62Jeff

Does anyone have a reliable source for chrome interior screws with oversized shafts? The chrome screws holding the halo and rear window trim panels on my 65 are barely holding on due to enlarged holes.

Before I drag out the JB Weld, fill up the holes, and re-tap them, I thought I'd ask about the alternative screws.

Years ago Walter's Engineering sold these types of screws for corvettes - standard sized heads but oversized shafts, specifically sold for use in stripped holes. Their web site is still up, running, and accepting orders. However I don't think anyone is home because a few months ago my e-mails to them bounced, my order never was charged to my credit card, and my order never arrived.

LB66383

Several of the major Vette vendors have a repair kit for this. It's a bunch of flat rectangular pieces of tin, about 3/4" by 2" each and a handful of pop rivets. Rivet them to the panel around the rear window and halo, then you can use the standard screws into them to anchor the trim. I had the same problem as you, used the kit, now much more secure.

JohnZ

Plastic drywall anchors work great for those non-stressed trim applications where the holes are oversized.

GUSTO14

You can also take a small length of wire, about 3/4", and bend it into an "L" shape. Stick it into the hole (a small piece of tape will hold it) and then insert the screw. Unless the hole is very over sized, this will tighten the hole right... If it's much over sized, I would use John's trick from above.

Wire about the thickness of a paper clip works well, as does copper.

Good luck... GUSTO

JohnFromVentura

I think these are #10 screws with #8 heads. My local hardware store actually has these. They are made by the company that makes most screws in white/dark green boxes. If you can't find them I might have an old box someplace.

Coves4me

Jeff, if you have a Pep Boys nearby, they carry the chrome screws with or without the attached countersunk washer. They have them in small blister packs with 4 to a pack. Also, they carry a "Ford" trick that works great on enlarged fiberglass holes. It is a plastic insert that fits in an enlarged hole and is designed with a collar to fit flush and allow you to screw into it as it spreads split legs on the backside. These also come in different sizes and are found in the same area. I've used both the chrome screws and the plastic split collars with great success. Good luck!

kenEDMUNDS

His website is down but you can call Dave Walters direct at 305-254-6798. I buy from him often. Call in the mornings.

62Jeff

Thanks to all for your helpful replies.

I've used the plastic drywall anchors all over the doors and door sills of my 62, but didn't think there was enough depth in this are of my 65 for them to go in. Perhaps I can cut some drywall anchors down a bit and see how that goes.

I've tried the wire trick but it never seems to work for me.

But first I'll check the local auto and hardware stores for these screws.

Tampa Jerry

You may try putting a plastic tie strap into the enlarged screw hole. If the hole is really enlarged, you can put two ties in the hole. Once the screw is in, you can cut the tie off with a razor knife. I sometimes use this with tapcon screws into concrete. Works the same way. Jerry

DSR

great idea's !

62Jeff

Excellent information. I may give him a call if I can't resolve it locally.

buns

Totally Stainless has a large selection of "Jackson Head" oval head sheet metal screws. #10 screw with a #8 head, #8 screw with a #6 head. Page 142 in the online catalog. www.totallystainless.com

They also have kits to replace a lot of the hardware on mid-years with stainless. Check it out. I love this place.

62Jeff

Thanks for the reference, I've downloaded their catalog. At the bottom of page 142 where they list the undersized head screws, do you happen to know what that chart is telling me? Is the #8 in reference to the screw or head size?

aworks

This is what I do.

kidvette

Ace hardware has lots of stainless screws in all sizes and heads. I go there for lots of interior hardware.

magicv8

Next time you wander through a junk yard take a screwdriver and a plastic bag. Car manufacturers had their own bolt works when our cars were made and they often filled the cars with screws that have nonmatch head, shank and thread sizes (like the ones that hold the sill plates in a c2 - and those are the same as screws that hold up the sunvisors on full size 70s Chrysler products).

I have a jar of them now.

buns

The #8 and #10 is the screw size. So , if your trim pieces originally used a #8, order a #10 and it will have a #8 size head.

62Jeff

Thank you kind sir.

C Ray

I use round, tapered toothpicks. I break them off to the right length and put the larger end in first. Then it works much like a dry wall anchor.

Randy G.

Instead of Mickey Mousing your car up with the wrong screws just fix it right. Go to Pep Boys and buy the fiberglass boat repair Bondo body filler. It is made by 3M, cost about $8, has a picture of a car and boat on the can, comes in a quart paint type can with a small tube of hardener. The filler is actually a mixture of fine stranded fiberglass and fiberglass resin.

Take a larger drill bit in your hand (not in a drill) and put a medium chamfer in the hole you want to fix. Mix a half a tablespoon full of the premixed resin/fiberglass with a pinch of hardener on a piece of paper from your favorite magazine and using one of their small plastic spreaders located about 18" away from the filler at Pep Boys squeeze it into the hole. Wait 5-6 minutes, redrill the hole to fit the right screw and you've got a repair stronger than the original hole before it was stripped out and you can tighten the heck out of the original screws.

Bubba drilled some 3/4" diameter holes in my car and I used it with blue baseboard painters tape as a backing to fill those large holes. I sanded them down 10 minutes later and it was stronger than the car itself when it set up. I even repaired the broken dash under the steering column with it. I used a hand grinder to remove the damaged glass, used a cut up soda can to form the circle around the steering column hole, sprayed the can with a light shot of silicone spray in order to release the filler, packed the 3M resin/glass filler into the damaged area, let it set, shaped it and it came out very strong and very nice. Even my painter was impressed with the results.

It's easy to work with and I've never done body work before. I used a regular file to shape it as it hardened when I fixed the dash and then finished it off with some 80 grit and progressively finer sand paper as I completed the repair. It's some tough stuff.

As I complete the restoration of my '54 I thought I was going to have to use oversize screws everywhere when putting the interior back together but this stuff is so cheap and easy to use it makes no sense to. I was able to use original size screws to hold the wiring harness clips, washer bottle bracket, heater hose bracket, horn relay and everything else the prior owner(s) hacked up on my car. I can't imagine having drywall screws, aluminum plates with pop rivits or picture frame mounting hardware all over my Corvette.