How to Remove Rust Easily... Cool stuff
03-26-2007, 11:53 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
How to Remove Rust Easily... Cool stuff
I posted this in the C4 area, thought you guys would like it too....
I thought this was cool. The video shows the easy way
to remove rust from a part. No Smoking....
(Mustang owners, please use a swimming pool)
http://www.metacafe.com/w/456478/
I thought this was cool. The video shows the easy way
to remove rust from a part. No Smoking....
(Mustang owners, please use a swimming pool)
http://www.metacafe.com/w/456478/
03-27-2007, 12:07 AM
#2
Yes it is cool. Loads of sites out there dealing with electrolysis. WARNING... I have seen site recommend using stainless steel in the process. Check this guys site out a great source for more info...plus he hits the science of why NOT to use SS.
http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
Even did a trailer frame.
http://www.antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm
http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
Even did a trailer frame.
http://www.antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm
03-27-2007, 02:49 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
In the video he used a upper A-Frame to show rust removal the chemical way. I think I heard him say 48 hours to do the total job. Wouldn't it be easier to just sand blast a part like that. I have sand blasted many parts like that in minutes not hours and for sure not 48 hours. I think sandblasting does a great job without hurting the surface on heavy metal items such as exhaust manifolds and A-Frames. I can't see doing it the way described in the video. I use regular Play sand which is pretty cheap to do this. Any thoughts?
03-27-2007, 10:06 AM
#4
Yes its true....blasting would be faster.
To blast you need a sandblaster, air compressor and possibly blast cabinet...lets not forget a mask to be safe.
Electrolysis you need your battery charger, a bucket and some laundry soap.
I believe the main points for electrolysis are that it is less destructive than media blasting and it gets into all the nooks and crannies of a part. Inside and out the part will be free of rust.
In the video they used a current of 2 amps. It is my understanding that with a higher amperage, the process time will shorten.
To blast you need a sandblaster, air compressor and possibly blast cabinet...lets not forget a mask to be safe.
Electrolysis you need your battery charger, a bucket and some laundry soap.
I believe the main points for electrolysis are that it is less destructive than media blasting and it gets into all the nooks and crannies of a part. Inside and out the part will be free of rust.
In the video they used a current of 2 amps. It is my understanding that with a higher amperage, the process time will shorten.
03-27-2007, 11:31 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
Yes its true....blasting would be faster.
To blast you need a sandblaster, air compressor and possibly blast cabinet...lets not forget a mask to be safe.
Electrolysis you need your battery charger, a bucket and some laundry soap.
I believe the main points for electrolysis are that it is less destructive than media blasting and it gets into all the nooks and crannies of a part. Inside and out the part will be free of rust.
In the video they used a current of 2 amps. It is my understanding that with a higher amperage, the process time will shorten.
To blast you need a sandblaster, air compressor and possibly blast cabinet...lets not forget a mask to be safe.
Electrolysis you need your battery charger, a bucket and some laundry soap.
I believe the main points for electrolysis are that it is less destructive than media blasting and it gets into all the nooks and crannies of a part. Inside and out the part will be free of rust.
In the video they used a current of 2 amps. It is my understanding that with a higher amperage, the process time will shorten.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44762
I blast outside so no need for a media cabinet and I do wear a mask. Blasting does get into every nook and cranny of the part being cleaned. Blasting an upper A-Frame can be done in 30 minutes clean and ready for paint not 48 hours as in the other case. An A-Frame is a heavy duty piece and doesn't get damaged when blasting it. Any heavy duty part not a problem. Blasting sheet metal is the only problem I ever encountered. It will swell the metal.
I also own a SpeedBlaster handgun type of sandblaster most everyone has seen out there. They are great when needing a blaster right away to blast small areas of rust. No need to drag your main equipment out. I use it all the time on my vehicles. Great if doing bodywork and small parts that need to be cleaned up. Here is a link to the one if anyone cares to take a look: http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Blaster-.../dp/B000FNBXDK
03-27-2007, 11:37 AM
#6
Racer
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: milwaukee wi
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sounds like a great idea, and one more good approach to this problem, and hey, you can never have to many approaches to a problem. it's been a few years, but i thought i got the same results by dipping small parts into some phosphoric acid. seemed safe and fast. any thoughts welcome.
03-27-2007, 11:51 AM
#7
Yes I agree blasting is great and has its place, I am not saying no one should ever sandblast.
As for a comperssor.... what size is needed for blasting?
But when you say you blasting does get into every nook and cranny.... I dunno. If you cant get the blaster tip into a hole or inside of a the part... how does it get cleaned?
The only way to ensure a frame would be cleaned inside the all the rails is to what? Have it dipped right....acid is one way to go, but electrolysis is another.
BTW, I would love to have all the equipment to blast. But I think for some parts I would still use electrolysis on some parts.
As for a comperssor.... what size is needed for blasting?
But when you say you blasting does get into every nook and cranny.... I dunno. If you cant get the blaster tip into a hole or inside of a the part... how does it get cleaned?
The only way to ensure a frame would be cleaned inside the all the rails is to what? Have it dipped right....acid is one way to go, but electrolysis is another.
BTW, I would love to have all the equipment to blast. But I think for some parts I would still use electrolysis on some parts.
Last edited by al329; 03-27-2007 at 11:56 AM.
03-27-2007, 01:52 PM
#8
I don't want to get off on a rant here, but please don't use silica sand. There are plenty of low cost alternatives out there, one of them being crushed glass.Silicosis is a disease caused by breathing in particles from fragmented sand. Once you have it, you have it forever.Here is a brief excerpt from the Workers Compensation Board article.
"The use of crystalline silica was prohibited in Great Britain in 1950 and in other European countries in 1966. Since 1974 the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) in the United States has recommended that silica sand be prohibited as an abrasive blasting material.
Workers' exposure to crystalline silica must be kept as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA) below the exposure limits in Table 5-4 in the Occupational Health and Safety Regulation (page 5-35).
Abrasive Blasting Operations •"
"The use of crystalline silica was prohibited in Great Britain in 1950 and in other European countries in 1966. Since 1974 the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) in the United States has recommended that silica sand be prohibited as an abrasive blasting material.
Workers' exposure to crystalline silica must be kept as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA) below the exposure limits in Table 5-4 in the Occupational Health and Safety Regulation (page 5-35).
Abrasive Blasting Operations •"
03-27-2007, 03:17 PM
#9
I don't want to get off on a rant here, but please don't use silica sand. There are plenty of low cost alternatives out there, one of them being crushed glass.Silicosis is a disease caused by breathing in particles from fragmented sand. Once you have it, you have it forever.Here is a brief excerpt from the Workers Compensation Board article.
"The use of crystalline silica was prohibited in Great Britain in 1950 and in other European countries in 1966. Since 1974 the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) in the United States has recommended that silica sand be prohibited as an abrasive blasting material.
Workers' exposure to crystalline silica must be kept as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA) below the exposure limits in Table 5-4 in the Occupational Health and Safety Regulation (page 5-35).
Abrasive Blasting Operations •"
"The use of crystalline silica was prohibited in Great Britain in 1950 and in other European countries in 1966. Since 1974 the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) in the United States has recommended that silica sand be prohibited as an abrasive blasting material.
Workers' exposure to crystalline silica must be kept as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA) below the exposure limits in Table 5-4 in the Occupational Health and Safety Regulation (page 5-35).
Abrasive Blasting Operations •"
Good advice. Funny how on 60 mins a while back they showed how the Navy did not provide the deck monkeys with breathing protection while they sand blasted the ship. End result silicosis. And from what you posted they knew it was a hazard a long time ago.
So you listed one .....what are some others?
Tks
03-27-2007, 05:03 PM
#10
Instructor
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: Virginia
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Aluminum Oxide, Silicon Carbide, Glass Bead, Walnut Shells, Corn Cob, Poly/Plastic bead, etc. Check out tptools.com or eastwood. both have charts showing the best abrasive for the application.
03-27-2007, 09:15 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
sounds like a great idea, and one more good approach to this problem, and hey, you can never have to many approaches to a problem. it's been a few years, but i thought i got the same results by dipping small parts into some phosphoric acid. seemed safe and fast. any thoughts welcome.
03-27-2007, 11:39 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
I don't want to get off on a rant here, but please don't use silica sand. There are plenty of low cost alternatives out there, one of them being crushed glass.Silicosis is a disease caused by breathing in particles from fragmented sand. Once you have it, you have it forever.Here is a brief excerpt from the Workers Compensation Board article.
"The use of crystalline silica was prohibited in Great Britain in 1950 and in other European countries in 1966. Since 1974 the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) in the United States has recommended that silica sand be prohibited as an abrasive blasting material.
Workers' exposure to crystalline silica must be kept as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA) below the exposure limits in Table 5-4 in the Occupational Health and Safety Regulation (page 5-35).
Abrasive Blasting Operations •"
"The use of crystalline silica was prohibited in Great Britain in 1950 and in other European countries in 1966. Since 1974 the National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) in the United States has recommended that silica sand be prohibited as an abrasive blasting material.
Workers' exposure to crystalline silica must be kept as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA) below the exposure limits in Table 5-4 in the Occupational Health and Safety Regulation (page 5-35).
Abrasive Blasting Operations •"
03-27-2007, 11:46 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Yes I agree blasting is great and has its place, I am not saying no one should ever sandblast.
As for a comperssor.... what size is needed for blasting?
But when you say you blasting does get into every nook and cranny.... I dunno. If you cant get the blaster tip into a hole or inside of a the part... how does it get cleaned?
The only way to ensure a frame would be cleaned inside the all the rails is to what? Have it dipped right....acid is one way to go, but electrolysis is another.
BTW, I would love to have all the equipment to blast. But I think for some parts I would still use electrolysis on some parts.
As for a comperssor.... what size is needed for blasting?
But when you say you blasting does get into every nook and cranny.... I dunno. If you cant get the blaster tip into a hole or inside of a the part... how does it get cleaned?
The only way to ensure a frame would be cleaned inside the all the rails is to what? Have it dipped right....acid is one way to go, but electrolysis is another.
BTW, I would love to have all the equipment to blast. But I think for some parts I would still use electrolysis on some parts.
03-28-2007, 04:30 AM
#14
Burning Brakes
sounds like a great idea, and one more good approach to this problem, and hey, you can never have to many approaches to a problem. it's been a few years, but i thought i got the same results by dipping small parts into some phosphoric acid. seemed safe and fast. any thoughts welcome.
03-29-2007, 12:26 AM
#16
There is probably something I'm just missing with it being late, but...
In the old electronics classes I had years ago, a basic fundamental was that current traveled from Negative to Positive form the power source. Electrons left the Negative terminal, flowed through the circuit, and back to the Positive terminal.
Yet the anode is the Positive terminal, where electrons are arriving, not leaving.
What am I missing on why the metal is going opposite the electron flow?
In the old electronics classes I had years ago, a basic fundamental was that current traveled from Negative to Positive form the power source. Electrons left the Negative terminal, flowed through the circuit, and back to the Positive terminal.
Yet the anode is the Positive terminal, where electrons are arriving, not leaving.
What am I missing on why the metal is going opposite the electron flow?
03-29-2007, 12:47 AM
#17
03-30-2007, 02:02 PM
#18
Well, like I said, maybe it was just the late hour. I was thinking in terms of plating, but I see that really they are doing a type of reverse plating, having the rust (the oxide) remove from the main object and transfer to the anode, leaving the iron/steel behind.
04-05-2007, 03:47 AM
#19
Instructor
OK, this sounds like a cool way to get the rust off. Anyway, I started at the supermarket, then Target, then WalMart. So far, I have not been able to find this Arm & Hammer "Super Washing Soda". Where is it sold? Has anyone seen this in the store, and where? I am in So. Florida if anyone has any leads. Thanks.
04-05-2007, 05:26 AM
#20
OK, this sounds like a cool way to get the rust off. Anyway, I started at the supermarket, then Target, then WalMart. So far, I have not been able to find this Arm & Hammer "Super Washing Soda". Where is it sold? Has anyone seen this in the store, and where? I am in So. Florida if anyone has any leads. Thanks.
Options:
Amazon.com
soapsgonebuy.com
If you can't find it locally, call Arm & Hammer at this number: 1-800-524-1328 - they should be able to tell you where the closest place is that you can find it.
Want to make your own "laundry soda"? Take baking soda, spread it out onto a cookie sheet and bake it in the oven at a little over 300 degrees for an hour or so it will drive away a water and CO2 molecule thus making washing soda.
At temperatures above 300 Fahrenheit (149 Celsius), baking soda decomposes into sodium carbonate, water, and carbon dioxide.
2NaHCO3 -> Na2Co3 + H20 + CO2