How to fix your defective ZF clutch slave, with pics.
#1
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How to fix your defective ZF clutch slave, with pics.
This should be self explanitory. Hard parts were pulling the piston out of the cylinder. You can tap it on a wood block to get it most of the way out, but I needed to use the snap ring pliers to really grab ahold of it (on the non sealing surfaces) and pull hard. The other option would be to pop the piston out with hydraulic pressure while its still attached to the clutch hose.
Getting the seal flipped was tricky too. Remember, both the ID and OD of the seal do the work and can't be damaged. I crudely jammed a screwdriver under the seal, (make sure you get all the way under) and pryed it off. If you're not handy, I'd pay someone else to do it.
The CORRECT seal position is as shown on the bottom right.
FWIW, this is a Raybestos slave I bought 6 months ago and have about 3K miles on.
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
...FWIW, this is a Raybestos slave I bought 6 months ago and have about 3K miles on.
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Originally Posted by tobijohn
Are you saying your replacement slave went bad that fast?
#4
The problem was the seal was put on backwards allowing the fluid to pass by the seal when pressure was applied. As shown in the pictures, the trick is to turn the seal around so it actually seals properly.
#5
Melting Slicks
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So what actually happens when its backwards? if it allows fluid to leak past does this mean the slave will leak? Does this mean the slave might not perform properly etc?
Im wondering because im having sealing issues with my Mcleod master cylinders. I did just replace the slave with a new one from GM a few weeks ago.
Im wondering because im having sealing issues with my Mcleod master cylinders. I did just replace the slave with a new one from GM a few weeks ago.
#7
Race Director
Excellent,
But also inspect the seal, verify all 5 Micro edge lips are on the seal all the way around, or the fix will be stop lived.. I have 3 slaves, 2 are still good, the 3rd is not, slave was used LESS then 1K miles.
From your pictures the Micro edges seem to not be there
But also inspect the seal, verify all 5 Micro edge lips are on the seal all the way around, or the fix will be stop lived.. I have 3 slaves, 2 are still good, the 3rd is not, slave was used LESS then 1K miles.
From your pictures the Micro edges seem to not be there
#8
Burning Brakes
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Thank you
Excellent information, thanks for the clarification guys. Perhaps with some added instructions on how to remove and bleed the slave it could be added to the TECH TIPS.
#9
Drifting
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Yes, it came defective out of the box. As did about 80% of all the zf slaves sold in the past 5 years or so.
You wait and see...I'll take that thing off and it'll be one of the good ones. Or could continue to use it and hope for the best.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'19, '21-'22-'23-'24
Originally Posted by Scooter 94
I'm thinking it would almost have to be gradual. May watch fluid for leaks and fix when obvious.
What say the experts?
What say the experts?
The slave will either work or not almost instantly....well all mine failed within the first hour of use...even the ones with the seal in wrong(before I knew about that) would work for me for about an hour and then gear clash would happen out of the blue you would sit at a light in neutral and go step on the clutch and go to 1st and bingo the noise would start....and sometimes it would not...and as it gets worse you get the clash going to do upshifts in normal driving. None of my slaves with the seal in wrong leaked any fluid that I could find but they would not push the fork far enough or hold the fork at max travel long enough to not give gear clash when shifting. That is my experience with OEM/GM boxed parts and the aftermarket stuff that looks exactly like GM stuff.
Tom
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by tomtom72
...The slave will either work or not almost instantly....well all mine failed within the first hour of use...even the ones with the seal in wrong(before I knew about that) would work for me for about an hour and then gear clash would happen out of the blue you would sit at a light in neutral and go step on the clutch and go to 1st and bingo the noise would start....and sometimes it would not...and as it gets worse you get the clash going to do upshifts in normal driving. None of my slaves with the seal in wrong leaked any fluid that I could find but they would not push the fork far enough or hold the fork at max travel long enough to not give gear clash when shifting. That is my experience with OEM/GM boxed parts and the aftermarket stuff that looks exactly like GM stuff.
Tom
Tom
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Mine worked with the seal backwards for 6 months, it just slowly leaked fluid past. I haven't checked for fluid loss yet with it fixed.
#16
Drifting
Figured I better take a look while I had the car jacked up for oil change. Sure enough, after only 120 miles on Raybestos slave (purchased 4/06), there was some moisture on the boot end. Removed it, took the plunger out, and the seal WAS ON BACKWARDS!!
Corvette Forum to the rescue! Thanks for the great info.
Corvette Forum to the rescue! Thanks for the great info.
#17
Drifting
Originally Posted by DieL
Are GM slaves all AC delco? I've read on many posts the ac delco are junk, and also read that the Gm ones are the way to go..
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
OK, Are there any aftermarket alternatives to Raybestos/AC Delco/GM, etc. that do last? TIA...
#19
Race Director
Originally Posted by tobijohn
OK, Are there any aftermarket alternatives to Raybestos/AC Delco/GM, etc. that do last? TIA...
Possibly the Wagner Cast one...
GM knows what is wrong with the slaves now. I have an email conversation regarding it. I need to email the gentleman that I got it from Prior to posting it..
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Melting Slicks
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I can see GM giving us a GP on slaves in the near future ..
I'll be the first to replace it regardless if mine isn't leaking. Just for peace of mind i would want a 'fixed' one.
I'll be the first to replace it regardless if mine isn't leaking. Just for peace of mind i would want a 'fixed' one.