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Throttle Body Spacer Install Pix
#1
Drifting
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Throttle Body Spacer Install Pix
Just got done installing a 1" aluminum throttle body spacer.
Spacer came from EBAY for $50.00 delivered.
I found out after receipt that the seller was the forum member who had posted and sold these earlier in the year for around $100.00.
Very nice machined part, comes with longer bolts, washers and gasket.
Installed with a SLP Blackwing, so the stock accordian coupler was too long to be used. Perfect fit is the HTS375400T4-3 silicon reducer.
3.75" ID on the MAF side and 4.00" ID on the TB side. The silicon reducer is 3" long. Easy to drill a hole to accept the barbed vacuum line.
I noticed that the Vararam requires two couplers, whereas the SLP uses only one as the MAF fits directly into the airbridge.
Started the car several times, let it run until it reached operating temperature and no codes !
I'll take it out tomorrow for a road test !!
Only thing I noticed is a slight intermittant high frequency sound ( whistle ? ) that seems to be coming from the vacuum insert. Checked and no leaks. Anybody else notice this ?
Don't know why Vararam didn't use a machined aluminum spacer, much better fit and appearance the the non metallic flexible unit they supply.
#3
Drifting
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Originally Posted by Rphvette
nice!!! Where did you get the silicone coupler?
BT
BT
This is the only place that I was able to find that carries the correct 3.75" x 4.00" ID reducers. Most carry the 3.50" x 4.00" ID which is a tight fit on the MAF.
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...cat=341&page=1
#5
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Nice looking install. Very sanitary.
Vararam guys - listen up! These are the couplers you need, especially for the front, if you're going to replace the factory airbridge. I used the 3 1/2 x 4 HTS couplers and wish I would have looked further and found these 3 3/4 x 4 units. I didn't have any trouble on the backside of the MAF to TB joint (in fact, I think I would use 3 3/4 x 3 3/4 there if I did it again). The front neck of MAF is about 1/8" larger than the tail, and even when hot, these couplers only stretch so far. I did get it to fit, but it was a [U]HELL[U] of a struggle. You definately need the 4" end to mate to the snoot of the Vararam, so the 3 3/4 x 4 would be perfect there.
RBYCC - Concerning the whistle, I'll bet it's because that fitting now seats down into the airflow a ways. If you notice, the stock air bridge keeps the tip flush with the ID of the tube. I didn't want the fitting sticking down into the airflow any more than I had to, so I sort of split the difference. I cut a spacer out of tight-fitting fuel line maybe 1/2" long and slid it on the fitting before putting the fitting into the coupler. The bottom barb on fitting just protrudes through. I don't hear a whistle from it, but I'm getting pretty deaf, so who knows? What you might also be able to do is shorten up the length of the tip, maybe with a slight angle cut. As you know, the reducer puts a slight angle on how the fitting sits, so if your going to cut, give that some thought in relation to airflow.
BTW is the tint on your photos off or is that coupler orange? Whatever, it sure seems to match your FRCs nicely!
Vararam guys - listen up! These are the couplers you need, especially for the front, if you're going to replace the factory airbridge. I used the 3 1/2 x 4 HTS couplers and wish I would have looked further and found these 3 3/4 x 4 units. I didn't have any trouble on the backside of the MAF to TB joint (in fact, I think I would use 3 3/4 x 3 3/4 there if I did it again). The front neck of MAF is about 1/8" larger than the tail, and even when hot, these couplers only stretch so far. I did get it to fit, but it was a [U]HELL[U] of a struggle. You definately need the 4" end to mate to the snoot of the Vararam, so the 3 3/4 x 4 would be perfect there.
RBYCC - Concerning the whistle, I'll bet it's because that fitting now seats down into the airflow a ways. If you notice, the stock air bridge keeps the tip flush with the ID of the tube. I didn't want the fitting sticking down into the airflow any more than I had to, so I sort of split the difference. I cut a spacer out of tight-fitting fuel line maybe 1/2" long and slid it on the fitting before putting the fitting into the coupler. The bottom barb on fitting just protrudes through. I don't hear a whistle from it, but I'm getting pretty deaf, so who knows? What you might also be able to do is shorten up the length of the tip, maybe with a slight angle cut. As you know, the reducer puts a slight angle on how the fitting sits, so if your going to cut, give that some thought in relation to airflow.
BTW is the tint on your photos off or is that coupler orange? Whatever, it sure seems to match your FRCs nicely!
#6
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Originally Posted by hayseed51
Nice looking install. Very sanitary.
RBYCC - Concerning the whistle, I'll bet it's because that fitting now seats down into the airflow a ways. If you notice, the stock air bridge keeps the tip flush with the ID of the tube. I didn't want the fitting sticking down into the airflow any more than I had to, so I sort of split the difference. I cut a spacer out of tight-fitting fuel line maybe 1/2" long and slid it on the fitting before putting the fitting into the coupler. The bottom barb on fitting just protrudes through. I don't hear a whistle from it, but I'm getting pretty deaf, so who knows? What you might also be able to do is shorten up the length of the tip, maybe with a slight angle cut. As you know, the reducer puts a slight angle on how the fitting sits, so if your going to cut, give that some thought in relation to airflow.
BTW is the tint on your photos off or is that coupler orange? Whatever, it sure seems to match your FRCs nicely!
RBYCC - Concerning the whistle, I'll bet it's because that fitting now seats down into the airflow a ways. If you notice, the stock air bridge keeps the tip flush with the ID of the tube. I didn't want the fitting sticking down into the airflow any more than I had to, so I sort of split the difference. I cut a spacer out of tight-fitting fuel line maybe 1/2" long and slid it on the fitting before putting the fitting into the coupler. The bottom barb on fitting just protrudes through. I don't hear a whistle from it, but I'm getting pretty deaf, so who knows? What you might also be able to do is shorten up the length of the tip, maybe with a slight angle cut. As you know, the reducer puts a slight angle on how the fitting sits, so if your going to cut, give that some thought in relation to airflow.
BTW is the tint on your photos off or is that coupler orange? Whatever, it sure seems to match your FRCs nicely!
I was thinking the same thing that the fitting was too deep into the airflow, whereas the stock accordian coupler had a boss that the fitting inserted into keeping it out of the flow.
I'll play with pulling it out a bit at a time to see when the whistle stops, at that point, if there are no leaks, I might just leave it that way !!!
The noise isn't constant and with the hood closed it's not noticeable.
I was listening hard looking for a problem !!!
Color is the standard HTS glossy red, just installed with the white logo to the bottom. Shading in the pix slightly off as I couldn't get the best lighting camera angle !
I'm going out now to road test to see if I feel a difference
#7
Tech Contributor
Just a heads up for those it applies to:
If you have a FAST manifold and a stock airbridge, the spacer may push the TB too far forward to fit without modding. The FAST pushes things forward quite a bit.
If you have a FAST manifold and a stock airbridge, the spacer may push the TB too far forward to fit without modding. The FAST pushes things forward quite a bit.
#8
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Originally Posted by hayseed51
RBYCC - Concerning the whistle, I'll bet it's because that fitting now seats down into the airflow a ways.
Road tested for about sixty miles and I conclude:
THROTTLE BODY SPACERS DO WORK !!!
Noticed much improved response through out the range, no hesitation at all with an A6. Stronger pull in fifth and sixth gears.
I can only speak for the aluminum piece which cannot distort as the flexible piece may.
I've noticed in some pix using the Vararam spacer that the TB isn't square to the intake.
#10
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Originally Posted by Dinger2u
Would this be beneficial to all of us with Halltech intakes as well?
Configuration of the SLP, Halltech, K&N very similar.
The theory applies to all filters as it is the greater volume created behind the throttle body that improves throttle response.
I'm sure it would offer response improvement with the stock setup.
#12
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Originally Posted by Dinger2u
do you remember who you bought it from? I just searched ebay and could not find any.
Seller is JG425PJ, you might want to email him to see if he has any left.
He is the fabricator of the piece and had posted it early this year on the forum.
You might do an archived forum search for aluminum throttle body spacers