jsavage

I am having difficulties with my Carter carburetor and am thinking of replacing it with either an Edelbrock or Holley. What would be the correct CFM for a replacement carburetor?

327 250hp manual transmission

LB66383

In my opinion, your best bet would be a 600 cfm Edelbrock. It should bolt right in place and require little or no tinkering to run right. Choke configuration is up to you -- either manual or electric.

rene-paul

Please let us know the current manifold and air cleaner you are using. If it is the original cast iron wcfb manifold you may have mounting problems with a different carb. An adapter may cause interference with the hood.
IMHO on a 250 hp stock manifold the wcfb is the carb to use. These carbs should work ok with a decent rebuild. The choke is the weak link.
Describe your carb problems and maybe we can help.
brgds
rene

Nowhere Man

why not have the old one rebuilt. it worked for all thoes years why repace it now. it prolly is just dirty.

JohnZ

Nothing but a Carter WCFB will fit on your intake manifold; it's a pretty simple carburetor, and a rebuild kit may bring it around. For a first-class rebuild, call Bob Kunz at (314) 845-2566. The WCFB is 390 CFM.

jsavage

After warm up and running up to 30 minutes...upon shutting off the engine will bog down and act like it it flooded. Once I get through that initial problem and it seems to clear up it runs fine. But it will do the same thing the next time

rene-paul

Start with a good visual insp of the carb. Do you know the carbs history? If it looks ok, [not grimey/leaking fuel from the airhorn/bowl] start your trouble shooting by locking the choke open, .020 safety wire or ty-wrap. Rebalance the idle mix screws check the fuel filter and get the basic tune-up right. Drive it!
Let us know;
rene

hot-toy

If this is a hot restart problem I might know the fix.

ro.co3

The wcfb is a great carb when working properly but if you decide to go with the edelbrock heres my 65 250hp with it . Note the adapter under the carb and the spacer on top to take the original snorkel air cleaner.Good luck with whatever you decide. P.S. mine is the 600cfm. with stock hood.


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buddyepa

My '65 has the aluminum intake from a 350/365 hp engine. The Holley on it when I bought the car 4 years ago did not perform well, so I got a small Demon street carb (525 cfm). It ran like crud with no power and I got zero help from Barry Grant's company. They had told me the little street demon should "work well for my application". So after a year, I got a 600 cfm Edlebrock on sale which dropped right on with no adaptor and was good right out of the box. Runs great too! And i like the manual choke a lot.

I later figured out that the primary jets in the Demon were too small, replaced the 0.058" with 0.070" jets and it presently performs well on a 350 c.i. small block in a '67 Camero.

JDBob62

ro.co3: I have a 62 300HP/Power Glide with the same Edlebrock carb. Am I correct in understanding that the black air cleaner adaptor allows you to use the original air cleaner with the smaller lower carb hole?

If true, where can I get a similar adaptor?

I have the original air clearner in a box but currently have a larger one for the Edleborck.

Thanks

Bob

MikeM

I'm not clear what you're describing here but if it really is flooding, I pull the top lid off the bowls and check the floats. There may be a pinhole in one of them, causing it to flood.

If you do this, make sure you understand how to adjust the metering rods when you go back together.

In addition to the Edelbrock, Holley and AFB carbs mentioned, there's also a Rochester four barrel that was used on pass cars but not Corvettes in the same era. They're a bolt on except for the fuel supply line.

sparky1340

I've been trying to use a drop base air cleaner on my Edelbrock carb/manifold setup. It clears all the way around if I take off the electric choke. But the linkage still hits the base.
Where did you purchase the spacer on top of the carb. That might solve my problem !!
Thanks

uncle427

I too would like to know where to get that adapter if it allows the use of the stock air cleaner with the Edelbrock and the stock hood !

Wondering also why you have not got a choke installed, did it interfere?
Thanks!

Frankie the Fink

I'd just rebuild the Carter as JohnZ and others have said. By the time you modify the linkage and fuel lines...deal with the spacers and air cleaner issues for a non-original carb you could have rebuilt your WCFB 10 times over. You prob just have a sticking float or bad needle valve and a kit is about $28...

sparky1340

It's obviously a summer car so the choke isn't a necessity.
It did not allow the drop air cleaner to fit properly.
I can understand the one fellow saying, "go to stock" and you won't have issues. Unfortunately, I have a newer crate engine, and there's nothing stock about it. I've been using that triangular mesh air cleaner from Edelbrock. It clears everything, but I hate to open my hood in public. If the spacer works, I'm for it !! Hopefully, I'd be able to re-install the electric choke.

JDBob62

In a private e-mail ro.co3 told me that he has sold his car but that the spacers are readibly available at most performance speed shops. I am heading to mine tomorrow with my Edlebrock and bottoms of both stock and after market air cleaners. I'll give an update this weekend on what I find and the difference in overall height from the base of the carb to the top of the aircleaner.

Wish me luck.

Bob

Z51JEFF

I just replaced the 650 Holley on a 283 with a 600 Edelbrock,wish I would have done this the first time out.The only problem with the Edelbrock was a heat soak situation,a 3/8 carb spacer fixed that.Ive got a drop base air cleaner and had to use a 1/2 inch spacer to clear the choke housing.My only complaint with this carb,the instructions for the electric chock install were as vague as it could be,had to watch the DVD to check out shots of the choke.This motor had a Demon carb on it when it was first put in the car,carb was a total piece of $hit.Not only did the air cleaner base interfere with the choke it also came in contact with the fuel line.

sparky1340

Sounds like the ole' heat soak problem. Today's gas has a higher boiling point than years back. Fuel injection cars have no problem. Carb cars have issues. I've installed 3/8" insulating gasket under the carb,closed off the exhaust gas crossover in the intake manifold,and blocked the heat riser in the right exhaust manifold. All the things GM engineers thought necessary for smooth operation.
I'm sure all my mods helped, but hot starts require pedal to the floor and hang till it fires !!!
No Perfect Solution
Sparky

JohnZ

Actually, today's gas has a LOWER boiling point than years back, which is why our carbureted and mechanically-injected cars are more sensitive to fuel percolation.

When you say you "blocked" the heat riser, do you mean you opened it, or closed it?