Leaked Battery Question (Pictures)
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Leaked Battery Question (Pictures)
I was having trouble with my HVAC vents not switching (0410 code) and thought it was probably the vacuum hose I had wrestled with on the back of the intake after replacing my oil pressure sensor (which still works after several months!). I saw a post on here about the vacuum hose going under the battery and leaking from the battery could cause the same kind of vacuum leak. I looked over my battery and noticed it was leaking.
I ordered an Exide Orbital and was going to replace it tonight but ran into the problem of the positive terminal being corroded onto the battery.
Finally got the bugger off and the battery out. Here is the battery:
So I removed the battery tray and surveyed the damage. I don't think it is too bad but I'm hoping to get some opinions. I'm not too mechanically inclined but with good instructions I've been able to change my oil pressure sensor, which I thought was rather involved.
My questions are:
1. Do I need to replace the positive battery cable and how involved is that?
2. What do I need to do as far as clean up?
I've sprayed everything down with battery terminal cleaner to neutralize any acid in the area and scrubbed the effected areas with the cleaner and tooth brush. I was planning on using my dremel and a small wire brush attachment to buff the corroded areas clean and then spray paint black.
Here is a picture of the affected area as taken looking down (with the windshield towards the top and the headlights towards the bottom). It should be noted that the orange color is not rust but rather the terminal cleaner I sprayed on and, at the time of the pictures, had not washed off yet.
Here is a closup of the CPU which appears to be okay:
Tomorrow I hope to remove the wheel panel to get better access to the CPU area.
Thanks!
I ordered an Exide Orbital and was going to replace it tonight but ran into the problem of the positive terminal being corroded onto the battery.
Finally got the bugger off and the battery out. Here is the battery:
So I removed the battery tray and surveyed the damage. I don't think it is too bad but I'm hoping to get some opinions. I'm not too mechanically inclined but with good instructions I've been able to change my oil pressure sensor, which I thought was rather involved.
My questions are:
1. Do I need to replace the positive battery cable and how involved is that?
2. What do I need to do as far as clean up?
I've sprayed everything down with battery terminal cleaner to neutralize any acid in the area and scrubbed the effected areas with the cleaner and tooth brush. I was planning on using my dremel and a small wire brush attachment to buff the corroded areas clean and then spray paint black.
Here is a picture of the affected area as taken looking down (with the windshield towards the top and the headlights towards the bottom). It should be noted that the orange color is not rust but rather the terminal cleaner I sprayed on and, at the time of the pictures, had not washed off yet.
Here is a closup of the CPU which appears to be okay:
Tomorrow I hope to remove the wheel panel to get better access to the CPU area.
Thanks!
Last edited by FASST LN; 04-15-2007 at 12:26 AM. Reason: Clarification
#2
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 2003
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I hate seeing this type of thread. AC Delco should be ashamed. I had a leaker in my son's Camaro but luckily I found it before it got that bad. I hope you can fix the damage easily
It's funny how the guys who defend the AC Delcos in the other battery threads don't post in this type of thread.
Looks like you're tackling it the way I would. Best of luck.
It's funny how the guys who defend the AC Delcos in the other battery threads don't post in this type of thread.
Looks like you're tackling it the way I would. Best of luck.
Last edited by DeeGee; 04-15-2007 at 01:35 AM.
#4
Safety Car
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Despite all the catastrophic problems caused by this, the C6 has exactly the same set up as I understand it, PCM under the battery. I guess they're banking on the newer batteries solving the problem.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Dang. Okay, so how involved is replacing the positive battery cable?
Also, where can I pick one of these up for the Vette, or are they pretty generic and most any auto parts store would have them?
Thanks!!
One last thing, I consider myself lucky with this problem since my CPU seems to be fine. Despite the mess, I don't have any real issues to fix thank goodness.
Also, where can I pick one of these up for the Vette, or are they pretty generic and most any auto parts store would have them?
Thanks!!
One last thing, I consider myself lucky with this problem since my CPU seems to be fine. Despite the mess, I don't have any real issues to fix thank goodness.
#6
Safety Car
where you get a battery cable depends on how fast you need it. probably give Gene Culley a call 610-862-0550 ext 172 (forum vender) & good guy too
I'd mix up some baking soda and water wash everything down untill it stops fizzing then clean up & paint. also check for the vacuum hose down there some times it rotted by the acid it controls the ac & heater motors
I'd mix up some baking soda and water wash everything down untill it stops fizzing then clean up & paint. also check for the vacuum hose down there some times it rotted by the acid it controls the ac & heater motors
#7
Racer
You could just cut off the connector end of the positive cable and splice a new one on. I've done that before (not on a Vette though). Strip the ends back and sort of interlace the cables for an inch or so. Use a propane torch to get it nice and hot and the solder will do a good job. Then of course seal it up (heat shrink tubing being the best, and maybe some good electrical tape as well).
Rick
Rick
#8
Melting Slicks
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The positive cable is connected to the starter solenoid so you have to lift the car to get at it. While you are shopping, you might consider '04 cables which are post mount. I know I would. I hate side mounts!!!
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Uggh. Just looked at Eckler's catalouge and a new positive cable is $85.
I'm going to measure my cables and see if the local NAPA doesn't have a suitable replacment, sans the 'Corvette Tax'. Oh, and thanks for the tip, I will check into getting a post mount cable.
I'm going to measure my cables and see if the local NAPA doesn't have a suitable replacment, sans the 'Corvette Tax'. Oh, and thanks for the tip, I will check into getting a post mount cable.
#11
Melting Slicks
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Fixed it for ya! Optima batteries typically have both side mount and top mount posts on their batteries so you could just change the one but I would change both cables for consistancy. More $$$$$! Good luck!
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yes, my new Exide Orbital does have top and side mounts, but I don't think my existing cables are long enough to reach the top mounts...could be wrong about though.
#14
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Here is your chance to do the big 3. All new wires will not cost you more that $50. Do one wire at a time and replace them all.
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
I replaced the positive cable and all is well. This is my daily driver so I had to get it running by last night.
The little plastic clips that hold the positive and negative cables together as they snake down the side of the engine were infuriating. I ended up using freaking HEDGE CLIPPERS to cut the old cable out because I couldn't unfasten the last plastic clip. Never thought I would use those on a car project!!
Car runs well and all is right in the world. NAPA had a very limited product offering while Advnace Auto (much further from my house) had a lot. I wish I had gone there first.
Thanks for all the help!!
The little plastic clips that hold the positive and negative cables together as they snake down the side of the engine were infuriating. I ended up using freaking HEDGE CLIPPERS to cut the old cable out because I couldn't unfasten the last plastic clip. Never thought I would use those on a car project!!
Car runs well and all is right in the world. NAPA had a very limited product offering while Advnace Auto (much further from my house) had a lot. I wish I had gone there first.
Thanks for all the help!!
#17
Melting Slicks
battery acid leak
Had the same thing with the AC vents not working. Replaced only a little bit of the solid plastic vacuum hose. BIG MISTAKE. After it failed again in a week replaced a LOT of the line to and from the vacuum canister including the one way valve which is right on the vacuum tank.
\USE A COUPLE OF GALLONS of HOT water and baking soda. Pour it ALL OVER the places under the battery and then flush with clean water.
I also painted the bare metal with some black spray paint ifter letting the car dry in the hot sun for a day or so. BIGHANK
\USE A COUPLE OF GALLONS of HOT water and baking soda. Pour it ALL OVER the places under the battery and then flush with clean water.
I also painted the bare metal with some black spray paint ifter letting the car dry in the hot sun for a day or so. BIGHANK
#18
Le Mans Master
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This was my car , my comp on acid
This is your pcm ...on acid
inside of it after cleaning
Had to take the frame down to bare metal to get all the acid it was so bad
paint still wet
even painted the pcm to clean it up
All put back together
This is your pcm ...on acid
inside of it after cleaning
Had to take the frame down to bare metal to get all the acid it was so bad
paint still wet
even painted the pcm to clean it up
All put back together
#20
Melting Slicks
Try a battery pad...
How long have you had this battery ? Do you drive it 12 mths a yr or is it stored in the winter? I just bought a GM Delco battery. As a preventive measure I just ordered a BATTERY PAD to absorb any acid should it leak,, was very inexpensive ( about $4 ) .. check it out ,,,
http://www.dccarcare.com/battery.html
http://www.dccarcare.com/battery.html