Paul L

In the attached diagram from the 1967 Chassis Manual there are basically three wires leading to the front park/turn lamps. The lamps themselves have three wires as well, interestingly with different colours. For the wires leading to the lamps, what colours would be turn, park, and ground respectively?

I believe there is a typo for the left lamp: it should be "L.H. park & dir. sig. lamp" NOT "dir. sig. & dir. sig. lamp".

JohnZ

In the forward lamp harness leading to the parking lamp connectors, black is ground, purple is parking lamps, dark blue is right turn signal, and light blue is left turn signal.

Paul L

Thank you John!

Another Q. for all. Is there an ignition-switched, terminal on the right side of the fusebox? I see ACC and Power Windows but can't read the rest. And some male spades are not there. There seems to be a choice of four. I do not have A/C. I'm looking for a protected 15-amp minimum source.

vetsvette2002

The power windows should be hot during ignition ON only, the window should be operable with the key OFF

Don

Paul L

Don,
The owner's manual says the power windows can be operated in the ACC and ON ignition key positions. Are you saying the power windows are hot in the OFF position? I do not have power windows; I am just looking for a switched source of 12V. I already have an electric choke on the ballast resistor so that is not an option.

Paul L

Let me come at this from another direction. Is the BAT terminal on the alternator an ignition-switched source of 12 Volts?

Hitch

Paul what exactly are you trying to do?

Paul L

Dave,
I am adding daytime running lights (DRLs) to my 1967. See the on-line instructions on this site for DRL-1.

http://webelectricproducts.com/

Hitch

Paul you can use the Power window plug as it a constant 12vdc IIRC. The positive lug of the alternator should be hot constant also. I think I understand why you were looking at the parking light circuit. What if you use the parking light circuit to power a relay that is being supplied power from the alternator lug. Use an inline fuse from the alt to your relay. That's just how I'd do it though, I'm sure that there will be other suggestions. Dave

Paul L

Dave,
You've lost me. What is a power window plug? And why would a relay be necessary if I hook up to the BAT on the alternator? They are two C3 owners in our Club who have done this conversion and they used an IGN feed in the fusebox. I don't have one?? I can say that on the Club event last Sunday a 1980 was behind me on the highway at 70mph and the DRLs on the front turn filaments were pretty impressive in the rear-view mirror. It's a safety thing and a minor mod.

We have a lot of two-lane highways here where the speed limit is completely unrealistic at 80kph (50mph). People tend to do 100kph (62mph) but there is a lot of improper passing in slower areas. The Corvette is low profile and I want more visibility to oncoming traffic. We know that one accident, even minor, and the Corvette is gone for a year. At highway speeds it may be forever. The recent pics of that 1963 red convertible in an in-town accident with a Tahoe really shocked me. The driver's side front wheel was pushed way back indicating serious frame damage. So for $39 plus shipping and odds-and-ends I thought I would try the mod. No real harm done if it does not work.

About 15 years ago in my 1979 I was on a cruise with the Wife on one of those highways. I looked ahead to see a car coming at me in the wrong lane: direct front end hit possible. I hit the binders and the gravel shoulder doing a 180* in the process. He/she flew by with a whisker of clearance. I literally shook for 10 minutes before getting back on the road and immediately went home. I subsequently installed the Hella 1500 DRLs seen in this pic. They are behind the grilles but very bright.

Some may believe such mods are sacrilege in terms of originality but as a person who drives, I really don't care. It's my car and my life.

vetsvette2002

No, that was a typo. They should NOTwork in the key OFF position.

Don

Hitch

Paul my recommendation was to have two relays to power the lights you wish to install. I would provide power to the relays that would feed the lights from the alternator lug. The turn on for the relay could be the parking light circuit. Maybe I'm not being descriptive enough, sometimes I know what I mean but someone else might not.. Dave

Howy

Paul,do you have an automotive test light?

If you do,ground your test light on the bolt that holds the column and touch the end of your test light to the power window terminal in the fuse box.The test light should not light when the key is off and then when you turn the key on it should light.If this is your case then use that terminal.
I looked at those instructions and would suggest that you not use quick-connectors but solder your connections.
Looks like a pretty easy way to get drl's.

Howy

bweaver999

Might be cleaner to power the lights from the reverse light circuit, it's already under the hood. The reason for a relay is the lights may draw more current than available from your connection. A relay permits a heavy wire from say the horn and a light wire to turn them on.

Howy

The module acts as his relay,had he not purchased that module he could have put drl's with 2 relays.

Paul L

Unfortunately I am not familiar with relays. I have sent the wiring diagrams and the pic of the fusebox to the manufacturer for additional advice.

Paul L

Where is the back-up light circuit under the hood? The BAT on the alternator is hot with ignition off.

I guess one option is the 12V bottom terminal of the ballast resistor but I already have the Edelbrock electric choke there. Adding the lights might overload that circuit.

bweaver999

Should be the pink and green wires coming out about where the tach cable goes inside. There should be a connector behind the distributor that goes down to the reverse switch.

About relays:
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

Basically a headlight will draw a bit of current so you need a pretty beefy wire. The main headlight wire is 12 gauge under the dash to the circuit breaker. The backup light wires are 18 gauge, may not be enough to power the driving lamps. A relay is basically a remote automatic switch, power applied to the coil closes the switch. The coil draws very little current so it could be attached to the reverse switch power. The other side of the relay would need a fused 12GA wire to power the driving lamps.

Some have added relays to their headlights to make them brighter. The power to the headlights comes under the dash though several connectors before reaching the headlights. I checked mine, under battery at 12.5 volts, I get about 10.5 volts at the headlight. Placing a relay at the bucket connector would allow me to pull power from the horn relay (should be the full 12.5 volts). That way, when the power arrives at the bucket for the headlight to come on, it actually just turns on the relay which feeds into the bucket. Hopefully, this has not confused you.

In thinking about it, a relay from the ballast resistor may be a better alternative. I seem to recall that when cranking the starter, the ballast resistor is bypassed to supply full current to the coil. I have not checked but hopefully this would bypass the ballast or turn off the power. My theory here is, you only want the driving lights on when the ignition is on, you don't want them on when cranking the starter. Could cause problems starting if the battery is weak. The relay should not draw much current but yes you may have an issue with the choke there also.

Let us know what you work out on this, does sound like a good safety idea.

Paul L

That's very useful information. My sincere thanks. I will not have the unit until next week but I will report back if it works.

BTW, with ignition OFF; no key in ignition:
-Alternator BAT is constant hot
-Horn relay is constant hot
-Fuse box Power Window male spades (2) are constant hot; I do not have power windows
-Horn relay is constant hot

I am beginning to realize why I have a battery disconnect. That is a lot of wiring with a constant on and ignition off.

Howy

Are the 2 other terminals in your fuse box hot at all times?