[Z06] Racing Brake's stock replacement two-piece rotors
#101
If you can't play the game don't play. A Z06 isn't cheap but $360 for a rotor is really a small change for the type of car the C6 Z06 is, after all it brakes as good as other $200000 cars.
Please don't take it personal, I am not saying you are cheap or humble but the price for a set of two piece quality rotors doesn't seem that expensive to me..
my .2c
#102
Burning Brakes
Yeah but for $35 you are getting a POS rotors. Small, cheap, heavy, poor quality, thin and off course one single fat heavy piece that most likely will crack.
If you can't play the game don't play. A Z06 isn't cheap but $360 for a rotor is really a small change for the type of car the C6 Z06 is, after all it brakes as good as other $200000 cars.
Please don't take it personal, I am not saying you are cheap or humble but the price for a set of two piece quality rotors doesn't seem that expensive to me..
my .2c
If you can't play the game don't play. A Z06 isn't cheap but $360 for a rotor is really a small change for the type of car the C6 Z06 is, after all it brakes as good as other $200000 cars.
Please don't take it personal, I am not saying you are cheap or humble but the price for a set of two piece quality rotors doesn't seem that expensive to me..
my .2c
#103
Race Director
Yeah but for $35 you are getting a POS rotors. Small, cheap, heavy, poor quality, thin and off course one single fat heavy piece that most likely will crack.
If you can't play the game don't play. A Z06 isn't cheap but $360 for a rotor is really a small change for the type of car the C6 Z06 is, after all it brakes as good as other $200000 cars.
Please don't take it personal, I am not saying you are cheap or humble but the price for a set of two piece quality rotors doesn't seem that expensive to me..
my .2c
If you can't play the game don't play. A Z06 isn't cheap but $360 for a rotor is really a small change for the type of car the C6 Z06 is, after all it brakes as good as other $200000 cars.
Please don't take it personal, I am not saying you are cheap or humble but the price for a set of two piece quality rotors doesn't seem that expensive to me..
my .2c
#104
I've been running the racing brake rotors my 2007 Z06 for over a year and a half now and they are awesome.
I have just replaced the rotors. Since they are a two piece rotor, you only have to by the rotor and use the original hat. It took me about an hour to make the change. You do need a torque wrench that will let you torque to 96 in lb (8 ft lb).
I am a NASA instructor, and run in group 4 and starting in October doing TT.
Harry
I have just replaced the rotors. Since they are a two piece rotor, you only have to by the rotor and use the original hat. It took me about an hour to make the change. You do need a torque wrench that will let you torque to 96 in lb (8 ft lb).
I am a NASA instructor, and run in group 4 and starting in October doing TT.
Harry
#105
Burning Brakes
After frequenting forums for the past 10 years, by far, this was the BEST post I've ever read. There are lots of references to more detail, photos, and spirited conversation. Although, I especially liked how Racing Brake always kept his cool and simply stated his case.
John
John
#106
I been reading many brake posts . I quick question , what are the piston sizes in the stock Z06 brake calipers and what is the combined area of the 3 pads ?
I am guessing that if we are balancing the systems some one must have this info.
thanks
Brad
I am guessing that if we are balancing the systems some one must have this info.
thanks
Brad
#107
<FS> Racing Brake Front Rotors
If anyone needs a set of the Racing Brake front rotors (slotted only) I have a pair. Literally 95% life or better left on them.
I wound up getting a deal on a 4 wheel AP racing brake setup, so I took them off after a few weeks. They did work well while they were on.
Have their stainless lines & some extra pads too if anyone's interested, just PM me.
I wound up getting a deal on a 4 wheel AP racing brake setup, so I took them off after a few weeks. They did work well while they were on.
Have their stainless lines & some extra pads too if anyone's interested, just PM me.
#109
Race Director
I ran at Homestead last saturday w my friend so we had 2 drivers sharing the car
I was using Carbotech pads for the 1st time w otherwise stock rotors and thye had excellent feel, I liked them better than the 6 piece porterfields
Since we had 2 drivers it was like a 2 day event, the front pads were fried but the rears still had a weekend left in them
This weekend w NASA at Homestead I'll try the Racing brake rotors on the front, stock on back w Hawk pads and see how they work
Next week I plan on upgrading to 380mm Brembos all around
I was using Carbotech pads for the 1st time w otherwise stock rotors and thye had excellent feel, I liked them better than the 6 piece porterfields
Since we had 2 drivers it was like a 2 day event, the front pads were fried but the rears still had a weekend left in them
This weekend w NASA at Homestead I'll try the Racing brake rotors on the front, stock on back w Hawk pads and see how they work
Next week I plan on upgrading to 380mm Brembos all around
#111
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2007
Location: "Freedom or Die..." South, FL
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One stock rotor cost me $165 from the dealer. $408 for a two piece! I guess if I tracked the car the weight savings would be a big issue. I'm just a daily driver though.
Last edited by OneSickZ06; 01-09-2009 at 11:56 PM.
#112
[One question though. The car seems very "squirly" under heavy braking now and I don't know if it is the use of ST43s front and rear or the fact I have really worn the shoulders of the front left tyre.
The car never used to tramline but now that tyre is worn, it does seem to follow cambers and unsettle under braking.
Has anyone else ever noticed this with worn front tyres or is it a brake bias issue with very grippy race pads front and rear?][/QUOTE]
I had the same problem at Watkins Glen running RB 700 pads on stock rotors. Front end was squirrely and brake pedal felt soft. Had an instructor with me who also drove the car. Through him I was put in touch with a well placed and knowledgeable person who called me to discuss the issue. Without being able to prove anything, we came to the consensus that the ceramic/metallic pads were not well suited to the overall performance of the braking system; they were grabbing the rotors and overcoming the tire grip, causing lock up and engaging the ABS. It was a late fall weekend just before I put the Z away for the winter, and the track was relatively cold; I had not had a similar problem with the same setup at Mosport earlier in the year, so the explanation did have some logic to me. Just so you have the whole picture, I was on Pirelli P Zeros with 18" wheels on all four corners, only other alteration was stainless steel brake lines, stock fluid. I will pass along to you what I was told, and that is that some tracks, sponsoring bodies, and events preclude you using this type of pad; doubt anyone would ever pick that up on a tech inspection, and I have never been asked about it, but I guess it is conceivable.
The car never used to tramline but now that tyre is worn, it does seem to follow cambers and unsettle under braking.
Has anyone else ever noticed this with worn front tyres or is it a brake bias issue with very grippy race pads front and rear?][/QUOTE]
I had the same problem at Watkins Glen running RB 700 pads on stock rotors. Front end was squirrely and brake pedal felt soft. Had an instructor with me who also drove the car. Through him I was put in touch with a well placed and knowledgeable person who called me to discuss the issue. Without being able to prove anything, we came to the consensus that the ceramic/metallic pads were not well suited to the overall performance of the braking system; they were grabbing the rotors and overcoming the tire grip, causing lock up and engaging the ABS. It was a late fall weekend just before I put the Z away for the winter, and the track was relatively cold; I had not had a similar problem with the same setup at Mosport earlier in the year, so the explanation did have some logic to me. Just so you have the whole picture, I was on Pirelli P Zeros with 18" wheels on all four corners, only other alteration was stainless steel brake lines, stock fluid. I will pass along to you what I was told, and that is that some tracks, sponsoring bodies, and events preclude you using this type of pad; doubt anyone would ever pick that up on a tech inspection, and I have never been asked about it, but I guess it is conceivable.
#114
Instructor
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#117
Burning Brakes
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Racing Brake Passes the Test of Time!
Years later I am still running Racing Brake rotors and am on my second set of rotor rings having retired the car from active NASA TTU competition. The three piece rear rotors performed perfectly and never loosened or had any problems. Last time I ran, I had fresh DTC 70's front and rear and the rotors were just as stout and sound as when new. This is my street car now and I run Hawk HPS pads for the street on the same trusty Racing Brake rotors!
Still, in my opinion, a big bang for the buck!
Thanks Warren!
Rudy
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/testimonials.asp
Still, in my opinion, a big bang for the buck!
Thanks Warren!
Rudy
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/testimonials.asp
Last edited by AZ FASTEST; 01-14-2011 at 01:41 AM.
#119
Law Dawg Moderator