John S 1961

My new garage is in the rough phase, so I am ready to do the electrical rough in.
What kind of wiring is normally used for a lift, overhead?, cut the concrete and run under the slab?. I am assuming a good lift takes 220V Is that true?

67vetteal

Hi John, You'll need to tell us what Lift you have or will purchase. Manufacturer will list required service line in the installation manual. You will be able to install service line at a later date. A 220V/50 Amp. is probably way over needs but is also handy for other Apps. (Comp., Welder etc.). Al W.

Plasticman

John,

I installed my lift in "new construction", but I take the blame for the layout, since we designed the home and garage. We were dealing with typical Florida concrete block construction, and all the wiring had to be in place before the stucco was applied. Yes, we could of run conduit after the fact, but with planning we did not have to. Not that we did not make mistakes elsewhere!

We mounted the lift pretty close to the wall, so I was able to mount the lift power control unit on the wall, right next to the 30 Amp/230 Volt power outlet (that I had allocated for the lift). This lift had the bracket for mounting the power unit on the steel lift "vertical", but it would of spaced the lift further away from the wall than I wanted. Also, moving the power control unit forward allows me to keep a good eye on the vehicle as it is being lifted (and out of harm's way if something does occur).



Plasticman

nvr-enuf

The ideal location for a lift is next to a wall that way you can have one post pretty close to the wall and still allows the door to open in order to get in an out. I would suggest running a 220V 30 amp outlet box about 6 feet off the ground and where you think the lift post will end up. Typically the hydraulic pump / motor is located on the passenger side post of the lift.

My honest opinion is that the Giro Lift is the best lift out there as well as one of the only ones that I know of that have an engine I beam option for pulling motors. We have had this lift for several years and it is absolutely been the best money ever spent.

Just my two cents


SAS

JoesC5

I have two 4post lifts, each with 120 volt hyd power pak. They are both plugged into the duplex receptacle that is ceiling mounted for the garage door opener, which is a 15 amp circuit. I don't operate both lifts at the same time nor do I operate them at the same time I'm operating the garage door, so I've never tripped the breaker. Lift time is ~ 60 seconds. You might gain 10-15 seconds with a 220 volt power unit. In my opinion, the 120 volt unit will get the job done without the expense of running another circuit just for the lift(s). In the grand scheme of things, what's 10-15 seconds each time you raise the lift.
PS-- the time to lower the lift is the same for either voltage.

GCD1962

Lift in my barn is 120 volt, on a 15 amp circuit. Not a single problem, just don't run compressor and lift at same time.

JohnZ

My Cytech Double-Park has a 120V power unit, and I just run its cord a few feet to a duplex wall outlet; if I roll it outdoors, I just use an extension cord. If it's hard-wired, you can't move the lift.

timbo79

Mine is on the back wall by the post about 6 1/2 feet up. No one can mess with it and you can still move the lift sice it is NOT hard wired.

You really want a 220V 30 amp dedicated. I actually have a dedicated on for my compressor as well (6 HP)

knight37128

You must not work on your wheels/tires/brakes.

Move the lift off the wall two-three feet so you can work on the side of your car. The reason why you wanted a lift to begin with.

Come from overhead with your power. No cord to trip over.

Plasticman

On a frame lift, being close to the wall is not a problem! I have done several brake and suspension projects, including a C1 leaf spring replacement today, and not had an issue with being cramped by the wall.

Depends on the type of lift he is installing.

Plasticman

1BAD-LS1

My Super Lift www.superlifts.com is a four post and works off my standard 110v 15amp breaker with no problems

ghostrider20

I am just finishing my new home construction. I wired my garage with a " electrical sub panel" or "sub service panel". I ran a 2 inch piece of conduit up the center of it, and did not run any wires in it. The conduit runs through the wall up to the cieling and into the attic, This way if I forget something or want to add something down the road, I can run the Romex across the attic to wherever I want, and just run the wire down the conduit to the service panel (breaker box). You can run 220 to any double duplex box, and wire it for either 110 or 220. If you want 220, just pull the outlets out, grab the other wire, and install the 220 outlet. I have 4 locations for 220, but they are wired for 110 at this point. I ran a couple of 110 30 amp circuits to the outside outlets as well as 110 20A. If I want, all I have to do is pull the 110/20
outlet out, and grab the 110/30A wire and intall that outlet. This saves you from being outlet heavy or having multiple 220 outlets that you never use. In the city limits here in Sioux Falls, every garage outlet must be on a GFCI outlet. You can save some money by putting just 1 GFCI outlet on the load side of each circuit.

Here are some pics.

knight37128

Until you want to walk around the lift.

Plasticman

Don't quite understand. I can walk between the vehicle and lift (on either side), or under it (if it is up). I don't have to walk around the lift at all. And it does not intrude into the next bay at all. Try it, you might just like it.

Plasticman

knight37128

When the car is up half-way working on brakes, what do you do? Walk around the other side? I don't want to have to lift the car up every time I want to get to the front. Shortest distance with air-hose, tools, parts, and etc.

I planed ahead and built my garage wide.

I was just trying to give my opinion of the ideal placement for a lift.

ricks327

We have had seven lifts for 10 years and have used heavy duty extension cords to power the units with no problems.

toddalin

I have a 220V Lift Masters "clear floor" truck unit with an overhead bar over 12 feet in the air. I had the garage built with 12-1/2' to the rafters and the conduit for the lift runs along the rafters. The power cord actually runs up one arm and connects at the plug box in the rafters above. Because the rafters are over 12 feet up, the County did not require me to box in the ceiling or run the romex in conduit as they would have for a lower ceiling.

nvr-enuf

My lift location is very practical and works excellent for brakes, suspension, engine removals, etc. I have a two post lift for a reason, I work on cars. I have close to 3 feet from the car to the wall, what more do I need?, maybe it depends on the width of the person working on the car. Where I live, we are limited to garage footage, less than 1000 Ft^2. With several cars, we can not afford place a lift such that it eliminates half a car stall.

I would suggest having the depth of the garage to be 26 to 30 deep inside since it is very useful to have a work bench (for doing brakes) in front of the car. Also, when the car is in the air, you can walk under the lift arms quite easily.

JohnFromVentura

Most lifts are available in both 110 & 220 volt versions. I have a CyTech 4 post and I seem to remember that the 220 volt versions was about 10 seconds faster. 10 seconds is a long time if you have ever waited while raising your car.

Road machine

My Bend Pack unit came with a 220volt power hydraulic unit standard or I could have gotten 110 for the same price or 3 phase as an added cost option. I stayed with the 220 as I am building a new garage and don't want to extend the 3 phase into the new garage yet (building inspectors). I ran my power through the attic to a box just above the post that holds the hydraulic pump. From the box I ran a rubber cord into a strain relief on the pump motor. I was then able to wire tie my air hose to that rubber cord so that it makes on nice neat package. I definitely recomend the 220 over the 110 as the speed is greatly increased and if you can swing the 3 phase thats even faster and more effecient. The air on the bend pack is used to release the safety locks.