn't seem like the easiest place to get to if you have to replace a blown fuse. My question is, could the fuse be placed somewhere else,like at the horn relay? Also I just bought ten 1817 dash light bulbs. Does anybody know how many amps they draw and how much candle power they have? I'm using 9 for gauge illumination and two 1816 for the turn signals. If anybody is using the 1817 bulbs,what amp fuse are you using? Thanks in advance.....Gary

crw41

Can't help you with the bulbs.

Putting a fuse on the black/white wire at the horn relay is much easier and will acomplish the same thing.

66BlkBB

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This is the way I did it on my car. You only have to unwrap a short area on the wiring to install the fuse holder and then retape.

Steve

jschuepb

I'm putting my gauge cluster back together with new ammeter (well it works with light bulb trick) and would like to know if you have any pictures or maybe a better description on how to put in a fuse?
Thanks,
Jon
ps I am never pulling my gauge cluster again...well I hope

62Jeff

Here's the fuse installed on my 65. Notice that I just removed one of the wires from the Amp Gauge wire connector, connected it to the end of a replaceable 2 amp fuse holder, put a female terminal on the other end of the fuse holder, and put that female terminal back into the Amp Gauge wire connector. (Have no fear, that's only thin surface rust up there on the birdcage)


Here's the assembly showing the female terminal I added to the fuse holder

jschuepb

A picture is worth a thousand words, this explains exactly why my ammeter was blown the capicator was not even hooked up.
Thanks Jeff !
I will be printing this one out and putting in the inline fuse tonight!

magicv8

Actually, if that capacitor shorts out, it will fry your Battery meter.

PS put the fuse where ever, but if the line between the fuse and the battery meter shorts to ground the Battery meter will be fried. The longer the wire between the fuse and the meter, the greater the chance of a problem in the future.

The c2 Battery meter has 12volts on both leads all the time. With a fuse at the horn relay, a short at or to the bulkhead or under the dash will allow the wire from the solenoid to fry the Battery meter.

jtranger

Do you need an ammeter capacitor? Mine is missing. Thanks

jschuepb

I do not care if I have to put 3 fuses in line with each of these so long as I do not have to pull my cluster again.
What is the best way to resolve this issue?
Update I ordered a new wiring harness today since I have the entire dash out and i'm still worried i'm going to blow ammeter's. I will try the fuse trick but I found this interesting thread on just replacing it with galvanometer listed in this thread http://www.corvetteforum.net/classic...e/index5.shtml
There is so much great info here!
Thanks and will let ya know how a full harness install goes.
Jon

crw41

I believe that capacitor is to suppress electrical noise in the radio.

As such, you may not "need" it.

Wait for others to chime in.

magicv8

No (chiming in)

65 vette dude

yes,the capacitor on the ammeter is to help with radio noise and as far as I know,has nothing to do with the gauge operation. I have heard other forum members say their radio works fine without the capacitor.

65 vette dude

I'm certainly not an electrical expert,but I'm confused. If what you say is true ,and I have no reason to doubt you that it isn't,it seems to me since both wires going to the gauge have 12 volts, then both wires need a fuse at the gauge. I mean suppose the other wire that is not fused that goes to the starter solenoid becomes shorted hard to ground under the dash somewhere,would that fuse on the other wire that goes to the horn relay save the gauge? Excuse my stupidity.Like I said,I'm not an electrical wizard.