burnin red

after I drive the car hard through first and second gear by the time I get to third the clutch pedal is almost on the floor, like it does not come back up where it should, I have to put my foot under it and pull it up then pump it, then it just keeps doing it unless I drive it really easy?
why is it doing this, the clutch does not slip and it works right off the floor, like it should?
if you know why it does this how do I fix it?
what parts do I need to buy and how do install them please help and thanks in advance you someone always knows what to do

mowton

This is a great subject and there are a million posts associated with this phenomenum. It is not known at this time but there are many theories from GM installed restrictions in the Master/Slave hydraulics to boiling clutch fluid.

Start here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=clutch+pedal

Ranger has the best posts realtive to preventative maintenance, but usually when you are at the point of asking this question, it is too late. Replacing the Slave is a RPITA as you have to drop the Exhaust, Tunnel Plate and Torque Tube.

Read on and good luck.

Ed

burnin red

thanks Ed, will try that over and over tomorrow

willyfastz

Best way to solve your problem is to just replace your clutch. May sound drastic but it's true, you will spend far less if you just go ahead and replace it with a good aftermarket setup. I'm guessing you have a stock or LS7 clutch to be asking this question.

DRR

And when you do the clutch replacement install a remote bleeder and use it once a month if you drive the car hard. Your wallet will thank you.

patton

.and check all lines for restrictors. choose after market clutch with care many chatter and/or grab. how many miles on clutch? sounds like ya drive hard. where does it start to grab off the floor when it does work right? do ya change fluid

burnin red

it has a luk clutch in it with maybe 15k on it and no I had not changed the fluid untill recently, and have done it a half a dozen times now. still is laying on floor. do I need a new slave cylinder? the clutch does not slip and works right off the floor, thanks ????????????

Ranger

Your PM box is full. So my response bounced.

Have you been pumping the pedal 10 times between changes? And is the fluid completely clear after a pedal hang event?

Ranger

burnin red

pm box cleaned now sorry, yes pumping and driving between changes am I suppose to pump 10 times with lid on or off, car running or not running,,
fluid is still dirty not completly clean, thanks Kerry

Ranger

Given the vibration risks of a clutch swap, I'd surely recommend that you follow the protocol I suggested unitl the fluid stays clear and clean.

You obviously have a large build-up of crud in the hydraulics. That particulate material traps air and interrupts the smooth operation of the hydraulics.

And yes, change the fluid in the reservoir; replace the cap. Pump the pedal 10 times with the engine off. Then inspect the fluid; if it's not pristinely clean and clear. Repeat.

The alternative is spending $1200-$1800 for a new clutch and installation and accepting the risk of post-install issues.

That's why I recommend following the clutch fluid swap protocol from the time of delivery. That's what I've done on my last two Z06s and have not suffered any pedal woes through nearly 400 passes on those two cars.

Ranger

dsven8818

replace it with a Spec clutch. very affordable and great quality

Vetteoholic

Could be the bearing or It just needs to be adjusted, either way you should have that looked at asap.

willyfastz

If you have a Luk clutch just go ahead and order a new clutch and slave cylinder.

Blue02ws6

Wow you guys are getting SCREWED on labor or paying way too much for a clutch.

Blue02ws6

You must have gotten the one good one out of 1000, if you want to argue do a search.

Blue02ws6

change the clutch and replace the slave while it is apart. Or you can spend money on a clutch pedal stop, move your seat back some, change the fluid every week, remove the pedal spring, cross your fingers, and still have it stick on the floor.

willyfastz

We install them all the time and haven't had a minutes trouble from any of them. For the money you wont find a better clutch. I know there well be a 1000 post and links from that sentence probably.

Blue02ws6

Well I have heard that the stage 1 and 2 do a lot better than the higher lvl clutches, but I usually don't even think about these weaker clutches. I have never kept a car stock.

willyfastz

I've been recomending the 3+ it has a higher hp rating than the 3 and has better drivablity as well. I put a Textralia and a 3+ in two vett's in the same week. I had both cars here at the same time and drove them both back to back. IMO if you didn't know which had what you wouldn't have known they weren't the same clutches.

coupeguy2001

I had some issues with a stuck hyd. clutch before, and rebuilding the clutch master cyl. always fixed it up.
since the clutch master is only pushing fluid, one side of the piston builds high pressure compared to the at rest position. fluid leaked past the piston cup, and applied equal force to the back side, locking the piston in a clutch disengaged position, unable to release the pressure on the backside of the piston. ie: pedal stuck to the floor

in those three cases, there was still some residual pressure to the slave cyl. when I removed the line to the slave cylinder.

just my 2c worth