New engine start up
09-14-2006, 10:07 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
New engine start up
Can anyone post a good thread for instructions on a first start up on a new engine. I'm particularly interested in the correct way to wear in the Camshaft. I've done my best at a search but to no avail. Thanks, Al W.
09-15-2006, 02:25 AM
#2
Race Director
Go the Chevy dealer parts dept, buy a can of EOS, Engine oil supplement, dip all your lifters in the EOS prior to inserting in the lifter bores, and pour the rest of the can of EOS on the cam lobes and valve train components.
You should have had the can of EOS prior to assembling the engine, so you could wipe it on eveything prior to assemly.
Doug
You should have had the can of EOS prior to assembling the engine, so you could wipe it on eveything prior to assemly.
Doug
09-15-2006, 07:53 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Excerpt from an archive thread
clem zahrobsky <Send E-Mail> -- Wednesday, 3 August 2005, at 8:38 p.m.
GM EOS part# 1052367 which i bet GM used in all the new engines,because they always supplied a can in the crate with short and long block before GM went roller cams which require no break in
Re: motor "break in" question
Duke Williams <Send E-Mail> -- Wednesday, 3 August 2005, at 9:18 p.m.
Like Joe said, most engines are hot fired at the engine plant, and if they pass inspection, they are shipped to the final assembly plant. I doubt that most were run more than a minute or two, and some even less.
The next firing was to drive it off the line to the shipping lot. then they were started and run for a few minutes who knows how many times at the plant and dealer until someone drove them away. If you want to call that a cam breakin...whatever!
The whole "cam breakin" deal is overblown. The production cam and valvetrain are not that heavily loaded. With a racing cam and very high valve spring force, it's important, but not that big a deal on a production engine.
Nevertheless, I think it's a good idea to use EOS as suggested by Clem and do at least 5-10 minutes at 2000 revs immediately after start-up. Also, use HD diesel engine oil for breakin and beyond because it has more ZDDP anti-wear additive than oils designed for spark igntion engines regardless of whether they are mineral oil or synthetic based. EOS is basically a big dose of ZDDP, but you only need it for breakin, not after the initial oil change. HD diesel engine oil has plenty.
You should be able to get the initial timing and dwell close enough with a feeler gage and static timing the engine. Do the fine tune with a dwell meter and timing light after the initial run-in.
OE cam drawings show no "coating" on the lobes other than the heat treatment process. Someone who is familiar with the Flint process sheets might be able to tell us if any kind of specific lubricant was placed on the cam lobes, but I doubt it, and I don't think the plant used EOS either - just whatever motor oil met the spec from the lowest cost supplier.
Duke
Re: motor "break in" question
Duke Williams <Send E-Mail> -- Wednesday, 3 August 2005, at 9:27 p.m.
There's no reason to change the oil twice in the first hour of running, however, it's probably not a bad idea to change the filter after the first 30-60 minutes. New engines can generate particles and there are almost always some microscopic machining chips left in the engine. At the plant, some core sand could get into the crankcase, too, and if you use Molykote or similar assembly lubes, these can clog the filter because they contain suspended solids.
Change the filter after the first 30-60 minutes, then keep the EOS fortified CI-4 oil in it for at least 500 miles. preferably 1000, then go with your normal oil and filter change interval.
Duke
Re: motor "bre
clem zahrobsky <Send E-Mail> -- Wednesday, 3 August 2005, at 8:38 p.m.
GM EOS part# 1052367 which i bet GM used in all the new engines,because they always supplied a can in the crate with short and long block before GM went roller cams which require no break in
Re: motor "break in" question
Duke Williams <Send E-Mail> -- Wednesday, 3 August 2005, at 9:18 p.m.
Like Joe said, most engines are hot fired at the engine plant, and if they pass inspection, they are shipped to the final assembly plant. I doubt that most were run more than a minute or two, and some even less.
The next firing was to drive it off the line to the shipping lot. then they were started and run for a few minutes who knows how many times at the plant and dealer until someone drove them away. If you want to call that a cam breakin...whatever!
The whole "cam breakin" deal is overblown. The production cam and valvetrain are not that heavily loaded. With a racing cam and very high valve spring force, it's important, but not that big a deal on a production engine.
Nevertheless, I think it's a good idea to use EOS as suggested by Clem and do at least 5-10 minutes at 2000 revs immediately after start-up. Also, use HD diesel engine oil for breakin and beyond because it has more ZDDP anti-wear additive than oils designed for spark igntion engines regardless of whether they are mineral oil or synthetic based. EOS is basically a big dose of ZDDP, but you only need it for breakin, not after the initial oil change. HD diesel engine oil has plenty.
You should be able to get the initial timing and dwell close enough with a feeler gage and static timing the engine. Do the fine tune with a dwell meter and timing light after the initial run-in.
OE cam drawings show no "coating" on the lobes other than the heat treatment process. Someone who is familiar with the Flint process sheets might be able to tell us if any kind of specific lubricant was placed on the cam lobes, but I doubt it, and I don't think the plant used EOS either - just whatever motor oil met the spec from the lowest cost supplier.
Duke
Re: motor "break in" question
Duke Williams <Send E-Mail> -- Wednesday, 3 August 2005, at 9:27 p.m.
There's no reason to change the oil twice in the first hour of running, however, it's probably not a bad idea to change the filter after the first 30-60 minutes. New engines can generate particles and there are almost always some microscopic machining chips left in the engine. At the plant, some core sand could get into the crankcase, too, and if you use Molykote or similar assembly lubes, these can clog the filter because they contain suspended solids.
Change the filter after the first 30-60 minutes, then keep the EOS fortified CI-4 oil in it for at least 500 miles. preferably 1000, then go with your normal oil and filter change interval.
Duke
Re: motor "bre
09-15-2006, 09:10 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
I coated my lifters and lobes in a good moly lube before installing. Started the motor and ran it at 2500 RPM for 20 minutes. This is before I knew of the EOS. I still would have used the moly lube - just would have used the EOS in the crankcase.
Brian
Brian
09-15-2006, 09:12 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
ready
Prelubing the engine with a primer shaft and drill in the distributor hole, is really an important part of the startup. Preferably use a moly lube on the cam during assembly.
I always have my guages all hooked up and double check all settings first. The timing is already static balanced.
The carb is dialed in to book specs.
GM has an additive (EOS) for cam break in that I put in the engine before I start it.
I run the engine at varying RPM between 2000 and 2500 for 20-30 minutes. Do not slow idle the engine. I do what I can to dial the engine in during this time. Watch your guages closely.
I change the oil and filter after another 10 to 15 minute run or two and then retorque engine bolts when completely cooled off.
Keep the RPMS at varying speeds for the first 2000-3000 miles. No cruise on the highway for endless miles. No racing.
Oil changes at 500, 1000-1500, 2500 and 2500 to 3000 miles thereafter.
I always have my guages all hooked up and double check all settings first. The timing is already static balanced.
The carb is dialed in to book specs.
GM has an additive (EOS) for cam break in that I put in the engine before I start it.
I run the engine at varying RPM between 2000 and 2500 for 20-30 minutes. Do not slow idle the engine. I do what I can to dial the engine in during this time. Watch your guages closely.
I change the oil and filter after another 10 to 15 minute run or two and then retorque engine bolts when completely cooled off.
Keep the RPMS at varying speeds for the first 2000-3000 miles. No cruise on the highway for endless miles. No racing.
Oil changes at 500, 1000-1500, 2500 and 2500 to 3000 miles thereafter.
Last edited by builder; 09-15-2006 at 09:23 AM.
09-15-2006, 10:47 AM
#7
All the articles that i have read say to vary the RPM between 2000 and 3000 for 30 minutes. When i say vary i dont mean reving from 2-3 constantly, but to keep it on 2000 for sevreral minutes then take it to 3000 and repeat, then down to 2500 etc.
thats just what i have read from compcams and some other companies.
This is from cranes webpage
There must be a moly coating between the cam lobe and lifter, in order to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Before installing your new cam, coat all lobes and the bottoms of each lifter with a moly disulphide based assembly lubricant, such as Crane Super Moly Lube (Part Number 99002-1).
Use a high quality 30 or 40 weight oil, preferably a Pennsylvania base oil, or a high quality Pennsylvania based multi-viscosity oil, such as 10W-30 or 20W-50.
Also, for extra protection, an antiwear additive (zinc dithiophosphate) must be added, such as Crane SuperLube (Part Number 99003-1).
IMPORTANT! Do not allow the engine to run UNDER 1500 RPM for the first half-hour or so.
Also, change RPM frequently to direct oil to different places. Slow idle speeds or continued operation of the starter will result in severe cam and lifter wear during the initial start-up period. Prime the carburetor before starting, so that you may immediately start the engine and bring it to break-in RPM. Try to place a load on the engine, such as normal driving conditions, in order to insure proper operating temperatures and distribution of lubricant.
REMEMBER . . . the first 10 minutes are the most important in a new camshaft's life. Tests have shown that if there is no spalling or metal pick up during the first 10 minutes to one hour of operation, the cam will last a normal life. After you have completed the "break-in," immediately change oil and filter.
thats just what i have read from compcams and some other companies.
This is from cranes webpage
There must be a moly coating between the cam lobe and lifter, in order to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Before installing your new cam, coat all lobes and the bottoms of each lifter with a moly disulphide based assembly lubricant, such as Crane Super Moly Lube (Part Number 99002-1).
Use a high quality 30 or 40 weight oil, preferably a Pennsylvania base oil, or a high quality Pennsylvania based multi-viscosity oil, such as 10W-30 or 20W-50.
Also, for extra protection, an antiwear additive (zinc dithiophosphate) must be added, such as Crane SuperLube (Part Number 99003-1).
IMPORTANT! Do not allow the engine to run UNDER 1500 RPM for the first half-hour or so.
Also, change RPM frequently to direct oil to different places. Slow idle speeds or continued operation of the starter will result in severe cam and lifter wear during the initial start-up period. Prime the carburetor before starting, so that you may immediately start the engine and bring it to break-in RPM. Try to place a load on the engine, such as normal driving conditions, in order to insure proper operating temperatures and distribution of lubricant.
REMEMBER . . . the first 10 minutes are the most important in a new camshaft's life. Tests have shown that if there is no spalling or metal pick up during the first 10 minutes to one hour of operation, the cam will last a normal life. After you have completed the "break-in," immediately change oil and filter.
09-16-2006, 04:38 PM
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Take the time to make sure your initial timing is set accurately before you start it, and ensure that the vacuum advance is connected as well, and have your timing light handy and connected to check it; many "first-fires" go downhill fast due to retarded timing, which causes overheating (and cherry-red headers, which fries the ceramic coating on your new $500 Jet-Hot headers, and they won't honor the warranty when that happens). 
09-16-2006, 07:44 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by JohnZ
Take the time to make sure your initial timing is set accurately before you start it, and ensure that the vacuum advance is connected as well, and have your timing light handy and connected to check it; many "first-fires" go downhill fast due to retarded timing, which causes overheating (and cherry-red headers, which fries the ceramic coating on your new $500 Jet-Hot headers, and they won't honor the warranty when that happens).
09-24-2006, 08:49 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
More!
Still haven't cranked her up as I'm assembling to original standards as I go. Local machinist/mechanic told me to leave the Thermostat out for initial start up. Reasoning is that steam could build up under the Therm. and keep it from opening. Opinions? Al W.
09-24-2006, 08:54 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Have never heard of that before. If you fill it properly, the conditions on the start up will be no different from any other time you operate the car. Why would there be steam under normal operating conditions?
My thought is that you want your engine to come to operating temperature quickly. Leaving the thermostat out will cause the warm up to be much longer. A cool engine wears faster.
Brian
My thought is that you want your engine to come to operating temperature quickly. Leaving the thermostat out will cause the warm up to be much longer. A cool engine wears faster.
Brian
09-24-2006, 09:37 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Allcoupedup
Have never heard of that before. If you fill it properly, the conditions on the start up will be no different from any other time you operate the car. Why would there be steam under normal operating conditions?
My thought is that you want your engine to come to operating temperature quickly. Leaving the thermostat out will cause the warm up to be much longer. A cool engine wears faster.
Brian
My thought is that you want your engine to come to operating temperature quickly. Leaving the thermostat out will cause the warm up to be much longer. A cool engine wears faster.
Brian
09-24-2006, 09:57 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
These are the startup instructions for my GM 454/425hp Crate Engine. I don't know if it applies to your engine or if is a good procedure, but this is what I used. I did not wait 30 minutes to set the timing. I did it almost immediately as JohnZ recommends.
Roy
GM Crate Engines Start-up Instructions
1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and appropriate ACDelco oil filter.
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles
Roy
GM Crate Engines Start-up Instructions
1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and appropriate ACDelco oil filter.
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles
09-25-2006, 08:44 AM
#15
Drifting
Originally Posted by 67-427ci
These are the startup instructions for my GM 454/425hp Crate Engine. I don't know if it applies to your engine or if is a good procedure, but this is what I used. I did not wait 30 minutes to set the timing. I did it almost immediately as JohnZ recommends.
Roy
GM Crate Engines Start-up Instructions
1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and appropriate ACDelco oil filter.
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles
Roy
GM Crate Engines Start-up Instructions
1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and appropriate ACDelco oil filter.
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles
I had these same instructions for my zz383 stroker from GM. We did as they stated with the addition of the EOS in the crankcase. Changed the oil and filter at 500 miles and use the Shell Rotella oil now.
Dennis
11-17-2012, 01:36 PM
#18
Intermediate
My situation is slightly. Different in that my motor has 75k miles on it but has been sitting idle for over thirty years. What, if anything, would be different for a first restart from the first start of a new motor?
11-17-2012, 03:59 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
If it was mine I would stay really close to the new engine start up. Your lifters have not turned in the bores for 30 years. When the cam strikes a lifter it must turn or it will wipe a cam lobe out. Get the RPM up to 2,000 as soon as possible and keep it up for the first 20 minutes. Have help on hand so you can watch oil pressure, temperature and monitor the engine for leaks or problems. You may need help to cool the engine while running the break in. A fan on the radiator helps and a mist of water on the radiator helps if needed.
If you hear odd noises of course shut down and determine what you are fighting before going back to the break in. If you get through the 20 minutes break in, start with your final tune and enjoy it. I would change the oil again at this point, 30 years of accumulation may be zero inside or a lot. Look at the oil you drain and see what comes out. The cooling system should have been flushed before start up, get all the old coolant out, make sure to flush both the radiator and heater core while you flush the block.
I would start the old engine with water in the radiator, after this much time you may discover leaks that will need repair. You can add antifreeze after you know the system is intact and after your break in period. Just don't let it freeze this time of year.
If you hear odd noises of course shut down and determine what you are fighting before going back to the break in. If you get through the 20 minutes break in, start with your final tune and enjoy it. I would change the oil again at this point, 30 years of accumulation may be zero inside or a lot. Look at the oil you drain and see what comes out. The cooling system should have been flushed before start up, get all the old coolant out, make sure to flush both the radiator and heater core while you flush the block.
I would start the old engine with water in the radiator, after this much time you may discover leaks that will need repair. You can add antifreeze after you know the system is intact and after your break in period. Just don't let it freeze this time of year.
11-17-2012, 04:30 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Bucks Co. / outside Philadelphia PA
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There are thermostats with bypass holes to prevent this. I used a Stewart pump on the '66 and they required one of these with it:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/em...make/chevrolet