doc427

Hi, I´m searching for advice concerning a swap from drums to discbrakes.I own a 64 convertible and want to enhance breaking, but i would need a conversion kit, that contains every part I need for the work, that needs no welding or other alterations and is really a "bolt on" solution. A booster would also be desirable.If anyone in this forum has a advice, I would be happy to know. thanks in advance doc427

ctjackster

I think the advice you will see is that a properly-functioning 64 Drum brake set-up will not see a tremendous improvement by going to a basic 65 + disk brake set-up. But I certainly appreciate an owner's desire to improve al aspects of performance.

I have a 65 with the discs, and it is not to be confused with a modern disc brake set-up on a sports car. Just to set your expectations . . .

vintagecorvette

1963-64 have large drums that if functioning properly will stop very well. Buy quality shoes and cylinders, have the shoes arch to fit the drums, chamfer the edge of the shoes, bleed the system properly and you should be fine.

oWEN

capevettes

I agree with the other posters that it simply isn't worth the time and expense to convert to a system that will provide marginal improvement. I would just make sure your drum set-up is functioning as designed. But it's not my car

silver67

The parking/emergency brake on the 63/64 works better also. (i.m.o.)

Dick Horzen

This is a more-than-correct statement, about 1965 vs modern disc brake set-up. When my 1965 was washed and I used to much water, or just washing the wheels and tires, the car would not stop......

Frapps

I won't give you any "advise" but I will tell you what I did on my 64 Resto-Rod.

I sent the t-arms to Van Steel and got an upgrade to 65 t-arms. I found some 65 front spindles, caliper brackets and steering knuckles on E-bay, put longer studs in my 64 front hubs, bought new disc brakes, calipers and bearings from Van Steel. BOLTED it all on. Oh yeah, bought a 65 emergency brake cable, "bolted" it on as well.

Now take into account that I still have the body off the frame so I can't speak to performance but I just feel better having them on there.

Frapps


(Oh and there is one "gotcha" in there if you go this way. PM me and I'll fill you in.)

John S 1961

see engineered components or master power, bolt in but stand ready with a few adjusting tools. Drums are ancient, why do you think the factories replaced them? With all due respect to the boys that will tell you "if the drum set up is functioning perfectly they are adequate". I guess I would agree, Barely tolerable(if that means adequate), but really IN-adequate, dont get them wet. Discs are far superior. Do you have to ever drive in traffic or a freeway? Or is everything always open roads in very unpopulated areas, parades, parking lots, moving onto trailers.....then they may be OK....BARELY. Then, getting your drum set up "functioning perfectly" well thats another long story in itself, notice how the above post says do all that special dialing in and tuning of the drums and pads. Not necessary with a disc set up. I have my old drums sitting in a box I just happened to move around the shop last night, I thought: my god are those things heavy.....read massive unsprung weight, read no wonder its so hard to control the tires over bumps. Dump the drums (in a lake), they are a hazard!!!

richbopp

On my current 64 I have redone the brakes. I put on new wheel cyclinders, shoes and cut the drums. One of the important things was to drain/flush the fluid and put in synthectic fluid. It helps to keep corrosion out of the lines and has a more stable viscosity.

My 64 now stops on a dime. As good as my 65 with original disc system.

I agree that it's not worth the effort or expense. I'd do power steering instead.

66since71

I don't think the issue is braking power. Either system will lockup the tires (although disks should be easier to 'modulate')

If you have ever experienced real brake fade, you will make the conversion. My experiences are coming down a long hill on a winding road, and having to blow past a turn on an airport (fortunately) road course.

ghostrider20

Tom's 64 Coupe

Here are some pics of the setup that my son restored for my 64. We had to replace the frame on my car and luckily the replacement 64 frame from California already had the front brakes converted to a 65 disc setup. The brakes do lock up easily now, but i am confident that a proportioning valve will fix the problem. In my opinion the brakes operate much better than before and as mentioned above, the transfer did help to illiminate some weight. Those old drum setups are extremely heavy. I am sure my son would be glad to help you out. he is always blasting and powdercoating parts and it didnt take him long to do these,a day i think, including installing new bearings. However, by the time everything is said and done, it might be cheaper to purchase the Wildwood conversion.

toddalin

In the past, both Guldstrand Motorsports and Vette Brakes and Products offered complete swap kits. These may no longer be available, but you may get hold of them and see if they have any left (or have suggestions).

The alternative is just to find a disk brake "donor" car ('65+). Take everything between the ball joints.

I pulled the parts of a '75 and except for enlarging one hole on the existing '64 spindle one size, it was a direct bolt on. (One spindle on the '75 was bent so I used the '64 spindles.) I retained the rear drums and had to add a proportioning and residual valve tied into the rear line.

BTW, you will also need to change the wheels or add a 1/8" spacer as the stock wheels will rub the calipers.

7vettes

My '64 was an original Power Brake car, but I was never happy with the drums. We lived in Vero Beach on the Florida east coast and I drove the car across state to leave it with Van Steel in Largo over on the Gulf Coast, to have a good bit of work done.

On the way over I almost had several prangs, especially in the Tampa morning rush hour traffic. When I got to their shop I was so disgusted & aggitated with those brakes that I told Artie to convert the car to VB&P 4-wheel discs while they had it over there.

Best money I ever spent on the car, and I haven't had to touch those brakes in the 10+ years since then. And somewhere in Ft Pierce, Florida there's a skateboarding dude who can thank those brakes for saving his idiot life. It wasn't more than 2 weeks after I got the car back home, on US 1 in Ft. Pierce that idiot shot across 2 lanes of stopped south-bound traffic, directly into the path of my north-bound & accelerating Vette. He couldn't have been more than 3 car-lengths in front when I slammed on the brakes, stopped instantly and saved the kid's life.

BTW, the little bastich flipped me the bird when he reached the sidewalk.

Pop Chevy

I just pulled the whole front suspension off my 78 frame to do a C-4 conversion. If you are interested in it let me know. I will sell it cheap. Whatever parts you want. If it was my car I wouldn't think twice about the change. In the past I have owned both versions and the discs win!
Pops

63Corvette

You are quite mistaken. If you drive only on the street then the properly adjusted drums will suffice.

However, if you RACE your Corvette, as God and Zora Duntov intended, then you will find that the original drums...and even the "High Performance" Z06 drums are useless!
You will also find that stock K-H (Corvette) disc brakes WITH MODERN RACE PADS and (warm) race tires (Hoosier Street TDs) will stop with any modern stock disc brake system that is offered stock by a manufacturer.

66since71

..........for the most part.

Still, if you drive in the mountains or if you plan an occasional highspeed autocross, brake fade will be a factor.

If you stay with drums, your selection of linings will make a difference. There was an SAE standard for rating linings for hot and cold performance. Get the best hot performance you can. I'll do some research and get back with you on the rating system, if no one else has it readily available. Seems like FF pads/linings were always the best. (the code is printed on the edge of the lining material)

Like I said in my last post, if you ever experience near total loss of brakes to fade, you will upgrade to discs without question.

66since71

An update on lining codes.. from some Google searches..

Apparently the standard changed to be more application specific in 1999. Linings for cars built after 1999 will have pads certified this way. There is no requirement for the standard to apply to earlier cars. It is not clear whether the old standard is still unversally used. It appears that the truck industry continues to use it. Look for two letters to use the old code. The first is cold coefficient of friction, the second is hot.
The letters read:

C = not over.15
D = over .15 but not over .25
E = over .25 but not over .35
F = over .35 but not over .45
G = over .45 but not over .55
H = over .55

coefficients higher than F are rarely seen on cars. Some racing pads may be graded G.

If anyone has any more insight, please let us know!

chris sale

I would strongly recommend changing to disk brakes, certainly for the front. I am fortunate to be close to some good fast mountain roads and I agree that properly set up drums can work well - but only for the first two downhill stops from high speed. After that you have nothing - not a nice experience!

I put later model disks on the fromt of my '64 coupe about 5 years ago and the only regret I have is that I didn't make the change much earlier. I kept the drums on the rear because that way I know I have a good parking brake. I use a front-rear proportioning valve and the car now stops just great all the time.

Hope this helps with your decision!

Chris Sale
'64 Coupe
NCRS 11971

mudbone64

I would like to hear from the C1 guys about their drum brakes. I have yet to drive my 64 since it is as of this date a POS. When I do finally get to drive it I will be able to compare the braking capability to my 72 BB which will lock'em up at 55 easy (I've had to do it). Until then, I won't know. My first vehicle was a 67 El Camino and though I was 16 at the time, I believe it had drums all around. Both me and the car somehow survived and I don't remeber the brakes being so dangerous. I'm curious to find out if some people feel the need to convert their 63 & 64 brakes to 65 and up just because everybody else has them or is it a real safety issue. Believe me I'm not trying to be difficult, just curious.