SlickSand and PPG primers and Urethane
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
SlickSand and PPG primers and Urethane
Are there any compatability issues with SlickSand used over K36 Urethane Primer and coated with DP40 with 402 catalyst and urethane color? Thank you for your advice.
#2
Dave I don't see anything in the product literature that says you cannot, both on the K-36 product sheet or the Slick Sand product sheet, although the Evercoat product sheet does say that pre-painted surfaces must be sanded. You can pull up the product sheets off of Evercoat and PPGs website although I can fax you the sheets if you want. Generally I have used them in the reverse order (slick sand over the fiberglass and then my other primers). What are you trying to accomplish?-is this to remedy your earlier adhesion problem? Good luck-Jim
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Jim-I saw many references on this forum about SlickSand and thought I would use it on a few areas that need to be built up to contour. I can continue to use the K36. Any other suggestions for the build coat? Thank you very much for the info.
#4
Dave, I actually like the slick sand better than K-36 although I have always used it right over sanded fiberglass or sanded filler. Once it kicks it does not seem to shrink as much as K-36 and it fills like crazy. Then I topcoat it with DP 40 or 90 with 401 hardener (the 401 has an induction period but years ago ran a bunch of adhesion tests with it and was very impressed). I have not used the 402 as much and some people tell me it is better suited to repair, although I do not know that to be a fact (I quess I stick with the 401 more because I am a creature of habit). After spraying the DP then you could use the K-36 or the OMNI equivalent for final priming and sanding since the DP products do not sand as well.
If you have K-36 already on the panel, I would stick with that but if you are going to go a bit thick you may want to warm the panel with a lamp about a half hour after you apply the K-36. Keep feeling with your hand, warm not hot and move the lamp (or lamps) around a bit. You don't have to leave it on the panel too long, each area about 20 minutes will help. It will help kick it and hopefully cut down on your shrinkage. Good luck -Jim
If you have K-36 already on the panel, I would stick with that but if you are going to go a bit thick you may want to warm the panel with a lamp about a half hour after you apply the K-36. Keep feeling with your hand, warm not hot and move the lamp (or lamps) around a bit. You don't have to leave it on the panel too long, each area about 20 minutes will help. It will help kick it and hopefully cut down on your shrinkage. Good luck -Jim
#6
Originally Posted by Dave Tracy
Are there any compatability issues with SlickSand used over K36 Urethane Primer and coated with DP40 with 402 catalyst and urethane color? Thank you for your advice.
#8
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Originally Posted by 66vert
Dave you should try the K38 primer . this is the replacement for K36 and it sands very easy with less sinkage. I have used K36 for years and now only use K38 and love it. Shawn
I will also give it a try for I have also been using K-36 for years. Is the 38 tintable like the 36??
And for those of you that used the 'original' DP stuff before the ;LF' came out that PPG's EPX-900/901 is the same as the original DP per PPG?? The only difference now is thats its a beige color.