C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Tools For Trans Removal ??

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Old 08-24-2006, 05:28 PM
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JD'S WHITE 93
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Default Tools For Trans Removal ??

I have a new convertor comming and will be doing the swap in the near future. Special thanks to Pete K. but I have more questions. I want to
make sure I have the right tools before I get underneath the car. What size are the bellhousing bolts ? What size are the bolts on the torque convertor and what size flare nut wrench do I need ? I am working on a
93 with an automatic. I want to know the sizes so if it's a 9/16 for example I can make sure I have a 9/16 extra long combination wrench and a stubby 9/16 and a 9/16 socket with a built in universal. Are they
6point or 12 point ? I have a transmission jack and a flexpalte turner and all the basic handtools. I just know I'll end up wishing I had a wrench 2 inches longer or shorter unless I ask first. Thanks !!
Old 08-24-2006, 06:01 PM
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Bellhousing bolts are 9/16 (or 14mm)
Torque converter bolts are 15mm. Use a small amount of heat from a propane torch to break loose the factory locktite.
c beam bolts that bolt to tailhousing of trans is 3/4 (I think)
tv cable attaching bolt is 10mm
You can simply pull the pin for the shifter linkage attacment
Cooler lines are 1/2 inch, hold the brass fittings with a 5/8 wrench
I think the driveshaft bolts are 3/8, but they may be 7/16
Flexplate holding/turning tool is worth it's weight in gold.
10mm bolts hold the torque converter sheetmetal cover on.
Inspect the engine rear main seal for leakage while it is down. Also inspect the flexplate for bad teeth or cracks also. It is the perfect time for it.
Be sure that the front pump seal is changed and that the seal retainer is firmly in place after replacing the seal. Also carefully inspect, and replace if nescessary, the small o-ring on the end of the input shaft. If it leaks, lock up will suffer. While the front pump seal is out look carefully at the front pump bushing. If it looks chewed, or you see copper, change it also.
Old 08-24-2006, 06:57 PM
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JD'S WHITE 93
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Bellhousing bolts are 9/16 (or 14mm)
Torque converter bolts are 15mm. Use a small amount of heat from a propane torch to break loose the factory locktite.
c beam bolts that bolt to tailhousing of trans is 3/4 (I think)
tv cable attaching bolt is 10mm
You can simply pull the pin for the shifter linkage attacment
Cooler lines are 1/2 inch, hold the brass fittings with a 5/8 wrench
I think the driveshaft bolts are 3/8, but they may be 7/16
Flexplate holding/turning tool is worth it's weight in gold.
10mm bolts hold the torque converter sheetmetal cover on.
Inspect the engine rear main seal for leakage while it is down. Also inspect the flexplate for bad teeth or cracks also. It is the perfect time for it.
Be sure that the front pump seal is changed and that the seal retainer is firmly in place after replacing the seal. Also carefully inspect, and replace if nescessary, the small o-ring on the end of the input shaft. If it leaks, lock up will suffer. While the front pump seal is out look carefully at the front pump bushing. If it looks chewed, or you see copper, change it also.
Is the front pump seal the seal on the mainshaft comming out of the transmission ? The shaft that the convertor sildes on ? Hopefully it is so at least we're talking about the same thing. How do I change that seal ? Is it held in with a snap ring or ???
Old 08-24-2006, 06:58 PM
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JD'S WHITE 93
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When I get the convertor and get it changed I'm going to send Pete K a present for helping me with this. I owe you man !!
Old 08-24-2006, 07:33 PM
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I think that's a very nice gesture on your part.
Old 08-24-2006, 09:03 PM
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Pete K
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Originally Posted by JD'S WHITE 93
Is the front pump seal the seal on the mainshaft comming out of the transmission ? The shaft that the convertor sildes on ? Hopefully it is so at least we're talking about the same thing. How do I change that seal ? Is it held in with a snap ring or ???
The seal it lightly pressed in. You must pry the old one out, and carefully tap the new one in. Little tricky the first time you do one, but no big deal really. Some people believe in leaving the old one alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it type of attitude. I am the opposite. I believe they should be changed every time they are accessable.
Old 08-24-2006, 09:03 PM
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JD'S WHITE 93
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Originally Posted by LT4CompYell
I think that's a very nice gesture on your part.
This guy goes out of his way to help I gotta send him something.
Old 08-24-2006, 09:04 PM
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Pete K
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Originally Posted by JD'S WHITE 93
When I get the convertor and get it changed I'm going to send Pete K a present for helping me with this. I owe you man !!
No problem. No gift needed. Helping out is what the forum is all about.
Old 08-26-2006, 02:46 PM
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Good info on this thread.
Thanks.
Old 08-26-2006, 08:51 PM
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gotta love the forum
Old 08-26-2006, 09:17 PM
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Just a minor correction to a previous post. C-beam bolts at the tranny end take an 18mm wrench (12mm bolts) and at the differential end they require a 21mm wrench. (14mm bolts)
Old 08-26-2006, 09:21 PM
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87 rag
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Originally Posted by Corvette Kid
Just a minor correction to a previous post. C-beam bolts at the tranny end take an 18mm wrench (12mm bolts) and at the differential end they require a 21mm wrench. (14mm bolts)
Thanks, Looks like I need to do a tool inventory and make sure I haven't lost those ones.
Old 08-26-2006, 09:38 PM
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87 rag
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The internet is a wonderful tool.

http://www.partshp.com/ConverterInstructions.htm
http://www.protorque.com/techi/ti_it.htm
Old 08-26-2006, 09:54 PM
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U-joint bolts have 8mm heads on them. For sure the 89-90s. I don't think they changed them.

Another hint is at least a 2 foot 3/8" extension and a good 9/16" swivel socket on it, so you can get to the top 2 bellhousing bolts. It's a real bear to try to take them off with a combination wrench ... after you have to take the distributor out on 86-91s, a little pain still on the LTs.

Support the tranny as you lower it, use the swivel and extension to get to the top bolts. A minute from the bottom with a ratchet, less with air, 15-20 from the top, and a little cussin'.

I always use a avation form-a-gasket on the seal before I put it back in the pump.
Old 08-26-2006, 11:09 PM
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Thanks I was hoping I would get to use my new air ratchet and compressor.

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