distributor end play
11-15-2006, 02:06 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
distributor end play
I got my shim kit that Lars recommended but wanted to make sure that these go on the shaft after removing the drive gear? How do I measure the end play so I know which washers to use? Thanks!
11-15-2006, 02:16 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
You need to remove the gear, make sure you pay attention to the dimple on the gear, it needs to align with the rotor. There should be a shim or two already above the gear so just add as needed. Use a feeler gage to set your axial play.
11-15-2006, 02:31 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Before removing the end gear measure the play between the gear and distributor housing with a feeler gauge. (example the play reads .045 ")
You need to add about .04 in shims to get within the .002-.007 spec.
You need to add about .04 in shims to get within the .002-.007 spec.
11-15-2006, 05:00 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Where does the advance stop bushing go . . . I'm looking on the mech advance and there is no place large enough for the bushing??
11-15-2006, 05:05 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by rowingone
Where does the advance stop bushing go . . . I'm looking on the mech advance and there is no place large enough for the bushing??
11-15-2006, 05:17 PM
#7
Cam/Distributor Gear Oiling
While your setting up the end play take a few extra minutes and
"modify" the lower oil passage band on the housing to get more oil down directly to the gears where they meet. It will extend gear life immeasurably. We perform this mod on all distributors now, especially with the "Bronze" gear on the steel cams. Works well on all units and very simple to do! Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Here's a photo of the procedure taken from directly from the
"Crane Cams" catalog.
"modify" the lower oil passage band on the housing to get more oil down directly to the gears where they meet. It will extend gear life immeasurably. We perform this mod on all distributors now, especially with the "Bronze" gear on the steel cams. Works well on all units and very simple to do! Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Here's a photo of the procedure taken from directly from the
"Crane Cams" catalog.
11-15-2006, 07:01 PM
#9
Race Director
Be careful that you don't over-shim. The amount of end play out of the motor may be greater than the amount of end play when installed in the motor with a gasket and tolerances, etc. This will bind it up to some degree and definately isn't a good procedure. When installed back in the motor you should still be able to have a some very slight movement. Probably checking shaft end play with a dial indicator set up in the motor is the best approach.
Dan
Dan
11-15-2006, 10:30 PM
#10
Safety Car
Originally Posted by DansYellow66
Be careful that you don't over-shim. The amount of end play out of the motor may be greater than the amount of end play when installed in the motor with a gasket and tolerances, etc. This will bind it up to some degree and definately isn't a good procedure. When installed back in the motor you should still be able to have a some very slight movement. Probably checking shaft end play with a dial indicator set up in the motor is the best approach.
Dan
Dan
You can check for any clearence with a feeler guage under the mounting flange by installing the dist sans gasket. If you have a gap there you can subtract a shim from the stack. The gasket will provide enough extra clearence.
12-29-2006, 02:26 PM
#12
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
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Just use a vacuum advance that meets your spec requirements - skip the vacuum stop bushing. For most performance applications, the VC1765 (NAPA) is ideal. If you have a big cam and low vacuum, run the VC1810. These will get you 16 degrees of vacuum advance without a bushing, and that's perfect in combination with a 36-degree total advance curve.
On your shaft endplay, don't set it tighter than about .007", although I've successfully run them down to about .005" without galling the shims. You have to have a little space for expansion and contraction of the parts under temperature. On the aluminum-housing distributors, you have to run the endplay at no less than .010", with .015" being preferable.
When you install the brass mechanical advance stop bushing, smack the bushing on the side with a hammer before you install it to make it a little oval-shaped. This will make it fit really snug on the pin. If it doesn't fit really snug, it will eventually fall off, and it will ground out your points if it falls in just the wrong place (I've seen it happen twice...).
On your shaft endplay, don't set it tighter than about .007", although I've successfully run them down to about .005" without galling the shims. You have to have a little space for expansion and contraction of the parts under temperature. On the aluminum-housing distributors, you have to run the endplay at no less than .010", with .015" being preferable.
When you install the brass mechanical advance stop bushing, smack the bushing on the side with a hammer before you install it to make it a little oval-shaped. This will make it fit really snug on the pin. If it doesn't fit really snug, it will eventually fall off, and it will ground out your points if it falls in just the wrong place (I've seen it happen twice...).
Last edited by lars; 12-29-2006 at 02:32 PM.
12-29-2006, 02:29 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
