C1 wiring harness
04-04-2007, 12:43 PM
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C1 wiring harness
Need some advice. I put in a new wiring harnesses headlights to taillights, from Corvette Central in my 59. Everything worked fine except one parking light/turn signal in front (Had trouble before, didn't change parking light wiring, simple fix), gas gauge (didn't work before) and temp gauge (did work OK). Horn now just clicks (worked before). Ammeter is erratic, either on 0 or runs to the negative side with higher RPM's. Can this be hooked up backwards?
Car starts and runs fine. Nice to have all the dash lights, turn signals, etc.
The temp gauge and the fuel gauge will peg all the way to the right as soon as I turn on the ignition.
Biggest issue, the pink temp wire coming from the ignition burned up the second time I started the car. It burned from the gauge back to the point that is converges with the higher gauge wire to the ignition and same gauge wire that goes to the fuse block. That is the only damage I can find.
I have read some threads about in-line fuses. Does anybody have a list of where these should be and the fuse size for each.
Other advice appreciated.
Car starts and runs fine. Nice to have all the dash lights, turn signals, etc.
The temp gauge and the fuel gauge will peg all the way to the right as soon as I turn on the ignition.
Biggest issue, the pink temp wire coming from the ignition burned up the second time I started the car. It burned from the gauge back to the point that is converges with the higher gauge wire to the ignition and same gauge wire that goes to the fuse block. That is the only damage I can find.
I have read some threads about in-line fuses. Does anybody have a list of where these should be and the fuse size for each.
Other advice appreciated.
04-04-2007, 02:58 PM
#2
Race Director
Make sure you didn't break one of the little plastic insulator bushings that keep the gauge terminals from grounding to the cluster. That will burn a wire real quick.
That may not be your problem, but you need to be aware that those things get brittle and will break when tighting teh nuts down.
Doug
That may not be your problem, but you need to be aware that those things get brittle and will break when tighting teh nuts down.
Doug
04-04-2007, 03:06 PM
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You have confirmed my suspicion. My first thought is the wire grounded out. I believe that is what may have happened. I don't think I have those bushings. Don't recall seeing. I assume I need on all gauges?
Any suggestions for Ammeter?
Any suggestions for Ammeter?
04-04-2007, 03:06 PM
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Also be aware that the factory wiring diagram has the ammeter connections shown backwards; the 12-ga. black main feed wire from the starter solenoid goes on the left side (as viewed from the driver's seat) ammeter terminal, and all the red feeds go on the right side terminal. That's why your ammeter is reading backwards. 
04-04-2007, 03:08 PM
#5
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Quote: "Ammeter is erratic, either on 0 or runs to the negative side with higher RPM's. Can this be hooked up backwards?"
That is your problem here....no doubt. If you follow the drawing in the AIM or the one Lectric Limited provides you will wire it backwards. The drawing in the 59 AIM has it wrong, and Lectric Limited just copied it. Just swap the wires at the gauge and you are good to go.
If the parking light harness doesn't fix that one, try wiring a separate ground from the back of the light figture at the bulb to the ground circuit. A lot of the old fixtures don't carry the ground well. As for the gas gauge, you likely need to replace the gas tank float.. an easy job once the tank is exposed. Most people add an additional (separate) ground here as well....
I can't picture what could possibly be wrong with the engine temp....Could it be a fuse ?
For the horn, verify you have voltage to the horn relay from the fuse block and that when you ground the wire going back to the steering column, the relay changes state to provide voltage to the side going to the horns. If that is working, your horns aren't working.
Hope this helps..
Jon
That is your problem here....no doubt. If you follow the drawing in the AIM or the one Lectric Limited provides you will wire it backwards. The drawing in the 59 AIM has it wrong, and Lectric Limited just copied it. Just swap the wires at the gauge and you are good to go.
If the parking light harness doesn't fix that one, try wiring a separate ground from the back of the light figture at the bulb to the ground circuit. A lot of the old fixtures don't carry the ground well. As for the gas gauge, you likely need to replace the gas tank float.. an easy job once the tank is exposed. Most people add an additional (separate) ground here as well....
I can't picture what could possibly be wrong with the engine temp....Could it be a fuse ?
For the horn, verify you have voltage to the horn relay from the fuse block and that when you ground the wire going back to the steering column, the relay changes state to provide voltage to the side going to the horns. If that is working, your horns aren't working.
Hope this helps..
Jon
04-04-2007, 03:24 PM
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Thanks a lot JohnZ, jafranke:
You would think CC or LL would let you know the wire diagram is backwards for the Ammeter.
I will work on horn further.
I have a sending unit coming for gas tank.
Anybody got suggestions for in line fuses, so I don't mess up again.
Getting a lot of help today. Thanks everybody.
You would think CC or LL would let you know the wire diagram is backwards for the Ammeter.
I will work on horn further.
I have a sending unit coming for gas tank.
Anybody got suggestions for in line fuses, so I don't mess up again.
Getting a lot of help today. Thanks everybody.
04-04-2007, 03:34 PM
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Here are some tips starting with the easy ones:
First be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery before messing with any wires.
Your ammeter is likely wired backwards. There is no harm but the needle points to the left instead of to the right when charging (such as when the lights are on). Flip the black with the paired red ones.
Corvettes are unique from passenger cars as there is no common ground through the metal parts of the car so many separate ground wires are necessary to complete the circuits. This is the cause of many electrical problems so always check this first.
You need to find the reason that that pink wire burned up. That problem with the turn signal/parking light may have caused it to burn since they share the same source through the flasher used to make the lights blink on turn signal actuation. But that pink circuit also supplies power to the gas and temp gauges. The fact that they peg means that you are still supplying positive voltage through the pink wire so be careful because if it touches the wrong spot due to the compromised insulation you could have a major car fire.
Burning up is usually caused by a dead short - something was likely wired wrong because if the short were through either the gauges or the turn lights, the very fine wires in the gauge movements or bulb filament would have burned in an instant sparing the heavier wire from frying. Something else is wrong - don’t give up until you find it.
Once you get the pink wire problem sorted out (don’t forget to check the obvious like the fuse) double check that you have good grounds in key places. There should be a wire (black with white stripe) that mounts from a point on the engine (the LH, rear valve cover screw is typical) that goes through the firewall and connects to a common point where the door courtesy lights and other items come together. If you cannot find that point just run a ground wire from the engine to the bolt that holds the steering column up. Provided there is + current to one of the gauge posts (that 18 gauge thinner pink wire) the temp should now work. You can test it by running a jumper from a good ground to the post that has the dark blue wire from the sending unit attached. The gauge should fully deflect in the other direction. If it doesn’t, flip the wires on the gauge. Be careful not to touch that ground lead to the pink wire side!
The gas gauge should also now work. If it doesn’t, you can test it the same way as the temp gauge by running a ground jumper to the post that has the brown wire from the sending unit. The gauge should deflect in the other direction. If it doesn’t then flip the wires on the gauge posts and see if that cures your pegging problem. If that seems to work then suspect either a bad sending unit in the tank or a bad ground from the tank. First try running a ground, preferably from one of the screws on the float assembly mounted in the tank (if you can get to it under the gas tank cover) to a convenient point on the car chassis. This is not factory but often helps to cure the problem.
Note that the temp and fuel gauges work through different types of variable resistors which complete the respective circuits to ground. The temperature sender gets less restrictive to the flow of current as it warms up therefore causing the needle to deflect proportionate to the flow. The gas gauge is a rheostat which is very much like a volume control ****. Good grounds are absolutely essential for these to work correctly.
The horn problem may also be due to a poor ground. The horns themselves are grounded so double check that one of the two black wires coming off of the horns goes to a ground point, typically a shared connection with the headlights. The other black wires (one from each horn) should go to the horn relay mounted on the LH firewall by the radiator overflow tank. The clicking is a good sign meaning that the tan wire from the horn button is connected to the relay but what you hear may be that relay clicking, not the horns. This indicates that current is either not flowing to the horns, or the circuit is not completed from a poor ground, or the wires are hooked up wrong on the relay. The wire order should be black (closest to the front of the car), red then tan.
Putting fuses in line are a good insurance policy. Of course they are not NCRS correct but it sure beats a melted car. The best place to put one fuse that will protect virtually everything is between the heavy lug on the starter where the battery cable connects and the black 12 gauge (relatively thick) wire that comes off of that lug. It works its way up through the firewall to the back of the ammeter. This single line powers everything in the car except for spinning the starter motor. Buy a good blade type in line fuse holder (with a weather proof snap lid) and put it between that wire and the starter post. Or for slightly less protection put it between that same black line and the ammeter post. This protects everything in the car except for that length of wire between the starter and the fuse but it is a lot more convenient to get to (under the dash) and is out of the weather. A 30 amp fuse should be enough (that is the generator output rating) but you can go to 40 amps if you wish with no problems. The intent of that fuse is to protect against dead-short fires so a few amps higher will not be a problem; the fuse will blow just as quickly. And be sure to carry spares as if that blows you will absolutely be dead in the water. But then again if it blows you might have other things to worry about since it never should unless another short is underway.
And if you do not have a wiring diagram you might want to purchase one through many sources. Or write to me and I will send you a color version that I have as a jpeg.
Good luck! Mike
First be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery before messing with any wires.
Your ammeter is likely wired backwards. There is no harm but the needle points to the left instead of to the right when charging (such as when the lights are on). Flip the black with the paired red ones.
Corvettes are unique from passenger cars as there is no common ground through the metal parts of the car so many separate ground wires are necessary to complete the circuits. This is the cause of many electrical problems so always check this first.
You need to find the reason that that pink wire burned up. That problem with the turn signal/parking light may have caused it to burn since they share the same source through the flasher used to make the lights blink on turn signal actuation. But that pink circuit also supplies power to the gas and temp gauges. The fact that they peg means that you are still supplying positive voltage through the pink wire so be careful because if it touches the wrong spot due to the compromised insulation you could have a major car fire.
Burning up is usually caused by a dead short - something was likely wired wrong because if the short were through either the gauges or the turn lights, the very fine wires in the gauge movements or bulb filament would have burned in an instant sparing the heavier wire from frying. Something else is wrong - don’t give up until you find it.
Once you get the pink wire problem sorted out (don’t forget to check the obvious like the fuse) double check that you have good grounds in key places. There should be a wire (black with white stripe) that mounts from a point on the engine (the LH, rear valve cover screw is typical) that goes through the firewall and connects to a common point where the door courtesy lights and other items come together. If you cannot find that point just run a ground wire from the engine to the bolt that holds the steering column up. Provided there is + current to one of the gauge posts (that 18 gauge thinner pink wire) the temp should now work. You can test it by running a jumper from a good ground to the post that has the dark blue wire from the sending unit attached. The gauge should fully deflect in the other direction. If it doesn’t, flip the wires on the gauge. Be careful not to touch that ground lead to the pink wire side!
The gas gauge should also now work. If it doesn’t, you can test it the same way as the temp gauge by running a ground jumper to the post that has the brown wire from the sending unit. The gauge should deflect in the other direction. If it doesn’t then flip the wires on the gauge posts and see if that cures your pegging problem. If that seems to work then suspect either a bad sending unit in the tank or a bad ground from the tank. First try running a ground, preferably from one of the screws on the float assembly mounted in the tank (if you can get to it under the gas tank cover) to a convenient point on the car chassis. This is not factory but often helps to cure the problem.
Note that the temp and fuel gauges work through different types of variable resistors which complete the respective circuits to ground. The temperature sender gets less restrictive to the flow of current as it warms up therefore causing the needle to deflect proportionate to the flow. The gas gauge is a rheostat which is very much like a volume control ****. Good grounds are absolutely essential for these to work correctly.
The horn problem may also be due to a poor ground. The horns themselves are grounded so double check that one of the two black wires coming off of the horns goes to a ground point, typically a shared connection with the headlights. The other black wires (one from each horn) should go to the horn relay mounted on the LH firewall by the radiator overflow tank. The clicking is a good sign meaning that the tan wire from the horn button is connected to the relay but what you hear may be that relay clicking, not the horns. This indicates that current is either not flowing to the horns, or the circuit is not completed from a poor ground, or the wires are hooked up wrong on the relay. The wire order should be black (closest to the front of the car), red then tan.
Putting fuses in line are a good insurance policy. Of course they are not NCRS correct but it sure beats a melted car. The best place to put one fuse that will protect virtually everything is between the heavy lug on the starter where the battery cable connects and the black 12 gauge (relatively thick) wire that comes off of that lug. It works its way up through the firewall to the back of the ammeter. This single line powers everything in the car except for spinning the starter motor. Buy a good blade type in line fuse holder (with a weather proof snap lid) and put it between that wire and the starter post. Or for slightly less protection put it between that same black line and the ammeter post. This protects everything in the car except for that length of wire between the starter and the fuse but it is a lot more convenient to get to (under the dash) and is out of the weather. A 30 amp fuse should be enough (that is the generator output rating) but you can go to 40 amps if you wish with no problems. The intent of that fuse is to protect against dead-short fires so a few amps higher will not be a problem; the fuse will blow just as quickly. And be sure to carry spares as if that blows you will absolutely be dead in the water. But then again if it blows you might have other things to worry about since it never should unless another short is underway.
And if you do not have a wiring diagram you might want to purchase one through many sources. Or write to me and I will send you a color version that I have as a jpeg.
Good luck! Mike
04-04-2007, 03:52 PM
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Great points Mike. I appreciate the simple instructions because I am not an electrician, especially with cars. I will print this document and go to work. I suspect poor grounding is a lot of my problems. That pink wire worries me most.
I have a wiring diagram from Lectric Limited but apparently the Ammeter info is wrong.
You can send yours to jk3533@aol.com if you want.
I have a wiring diagram from Lectric Limited but apparently the Ammeter info is wrong.
You can send yours to jk3533@aol.com if you want.
04-04-2007, 05:31 PM
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Here are some tips starting with the easy ones:
First be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery before messing with any wires.
Your ammeter is likely wired backwards. There is no harm but the needle points to the left instead of to the right when charging (such as when the lights are on). Flip the black with the paired red ones.
Corvettes are unique from passenger cars as there is no common ground through the metal parts of the car so many separate ground wires are necessary to complete the circuits. This is the cause of many electrical problems so always check this first.
You need to find the reason that that pink wire burned up. That problem with the turn signal/parking light may have caused it to burn since they share the same source through the flasher used to make the lights blink on turn signal actuation. But that pink circuit also supplies power to the gas and temp gauges. The fact that they peg means that you are still supplying positive voltage through the pink wire so be careful because if it touches the wrong spot due to the compromised insulation you could have a major car fire.
Burning up is usually caused by a dead short - something was likely wired wrong because if the short were through either the gauges or the turn lights, the very fine wires in the gauge movements or bulb filament would have burned in an instant sparing the heavier wire from frying. Something else is wrong - don’t give up until you find it.
Once you get the pink wire problem sorted out (don’t forget to check the obvious like the fuse) double check that you have good grounds in key places. There should be a wire (black with white stripe) that mounts from a point on the engine (the LH, rear valve cover screw is typical) that goes through the firewall and connects to a common point where the door courtesy lights and other items come together. If you cannot find that point just run a ground wire from the engine to the bolt that holds the steering column up. Provided there is + current to one of the gauge posts (that 18 gauge thinner pink wire) the temp should now work. You can test it by running a jumper from a good ground to the post that has the dark blue wire from the sending unit attached. The gauge should fully deflect in the other direction. If it doesn’t, flip the wires on the gauge. Be careful not to touch that ground lead to the pink wire side!
The gas gauge should also now work. If it doesn’t, you can test it the same way as the temp gauge by running a ground jumper to the post that has the brown wire from the sending unit. The gauge should deflect in the other direction. If it doesn’t then flip the wires on the gauge posts and see if that cures your pegging problem. If that seems to work then suspect either a bad sending unit in the tank or a bad ground from the tank. First try running a ground, preferably from one of the screws on the float assembly mounted in the tank (if you can get to it under the gas tank cover) to a convenient point on the car chassis. This is not factory but often helps to cure the problem.
Note that the temp and fuel gauges work through different types of variable resistors which complete the respective circuits to ground. The temperature sender gets less restrictive to the flow of current as it warms up therefore causing the needle to deflect proportionate to the flow. The gas gauge is a rheostat which is very much like a volume control ****. Good grounds are absolutely essential for these to work correctly.
The horn problem may also be due to a poor ground. The horns themselves are grounded so double check that one of the two black wires coming off of the horns goes to a ground point, typically a shared connection with the headlights. The other black wires (one from each horn) should go to the horn relay mounted on the LH firewall by the radiator overflow tank. The clicking is a good sign meaning that the tan wire from the horn button is connected to the relay but what you hear may be that relay clicking, not the horns. This indicates that current is either not flowing to the horns, or the circuit is not completed from a poor ground, or the wires are hooked up wrong on the relay. The wire order should be black (closest to the front of the car), red then tan.
Putting fuses in line are a good insurance policy. Of course they are not NCRS correct but it sure beats a melted car. The best place to put one fuse that will protect virtually everything is between the heavy lug on the starter where the battery cable connects and the black 12 gauge (relatively thick) wire that comes off of that lug. It works its way up through the firewall to the back of the ammeter. This single line powers everything in the car except for spinning the starter motor. Buy a good blade type in line fuse holder (with a weather proof snap lid) and put it between that wire and the starter post. Or for slightly less protection put it between that same black line and the ammeter post. This protects everything in the car except for that length of wire between the starter and the fuse but it is a lot more convenient to get to (under the dash) and is out of the weather. A 30 amp fuse should be enough (that is the generator output rating) but you can go to 40 amps if you wish with no problems. The intent of that fuse is to protect against dead-short fires so a few amps higher will not be a problem; the fuse will blow just as quickly. And be sure to carry spares as if that blows you will absolutely be dead in the water. But then again if it blows you might have other things to worry about since it never should unless another short is underway.
And if you do not have a wiring diagram you might want to purchase one through many sources. Or write to me and I will send you a color version that I have as a jpeg.
Good luck! Mike
First be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery before messing with any wires.
Your ammeter is likely wired backwards. There is no harm but the needle points to the left instead of to the right when charging (such as when the lights are on). Flip the black with the paired red ones.
Corvettes are unique from passenger cars as there is no common ground through the metal parts of the car so many separate ground wires are necessary to complete the circuits. This is the cause of many electrical problems so always check this first.
You need to find the reason that that pink wire burned up. That problem with the turn signal/parking light may have caused it to burn since they share the same source through the flasher used to make the lights blink on turn signal actuation. But that pink circuit also supplies power to the gas and temp gauges. The fact that they peg means that you are still supplying positive voltage through the pink wire so be careful because if it touches the wrong spot due to the compromised insulation you could have a major car fire.
Burning up is usually caused by a dead short - something was likely wired wrong because if the short were through either the gauges or the turn lights, the very fine wires in the gauge movements or bulb filament would have burned in an instant sparing the heavier wire from frying. Something else is wrong - don’t give up until you find it.
Once you get the pink wire problem sorted out (don’t forget to check the obvious like the fuse) double check that you have good grounds in key places. There should be a wire (black with white stripe) that mounts from a point on the engine (the LH, rear valve cover screw is typical) that goes through the firewall and connects to a common point where the door courtesy lights and other items come together. If you cannot find that point just run a ground wire from the engine to the bolt that holds the steering column up. Provided there is + current to one of the gauge posts (that 18 gauge thinner pink wire) the temp should now work. You can test it by running a jumper from a good ground to the post that has the dark blue wire from the sending unit attached. The gauge should fully deflect in the other direction. If it doesn’t, flip the wires on the gauge. Be careful not to touch that ground lead to the pink wire side!
The gas gauge should also now work. If it doesn’t, you can test it the same way as the temp gauge by running a ground jumper to the post that has the brown wire from the sending unit. The gauge should deflect in the other direction. If it doesn’t then flip the wires on the gauge posts and see if that cures your pegging problem. If that seems to work then suspect either a bad sending unit in the tank or a bad ground from the tank. First try running a ground, preferably from one of the screws on the float assembly mounted in the tank (if you can get to it under the gas tank cover) to a convenient point on the car chassis. This is not factory but often helps to cure the problem.
Note that the temp and fuel gauges work through different types of variable resistors which complete the respective circuits to ground. The temperature sender gets less restrictive to the flow of current as it warms up therefore causing the needle to deflect proportionate to the flow. The gas gauge is a rheostat which is very much like a volume control ****. Good grounds are absolutely essential for these to work correctly.
The horn problem may also be due to a poor ground. The horns themselves are grounded so double check that one of the two black wires coming off of the horns goes to a ground point, typically a shared connection with the headlights. The other black wires (one from each horn) should go to the horn relay mounted on the LH firewall by the radiator overflow tank. The clicking is a good sign meaning that the tan wire from the horn button is connected to the relay but what you hear may be that relay clicking, not the horns. This indicates that current is either not flowing to the horns, or the circuit is not completed from a poor ground, or the wires are hooked up wrong on the relay. The wire order should be black (closest to the front of the car), red then tan.
Putting fuses in line are a good insurance policy. Of course they are not NCRS correct but it sure beats a melted car. The best place to put one fuse that will protect virtually everything is between the heavy lug on the starter where the battery cable connects and the black 12 gauge (relatively thick) wire that comes off of that lug. It works its way up through the firewall to the back of the ammeter. This single line powers everything in the car except for spinning the starter motor. Buy a good blade type in line fuse holder (with a weather proof snap lid) and put it between that wire and the starter post. Or for slightly less protection put it between that same black line and the ammeter post. This protects everything in the car except for that length of wire between the starter and the fuse but it is a lot more convenient to get to (under the dash) and is out of the weather. A 30 amp fuse should be enough (that is the generator output rating) but you can go to 40 amps if you wish with no problems. The intent of that fuse is to protect against dead-short fires so a few amps higher will not be a problem; the fuse will blow just as quickly. And be sure to carry spares as if that blows you will absolutely be dead in the water. But then again if it blows you might have other things to worry about since it never should unless another short is underway.
And if you do not have a wiring diagram you might want to purchase one through many sources. Or write to me and I will send you a color version that I have as a jpeg.
Good luck! Mike
04-04-2007, 09:19 PM
#11
Race Director
There is a little plastic bushing on each gauge terminal,
it has been too many years since I replaced these, but I believe they are installed from the inside of the gauge and stick out the back of the gauge, surrounding the terminal,a nd then the holding nut is placed on the stud, tehn of course the wire then the wire retaining nut.
Or maybe teh bushing installs from the outside. Actually, I think it does install from the outside, that makes more sense.
Pop a gauge open and look, you will see what i mean.
I think i was able to replace my broken bushing with something I got at the hardware store. or I made something on the lathe, i don't recall.
Doug
it has been too many years since I replaced these, but I believe they are installed from the inside of the gauge and stick out the back of the gauge, surrounding the terminal,a nd then the holding nut is placed on the stud, tehn of course the wire then the wire retaining nut.
Or maybe teh bushing installs from the outside. Actually, I think it does install from the outside, that makes more sense.
Pop a gauge open and look, you will see what i mean.
I think i was able to replace my broken bushing with something I got at the hardware store. or I made something on the lathe, i don't recall.
Doug
04-05-2007, 10:57 AM
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I agree with Doug. The absense of those plastic insulator bushings could be the cause of your dead-short melting of the pink wires. It is the most logical first place to look.
If you have a continuity tester (or ohm meter) you can test it by disconnecting both wires from the gauge then putting one lead of the tester on the outside of the gauge case (the ground point) and the other on one gauge post (test one at a time). There should be no continuity (a complete circuit) between those points. If there is continuity then Doug gets the prize for IDing the source of the short.
If you have a continuity tester (or ohm meter) you can test it by disconnecting both wires from the gauge then putting one lead of the tester on the outside of the gauge case (the ground point) and the other on one gauge post (test one at a time). There should be no continuity (a complete circuit) between those points. If there is continuity then Doug gets the prize for IDing the source of the short.
04-11-2007, 08:33 AM
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For those interested, it appears this was the source of the problem. I did have continuity when doing the above test. I had to take the fuel and temp gauges out of the housing, take them apart and re-assemble. Apparently I had one of the terminals inserted in such a way that it was making contact with the housing. I no longer have continuity here. I have partially re-assembled, wired it back up, and did not burn the wire. Also the gas gauge appears to work now. I also installed a new sending unit in the gas tank. I didn't start the car and warm it up to see if the temp gauge was working. I intend to reassemble, put in an inline blade type fuse in the ammeter to starter wire and test everything. I'll let you know.
Thanks to all for your input.
Thanks to all for your input.
04-17-2007, 08:51 AM
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Update on what I have done and a couple of questions:
I now have every light, dash, headlights, taillights, all turn signals, horn, Amp gauge, Temp gauge, Gas gauge, Oil pressure gauge...everything seems to work on the car now. The previously mentioned left, front turn signal was the result of a wire that came loose from the connector near the headlights. The horn was the result of poor grounding and also the wire on the connection on the steering shaft came loose.
I put in the in-line blade type 30 amp fuse in the black wire going to the Amp gauge.
As mentioned, I pulled the Temp/Gas gauge cluster, disassembled, and reassembled. My gauges did not have the plastic insert mentioned above. The gauge mounts between two tabs on the inside of the housing that force the terminal to center in the oversize holes in the housing. This prevents the touch/shorting/burned wire issue I had (twice!). On the back of both housings there is a thin cardboard spacer over both terminals. The spacer is imprinted with "Ign" and "gauge", so I don't think this is a "bubba" fix. A nut then tightens down on the terminal againset the cardboard and holds the terminal centered. The gas gauge cardboard has a rise in the center that separates the two terminals additionallly. After doing this, there is no continuity between the terminals and housings on both gauges, prior to installation.
Here are my two questions: After assembling the wiring back up, the pink leads/terminals to the ignition still does not have continuity to the housing on either gauge, but the brown wire coming from the gas tank, that terminal has continuity to the housing?
Also, while the Amp gauge works great, after I reversed the wiring as suggested by others above and is wrong on any issued wiring diagram that I have seen, these terminals also have continuity to the housing.
Is this continuity a problem?
Remember, I am not a good electrician. I have a continuity tester and a test light. I don't have any meters and don't know how to use either, so keep it simple.
Thanks
Jim
I now have every light, dash, headlights, taillights, all turn signals, horn, Amp gauge, Temp gauge, Gas gauge, Oil pressure gauge...everything seems to work on the car now. The previously mentioned left, front turn signal was the result of a wire that came loose from the connector near the headlights. The horn was the result of poor grounding and also the wire on the connection on the steering shaft came loose.
I put in the in-line blade type 30 amp fuse in the black wire going to the Amp gauge.
As mentioned, I pulled the Temp/Gas gauge cluster, disassembled, and reassembled. My gauges did not have the plastic insert mentioned above. The gauge mounts between two tabs on the inside of the housing that force the terminal to center in the oversize holes in the housing. This prevents the touch/shorting/burned wire issue I had (twice!). On the back of both housings there is a thin cardboard spacer over both terminals. The spacer is imprinted with "Ign" and "gauge", so I don't think this is a "bubba" fix. A nut then tightens down on the terminal againset the cardboard and holds the terminal centered. The gas gauge cardboard has a rise in the center that separates the two terminals additionallly. After doing this, there is no continuity between the terminals and housings on both gauges, prior to installation.
Here are my two questions: After assembling the wiring back up, the pink leads/terminals to the ignition still does not have continuity to the housing on either gauge, but the brown wire coming from the gas tank, that terminal has continuity to the housing?
Also, while the Amp gauge works great, after I reversed the wiring as suggested by others above and is wrong on any issued wiring diagram that I have seen, these terminals also have continuity to the housing.
Is this continuity a problem?
Remember, I am not a good electrician. I have a continuity tester and a test light. I don't have any meters and don't know how to use either, so keep it simple.
Thanks
Jim
04-17-2007, 07:57 PM
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04-17-2007, 09:12 PM
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Thanks JohnZ. Is the continuity on the Amp gauge OK or should I look further. I didn't disassemble those gauges, they seem to be working OK, but I don't want a problem later if avoidable now.
Again, thanks for your help.
Again, thanks for your help.
04-17-2007, 09:44 PM
#18
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Quoting "Also, while the Amp gauge works great, after I reversed the wiring as suggested by others above and is wrong on any issued wiring diagram that I have seen, these terminals also have continuity to the housing."
For future reference.... I called Lectric Limited about the mistake on their diagram back when I re-wired my 59. They said they knew it was wrong, showing the connections on the meter backwards, but they could not change it. It was that way on the AIM and their agreement that let them use the diagram doesn't allow them to correct the mistake....at least that is what they told me anyway....
Jon
For future reference.... I called Lectric Limited about the mistake on their diagram back when I re-wired my 59. They said they knew it was wrong, showing the connections on the meter backwards, but they could not change it. It was that way on the AIM and their agreement that let them use the diagram doesn't allow them to correct the mistake....at least that is what they told me anyway....
Jon
04-18-2007, 12:29 AM
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For future reference.... I called Lectric Limited about the mistake on their diagram back when I re-wired my 59. They said they knew it was wrong, showing the connections on the meter backwards, but they could not change it. It was that way on the AIM and their agreement that let them use the diagram doesn't allow them to correct the mistake....at least that is what they told me anyway....
Jon
Jon
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Great investment.
05-07-2008, 09:30 AM
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When reading above you will see this post is over a year old. My 59 had been doing great. But not on Sunday...
Referencing the 30 amp in line fuse installed above between the Amp gauge and the black wire going to the starter, that fuse is now blowing everytime I put one in. Had to be towed home Sunday.
I checked the continuity issues I had above with my fuel and temp gauges, no problem.
Got some 40 amp fuses but haven't tried them yet, besides there is a bigger problem somewhere I am sure.
Any hints on where to start looking. I am not a good automotive electrician. I bought a multimeter and will start learning to use, if I don't burn it up. I was probing the in line fuse terminals with it and the wires from the multimeter got very hot.
Referencing the 30 amp in line fuse installed above between the Amp gauge and the black wire going to the starter, that fuse is now blowing everytime I put one in. Had to be towed home Sunday.
I checked the continuity issues I had above with my fuel and temp gauges, no problem.
Got some 40 amp fuses but haven't tried them yet, besides there is a bigger problem somewhere I am sure.
Any hints on where to start looking. I am not a good automotive electrician. I bought a multimeter and will start learning to use, if I don't burn it up. I was probing the in line fuse terminals with it and the wires from the multimeter got very hot.