Transmission stuck in 2nd gear
#1
Transmission stuck in 2nd gear - Update
The transmission (M-20) on my '65 stuck in second gear this weekend. I was able to limp it home, but it still won't budge. What could cause this and anybody have a possible quick solution or do I need to pull the whole unit out and start from there? Assuming the worst, if I need to do a complete re-build, will any Muncie M-20 work as a temporary replacement? Thanks in advance for the help. {Problem Solved - See Update at end of this thread}
Last edited by 65Corvette; 05-14-2007 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Update
#2
Drifting
The transmission (M-20) on my '65 stuck in second gear this weekend. I was able to limp it home, but it still won't budge. What could cause this and anybody have a possible quick solution or do I need to pull the whole unit out and start from there? Assuming the worst, if I need to do a complete re-build, will any Muncie M-20 work as a temporary replacement? Thanks in advance for the help.
#3
Instructor
My just rebuilt M21 did the same thing last night! I'm hoping it's just the shifter. I plan on pulling the linkage off and hopefully I can get the thing in neutral and reinstall the linkage. It was shifting fine until I made a lazy shift to third after a little WFO 1-2 and it locked up. My shifter is a Hurst Competition Plus.
Last edited by Auto5; 05-08-2007 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Add shifter type
#5
Cartoon Character
Member Since: Jun 2006
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I had this problem and it is a worn out shifter. Jack up the car and get a rubber mallet. Go under the trans and you will see three tabs attached to levers. Tap the actuators with the mallet until the front one is pointed forward and the other two toward the rear of the car. It will be in neutral and you can shift it , but not for long. Repeat as neccessary... Replace the shifter. I had a Hurst and went back to the original, not as notchy and I am not a drag racer..
#6
Seems like nine out of ten times its just sloppy linkage. Some are worn out and can be tightened up with new parts or you can replace the whole shifter assembly. Other times they are just out of adjustment or have mixed up hardware.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#7
It's probably 2 lobes stuck on the shifter.
There is a single nut to loosen down below to free up the shifter arms. it's located on the driver's side.
Loosen the nut, free the bind, re-tighten, and hopefully you should be good to go.
Been there, done that.
There is a single nut to loosen down below to free up the shifter arms. it's located on the driver's side.
Loosen the nut, free the bind, re-tighten, and hopefully you should be good to go.
Been there, done that.
#8
Safety Car
I had same situation on my 66, & severe shifter rattle , got rid of muncie shift assembly........... went with new Hurst with look a like lever ..........Wow >> shifts smooth & positive , no rattle ....
you cant visually tell the Hurst from the original, it was a good move & worked for me. the Dog Woof
you cant visually tell the Hurst from the original, it was a good move & worked for me. the Dog Woof
#10
Melting Slicks
I agree. Very common problem if the linkage is not adjusted correctly. You can manually shift the transmission back out of 2nd gear from below just by manually moving the lever mounted on the transmission side cover. That should put it back in neutral and reindex the shifter.
#11
Fixed - at least for now.
Finally got a chance to get under the car this weekend.
Unhooked the shifter arms, clicked the transmission back into neutral, lubed the shifter lobes a little and hooked everything back up. Everything worked perfectly cruising around on Sunday. Thanks for all the help guys, I'm back on the road again with a Hurst Comp Plus on order in case it happens again.
Unhooked the shifter arms, clicked the transmission back into neutral, lubed the shifter lobes a little and hooked everything back up. Everything worked perfectly cruising around on Sunday. Thanks for all the help guys, I'm back on the road again with a Hurst Comp Plus on order in case it happens again.
#12
Melting Slicks
Glad you are back in business. Before you spend the money on the Hurst though, I'd also be sure the linkage is properly adjusted (Critter1's suggestion). Depending on shifter, there is either a pin or a small block (I made mine from hardware store aluminum) to insert and then adjust the rods. Details are in the shop manual.
#13
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Dec 2002
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Mine just stuck in first today. Are the shifter re-build kits with while for a stock shifter? Saw this on Ecklers:
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...2&dept_id=1875
Prefer to keep the stock shifter, what else can be done to tighten things back up?
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...2&dept_id=1875
Prefer to keep the stock shifter, what else can be done to tighten things back up?
#14
Team Owner
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Use that kit and rebuild the shifter. There just happens to be a photo-illustrated step-by-step tech article on rebuilding the stock shifter (with that kit) in next month's (January '08) issue of "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine.
#15
stuck
Finally got a chance to get under the car this weekend.
Unhooked the shifter arms, clicked the transmission back into neutral, lubed the shifter lobes a little and hooked everything back up. Everything worked perfectly cruising around on Sunday. Thanks for all the help guys, I'm back on the road again with a Hurst Comp Plus on order in case it happens again.
Unhooked the shifter arms, clicked the transmission back into neutral, lubed the shifter lobes a little and hooked everything back up. Everything worked perfectly cruising around on Sunday. Thanks for all the help guys, I'm back on the road again with a Hurst Comp Plus on order in case it happens again.
#16
Burning Brakes
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I'll be looking for that issue. Remember unsticking my 66 a few times. Somehow it was easier when I was 20 something. A few pounds lighter in those days probably helped as well. Could not get it to budge today, jacked it up tonight, got under it and quickly back in action.