64roadster

In restoring my '64 convertible I decided to store the original #s matching engine and PG transmission and install a built 327 and Muncie 4spd. I bought a set of pedals from a forum member who said it was for a '64. I ordered the '64 clutch rods from Paragon but the clutch will not release.

The '64 clutch pedal rod is 18" and they offer another rod that is 19.25" long for 66-67 models. They also offer different bellcrank rods but do not list the measurements.

I am inlined to think the pedal assembly I bought may actually be from a later year. Should I just order the rods for the 66-67 BB applications?

What are your thoughts?

Gordon

achapman

I had a similar problem many years ago. What I did was to remove the rod from the "Z" to the throw out bearing connection. Then went to the hardware store and bought a section of threaded rod (same size). Then I installed it through the "Z" end with ample amount left over, then attached it to the throw out pivot arm. This allowed me to "adjust" for proper length. Once that was determined, I cut the rod, then removed it for measurement and ordered the "correct" rod I needed.... Warning: do not use the rod from the hardware store.... it was for measurement and adjustment purposes only...... it will break quite easily...... ask me how I know..... Good Luck.....

64roadster

Thanks for the quick reply. I have been ignoring this problem while I work on other areas of the car but I would like to get it resolved. Was the rod from the hardware store sturdy enough to disengage the clutch? And, did you just replace the clutch pedal rod and not the bellcrank rod?

MikeM

It's not clear how you're determining the clutch is not releasing. Can you get the proper free play adjustment? Is there any chance your cluctch disc is stuck to the flywheel?

64roadster

This is all new hardware. It is obvious that when I depress the clutch pedal there just isn't enough travel to release the clutch. I admit, I have not tried putting the car into gear with the engine running.

I am not new to 4spd, I also have '68 Z28... hmmm, maybe I'll measure the Z28's rod to see if it is longer than 18".

achapman

Yes, the rod from the hardware store was able to disengage the clutch, and yes I only had to replace the clutch pedal rod. I had a lot of adjustment on the bell crank side but not on the clutch pedal rod. It wasn't until I removed the clutch pedal rod that I discovered that it had been welded by Bubba..... and he came up short.....

Again, do not use the hardware rod as a substitute, it won't stand up....

64roadster

Got it, think I'll measure the rod from my Z tonight.

MasterDave

I used the later year longer rod in my 64 and it fixed the lack of adjustment problem. You need both rods though, the belcrank is the same.

64roadster

Thanks, I knew I wouldn't be the first to have this experience.

JohnZ

Do you have the matched upper and lower rods? '63-'65 takes the 18" upper rod and 10-9/16" lower rod, and '66-'67 takes the 19-1/4" upper rod and 8-9/16" lower rod.

64roadster

John, I do have the matched upper and lower rods that are correct for '64, the 18" and 10-9/16" but since they don't seem long enough I suspect the pedal assy is not correct for '64. Everything seems too short.

I'm going to measure the rod on my '68 Z28 and if it is 19-1/4" I will borrow it for a test fit.

GCD1962

Also check the following:

1) Correct fork ball

2) Correct fork

3) Correct throwout bearing

4) Correct placement of throwout bearing on fork

Any/all of the above if not correct can create a release problem

64roadster

I had the correct clutch rods but I couldn't resolve my issue until I change to the lower pivot hole in the clutch pedal. It is only 1" or so lower but it now allows the clutch to operate normally.

Does anyone know the application for the top hole?

Also, even with the return spring in place on the firewall the pedal does not return to full "up" position. Is there a second return spring?

Appreciate the help.

Gordon

magicv8

Are you sure you have the correct Zbar (pivot shaft)? 19 years ago, I had gotten one for a BB car by mistake, and when I swapped to SB Zbar everything worked fine.

64roadster

My car originally had a powerglide, I'm converting to muncie 4-speed. I ordered all of the clutch linkage from Paragon, including the Z-bar so I'm pretty confident it is correct.

At least now the car can move under its own power, so I guess I better add brake fluid and the steering coloumn.

buns

This statement is confusing. To the best of my knowledge there are no "pivot" holes in the clutch arm. There is a bracket with a "pin" that goes thru the clutch rod, which is adjustable. Anyone else have any input? Picture of my '66 assembly below.
.

64roadster

The location you circled is the one that resolved my problem. I was connecting the clutch rod to the pin that is slightly higher on the pedal assembly. By any chance does a returm spring attach under the dash? I don't see one in the AIM, except for the one attaching to the engine side of the firewall.

JohnZ

The pedal pushrod goes over the pin, not on either of the bolts that attach the bracket to the pedal arm. The only return spring is on the engine side, from the hook on the steering column bracket on the dash to the top of the Z-bar.

64roadster

John, with the correct linkage and clutch fork, can you see any reason why the clutch would not operate properly with the linkage attached to pin on the pedal arm?

JohnZ

If the throwout bearing (1-1/4" long, not the 1-3/4" long bearing used for passenger car applications) is correctly installed on the clutch fork and the rest of the parts are correctly matched, it should work fine in the "standard" position as shown in the photo. Do you have the rubber bumper (pedal "up-stop") installed?

Does your diaphragm clutch pressure plate have flat or bent fingers?

Throwout bearing installation: