ctjackster

Actually, before dancing with joy I need to replace some sort of super heavy go-fast clutch with something with a reasonable pedal effort, and for that I am going the Centerforce II route. (I just had my 65 out on Saturday, and it seems my ankle has no tolerence left for that heavy clutch, was in pain at every shift - an old injury)

So, what the hell do I need anyway? CFII pplate (CFT361675), disc (383271), Throw Out bearing (N1716) ? Alignment tool? Any hard-won tips? Anything that I should have balanced?

note, I have replaced many a clutch on my motorcycles (child's play that) but never on a car. Time to lose my clutch virginity . . . .

edit - placed my signature in the post so you know what year-engine C2 I have

Plastic Pig

This is what I would recommend.

CTF-DF271675 Clutch kit

CTF-N1716 T/O bearing

CTF-53010 Alignment tool buy or borrow. It's only 6 bucks

ARP-230-2202 P.P. bolts

ARP-200-2807 Flywheel bolts.

ZZZ-ST656KPB Pilot bushing

Borrow or make a pilot bushing removal tool.


Probably a good idea to check the flywheel for cracks and if it has enough meat on on it you should have it cut. If not replace it.

Might want to have a trans mount and a rear seal for the transmission handy in case they need attention too. Good time to check the u-joints as well.


Make sure you install the disc facing the right way and install the T/O bearing on the fork correctly. They are really the only things you can do wrong. Torque the PP and FW down evenly in a star pattern. It's all just nuts and bolts. Remember righty tighty lefty loosy and you should be good to go.

It's a sucky azz job to do laying on your back on the garage floor. Have fun.

Injected Stingray

I think your ankles going to be very happy. My knee cap had a nice twitch when I would drive In heavy cruise nights until I put the Centerforce in my 55. It's pretty easy, I would get new aftermarket grade 8 bolts for the pressure plate. Make sure the disc is facing in the right direction. The plastic tool is sloppy so you have to hold it up(To keep the disc on center) while you tighten the PP a little at a time in a star pattern. If the trans won't go in you have to start over. Good luck

MasterDave

I have the CF II on my vert and it's a dream to operate. As a side note make sure your linkages from pedal to TO bearing have nice round smooth holes. The holes tend to elongate with age ( can't believe I just said that). Also the nylon bushings at the upper cluth/brake mechanism was my problem. The bushings were worn away and the shaft became notched. In short, before I did the clutch I would make sure all else was operating smoothly. The worst part of the install is taking the trans in/out.

65 DENCO

Don't forget the adjustable bell housing clutch fork pivot ball. They tell you about it and tell you how to measure to see if you need one. It is written on a separate colored sheet. If you don't put one in you will have no clutch pedal when your done. Unless your measurements tell you it is not needed, which I doubt.... I am talking about the Centerforce Dual Friction, not sure if the CF II is the same tho I thought it may be worth mentioning...

savewave

Viet Nam Vett

097's Right on with his Parts list. The only other thing I would add would be to replace the "Ball Stud" that the Clutch Release Fork Pivots on.

Also.. Check the condition of the old fork it's self. When I did mine I replaced these parts just for S_ _ T's and Giggles. Since your their ..go for broke and replace the old parts. Better to spend a few bucks more then have it come back and bite you in the butt.

Also check for cracks around the Ball Stud area where it screws into the Bell Housing.


I'm sure you'll like your CF II . I have one in use with my 502....operates like a dream..

ctjackster

Thanks guys (and thanks MasterDave for advising of a clutch function deterioration issue to be spotting for ) You might recall I first posted up about this last May, and I have checked everything else and the clutch itself remains as the sole culprit. I should get on this while the weather is crappy, or crappy again. The cold concrete floor of my garage is like an old friend.

Bob:

"Probably a good idea to check the flywheel for cracks and if it has enough meat on on it you should have it cut. If not replace it."

What's enough meat - are we talking like brake rotors?

"Make sure you install the disc facing the right way and install the T/O bearing on the fork correctly."

what's the wrong way, is one side obviously right and one obviously wrong? (I bet that's a real rookie question!) What is the right vs. wrong way to install the T/O bearing - is this like that right way - wrong way diagram that JohnZ posted a while back?

here's that:

knight37128

Suck it up, and stop whining.

GTR1999

Big thing with these clutches. Many guys with both C2 & C3's did the job on their backs only to do it again because of the linkage issues. I've seen guys swap out the SB Z bar for a BB bar for better location, but most use the adjustable ball stud with loctite or weld them to size. I think Lars once posted the spec for the ball stud.
I had a brand new CFII here and decided against using it in favor of a Hays. It bolted right in no problems. So far it's held up to lot of abuse. Same price at the time, much less headache.

ctjackster

I hear ya, I have gone from a double black diamond, ski straight off the cliff and land it kind of guy (ok, broke my thumb once doing that) to a lame-***, can't even press the clutch in my car without whining kind of guy. To be honest, it feels like I have a chip of sorts that floats right into a severe pain producing (cannot complete the motion) position.

Of course, none of this would be a problem if that damn telephone pole hadn't jumped out in front of my car back in '85 (and nearly ripped my foot off my leg, shattering my heel - calcaneus - and various subtalar joint pieces, as well as causing the remains of my tibia to come spearing out to daylight; THAt'S gonna leave a mark, thought I.)

Hey Mark (VnV) - I am a firm believer of the "while I'm in there" too - and a new clutch fork is just $58 or so - do you really think I should freshen that up too, and if so, is that easy enough to do once there?

Plastic Pig

Yes, the flywheel needs to be a certain thickness just like a brake rotor. Somebody here should have the specs handy.


The clutch disc is pretty obvious to most, but I have seen DIY's go wrong here more than once. Every CF clutch I have installed has a marking indicating correct installation of the disc right on it.

There is a picture from JohnZ floating around on the forum showing correct way to install a T/O bearing on the fork. (search) There are also usually directions with pics in the box.


Let me know when you do it and I'll drive up and watch. I would offer to advise and help as well, but with you being a lawyer and all I wouldn't feel comfortable unless I brought my own lawyer to CMOA.

Plastic Pig

Just out of curiosity, why aren't you putting a 5 speed in ?

ctjackster

that'd be some serious project creep . . .

plus, I just changed the fluid in my Muncie not that long ago, I need to get my money's worth there . . . . . .

Always free to come on up and taunt me while I do the clutch thing, as a lawyer I perform better under pressure

knight37128

I don't know why you would do this with it being spring. Oh, y'all yankees still have snow on the ground.

nassau66427

Just a small tip if you can't get the transmission to go in that last little bit - do not try to pull it in by tightening the transmission bolts. Hook up your clutch linkage and have someone depress the clutch pedal while you wiggle the transmission forward that last little bit. It'll pop right into place.

Viet Nam Vett

Wooooooh....!!! Stop the press..!!!! You mean your not going to do a 5 speed now that your dropping the tranny to do a Clutch..???

Man... you must love that cold Cold Concrete..

Plastic Pig

Plastic Pig

If he's gonna do it he might as well do it right.

SRIII tube frame, 6spd, LS7.......

Kensmith

Jack,

Let us know how you like it. I have one of those heavy duty clutches and hate it. 2800lb diaphragm not real bad but I don't see the need or like the exercise.

Thanks,

Ken