Crown Vic Fan Road test results
10-10-2006, 10:38 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Crown Vic Fan Road test results
This is an update on the earlier thread.
First thing: Here is a pic of the old rad.
It seriously needed to be replaced. I soldered the leaks when I got the car until I aquired a new rad. It still held 30psi with no leaks.
Second:
I changed the location of hot fused wire providing power to the fan from the (BAT) post on the alternater to the battery post of the starter. This solved the voltage drop problem I was having. I used 12ga wire to handle the load with a 40amp fuse.
Road Test Results:
I took the vette out for a 30 mile test run. The trip out was rural roads behind a school bus then open highway cruise at 70mph the speed where it would overheat in the past. The return trip was open highway then stop & go traffic.
I can say this, upgrading to this fan is great!! It is like driving a totaly different Vette. The coolant temps never past the 200* mark, and only got that high in the heavy traffic. At this point the fan would come on, and the temps would fall to 150+/-* on the gauge.
During highway cruising I never saw the coolant temp exceed 160+/-* and the fan works flawlessly.
I will need to change the 160* Tstat to a 180*unit. I think the engine is running too cold.
The other positive side effect is that the car seems to have more power, due to not having the parasitic lose from the stock fan, and it idles smoother.
I am going to install a LED indicator on the dash so I know when the fan is on.
Again This is the best Mod Yet. I'm so excited I just might have to chase the wife around the house
DR.Jay
First thing: Here is a pic of the old rad.
It seriously needed to be replaced. I soldered the leaks when I got the car until I aquired a new rad. It still held 30psi with no leaks.
Second:
I changed the location of hot fused wire providing power to the fan from the (BAT) post on the alternater to the battery post of the starter. This solved the voltage drop problem I was having. I used 12ga wire to handle the load with a 40amp fuse.
Road Test Results:
I took the vette out for a 30 mile test run. The trip out was rural roads behind a school bus then open highway cruise at 70mph the speed where it would overheat in the past. The return trip was open highway then stop & go traffic.
I can say this, upgrading to this fan is great!! It is like driving a totaly different Vette. The coolant temps never past the 200* mark, and only got that high in the heavy traffic. At this point the fan would come on, and the temps would fall to 150+/-* on the gauge.
During highway cruising I never saw the coolant temp exceed 160+/-* and the fan works flawlessly.
I will need to change the 160* Tstat to a 180*unit. I think the engine is running too cold.The other positive side effect is that the car seems to have more power, due to not having the parasitic lose from the stock fan, and it idles smoother.
I am going to install a LED indicator on the dash so I know when the fan is on.
Again This is the best Mod Yet. I'm so excited I just might have to chase the wife around the house
DR.Jay
10-11-2006, 07:58 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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The chase was successful, but it was a bit tricky, and took some stratagey as I had to be sure the kids were asleep in bed, and the dogs were outside.
10-11-2006, 08:05 AM
#5
Team Owner
Originally Posted by DR.Jay
The chase was successful, but it was a bit tricky, and took some stratagey as I had to be sure the kids were asleep in bed, and the dogs were outside.
A couple thoughts.....you should be using #8 wire for that circuit, and it should be running from the alternator stud directly, and the alt frame directly through your fuse and controller, obviously.....
as it is, you are depending on your fuse link or fused circuit to the battery to carry all you fan power, and that upsets the charging to the battery, it's not getting full power because of voltage drops not picked up by the system, which essentially sees alt output, and thinks the battery is happy, when in fact it's not, by probably over .5 volt, which to charge a battery and keep it happy is quite a bit.....
10-11-2006, 08:19 AM
#6
Drifting
Originally Posted by DR.Jay
This is an update on the earlier thread.
First thing: Here is a pic of the old rad.
It seriously needed to be replaced. I soldered the leaks when I got the car until I aquired a new rad. It still held 30psi with no leaks.
Second:
I changed the location of hot fused wire providing power to the fan from the (BAT) post on the alternater to the battery post of the starter. This solved the voltage drop problem I was having. I used 12ga wire to handle the load with a 40amp fuse.
Road Test Results:
I took the vette out for a 30 mile test run. The trip out was rural roads behind a school bus then open highway cruise at 70mph the speed where it would overheat in the past. The return trip was open highway then stop & go traffic.
I can say this, upgrading to this fan is great!! It is like driving a totaly different Vette. The coolant temps never past the 200* mark, and only got that high in the heavy traffic. At this point the fan would come on, and the temps would fall to 150+/-* on the gauge.
During highway cruising I never saw the coolant temp exceed 160+/-* and the fan works flawlessly. I will need to change the 160* Tstat to a 180*unit. I think the engine is running too cold.
The other positive side effect is that the car seems to have more power, due to not having the parasitic lose from the stock fan, and it idles smoother.
I am going to install a LED indicator on the dash so I know when the fan is on.
Again This is the best Mod Yet. I'm so excited I just might have to chase the wife around the house
DR.Jay
First thing: Here is a pic of the old rad.
It seriously needed to be replaced. I soldered the leaks when I got the car until I aquired a new rad. It still held 30psi with no leaks.
Second:
I changed the location of hot fused wire providing power to the fan from the (BAT) post on the alternater to the battery post of the starter. This solved the voltage drop problem I was having. I used 12ga wire to handle the load with a 40amp fuse.
Road Test Results:
I took the vette out for a 30 mile test run. The trip out was rural roads behind a school bus then open highway cruise at 70mph the speed where it would overheat in the past. The return trip was open highway then stop & go traffic.
I can say this, upgrading to this fan is great!! It is like driving a totaly different Vette. The coolant temps never past the 200* mark, and only got that high in the heavy traffic. At this point the fan would come on, and the temps would fall to 150+/-* on the gauge.
During highway cruising I never saw the coolant temp exceed 160+/-* and the fan works flawlessly.
I will need to change the 160* Tstat to a 180*unit. I think the engine is running too cold.The other positive side effect is that the car seems to have more power, due to not having the parasitic lose from the stock fan, and it idles smoother.
I am going to install a LED indicator on the dash so I know when the fan is on.
Again This is the best Mod Yet. I'm so excited I just might have to chase the wife around the house
DR.Jay
I would definitely use at least 10 if not 8 gauge wire. Other than that cant wait to do mine.
ESU
10-11-2006, 08:24 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
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With every ones suggestions I will be changing to 10ga wire this evening for the hot side of the fan. I will also change to a 180* t-stat.
Last edited by DR.Jay; 10-11-2006 at 08:27 AM.
10-11-2006, 08:48 AM
#8
Another suggestion. Due to Bubba butchering the the main power feed wire near the firewall under the brake booster, I cleaned it up and added a fan and electric headlight actuators by mounting a buss bar on the wheel well under the drivers side fender. I like it so much, I am thinking of adding a ground buss bar as well.
10-11-2006, 08:49 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by mrvette
A couple thoughts.....you should be using #8 wire for that circuit, and it should be running from the alternator stud directly, and the alt frame directly through your fuse and controller, obviously.....
by probably over .5 volt, which to charge a battery and keep it happy is quite a bit.....
as it is, you are depending on your fuse link or fused circuit to the battery to carry all you fan power, and that upsets the charging to the battery, it's not getting full power because of voltage drops not picked up by the system, which essentially sees alt output, and thinks the battery is happy, when in fact it's not,
Why does GM have all the fuseable links attached to the positive terminal on the starter? I thought that the battery being a storage device acted as a buffer.
That is why you don't disconnect the positive cable from the battery while the engine is running as it can, and sometimes will spike the voltage destroying an alternator, and other electical components (ignition moduals).
I don't want to start this huge debate, I'm just curious.
Knowing why a method for doing a task is correct to me is just as important as the task itself.
10-11-2006, 08:51 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by 76vette1
Another suggestion. Due to Bubba butchering the the main power feed wire near the firewall under the brake booster, I cleaned it up and added a fan and electric headlight actuators by mounting a buss bar on the wheel well under the drivers side fender. I like it so much, I am thinking of adding a ground buss bar as well.
10-11-2006, 09:21 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by DR.Jay
I have a question.
Why does GM have all the fuseable links attached to the positive terminal on the starter?
Why does GM have all the fuseable links attached to the positive terminal on the starter?
10-11-2006, 10:02 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
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The amp draw by the starter is hugh and the fusable links are there just in case there might be an electrical situation occur that would cause a fire.
Bernie
Bernie
10-12-2006, 08:38 PM
#13
Originally Posted by DR.Jay
Do you have pics to share? I'm interested.
10-12-2006, 08:48 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
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I am trying to understand this post by mrvette.
[QUOTE]as it is, you are depending on your fuse link or fused circuit to the battery to carry all you fan power, and that upsets the charging to the battery, it's not getting full power because of voltage drops not picked up by the system, which essentially sees alt output, and thinks the battery is happy, when in fact it's not, by probably over .5 volt, which to charge a battery and keep it happy is quite a bit.....[/QUOTE]
Thats why I asked "why does GM have all the fuseable links attached to the positive terminal on the starter?" Even the Camaro I have has its electric fans wired to the battery.
Am I wrong by attaching my fused hot lead for the fan to the positive battery terminal on the starter? If so why? An inquiring mind that is out of beer wants to know.
[QUOTE]as it is, you are depending on your fuse link or fused circuit to the battery to carry all you fan power, and that upsets the charging to the battery, it's not getting full power because of voltage drops not picked up by the system, which essentially sees alt output, and thinks the battery is happy, when in fact it's not, by probably over .5 volt, which to charge a battery and keep it happy is quite a bit.....[/QUOTE]
Thats why I asked "why does GM have all the fuseable links attached to the positive terminal on the starter?" Even the Camaro I have has its electric fans wired to the battery.
Am I wrong by attaching my fused hot lead for the fan to the positive battery terminal on the starter? If so why? An inquiring mind that is out of beer wants to know.
10-12-2006, 08:54 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by 76vette1
I can't get pics of the car, because it is in the body shop. Here is a pic of the buss bar. It is available through marine dealers. This brand is Blue Sea. They come in various sizes and are nickel plated copper.
10-12-2006, 09:02 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by rastadr
mr. why do you run off the alternator? im running off a #6 directly to the starter motor.
10-12-2006, 09:45 PM
#18
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The reason for running directly off the alternator is about keeping the high current path for the fans as short as possible. The fuse links are used to protect from a Dead Short, not an overcurrent situation and are designed to be more durable than a fuse of the same rating. They are under the hood because when it does go, it burns and will produce smoke, sparks etc, not something you want in the cabin. Jay, it sounds like your alternator is not quite up to the task of running the fan, thats why you got the voltage drop, the way you have it connected it is pulling most of its operating current from the battery.
I am not busting on your mod, looks like you did a good job, but sooner or later the alternator will let go, or it will suck the battery down. The buss bar idea is a good one, it should be powered directly from the alternator. I don't know what size your alt is, but I really think it needs an upgrade.
I am not busting on your mod, looks like you did a good job, but sooner or later the alternator will let go, or it will suck the battery down. The buss bar idea is a good one, it should be powered directly from the alternator. I don't know what size your alt is, but I really think it needs an upgrade.
10-12-2006, 09:54 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
The reason for running directly off the alternator is about keeping the high current path for the fans as short as possible. The fuse links are used to protect from a Dead Short, not an overcurrent situation and are designed to be more durable than a fuse of the same rating. They are under the hood because when it does go, it burns and will produce smoke, sparks etc, not something you want in the cabin. Jay, it sounds like your alternator is not quite up to the task of running the fan, thats why you got the voltage drop, the way you have it connected it is pulling most of its operating current from the battery.
I am not busting on your mod, looks like you did a good job, but sooner or later the alternator will let go, or it will suck the battery down. The buss bar idea is a good one, it should be powered directly from the alternator. I don't know what size your alt is, but I really think it needs an upgrade.
I am not busting on your mod, looks like you did a good job, but sooner or later the alternator will let go, or it will suck the battery down. The buss bar idea is a good one, it should be powered directly from the alternator. I don't know what size your alt is, but I really think it needs an upgrade.
It does not matter where you get the power for the fans from, it will still put the same load on the alternator. Personally, I would run a dedicated 8 gauge wire from the starter motor big terminal. Use fuse link to protect the wiring. Get a CS-144 alternator or some other unit capable of sourcing at least 100 amps.
10-12-2006, 09:57 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
The reason for running directly off the alternator is about keeping the high current path for the fans as short as possible. The fuse links are used to protect from a Dead Short, not an overcurrent situation and are designed to be more durable than a fuse of the same rating. They are under the hood because when it does go, it burns and will produce smoke, sparks etc, not something you want in the cabin. Jay, it sounds like your alternator is not quite up to the task of running the fan, thats why you got the voltage drop, the way you have it connected it is pulling most of its operating current from the battery.
I am not busting on your mod, looks like you did a good job, but sooner or later the alternator will let go, or it will suck the battery down. The buss bar idea is a good one, it should be powered directly from the alternator. I don't know what size your alt is, but I really think it needs an upgrade.
I am not busting on your mod, looks like you did a good job, but sooner or later the alternator will let go, or it will suck the battery down. The buss bar idea is a good one, it should be powered directly from the alternator. I don't know what size your alt is, but I really think it needs an upgrade.