Tire pressure sensors on I-forged wheels - HELP!
#1
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Tire pressure sensors on I-forged wheels - HELP!
I'm getting some I-forged wheels. Anyone out there with I-forged wheels? - how did you deal with the sensors?
I believe I read somewhere that the stock stem sensors can't be used.
Please share your wisdom, info, and links!
Thanks in advance!
I believe I read somewhere that the stock stem sensors can't be used.
Please share your wisdom, info, and links!
Thanks in advance!
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Originally Posted by Ogolden1
I'm getting some I-forged wheels. Anyone out there with I-forged wheels? - how did you deal with the sensors?
I believe I read somewhere that the stock stem sensors can't be used.
Please share your wisdom, info, and links!
Thanks in advance!
I believe I read somewhere that the stock stem sensors can't be used.
Please share your wisdom, info, and links!
Thanks in advance!
2 piece, non Z-51
- you can use the stock sensors in their holes with 18/19 combo or bigger
2 piece, Z-51
- 18/19 need the front ones banded or epoxied in. I did both and still had one let go inside the tire. It didn't hurt the sensor at least. If you go 19 in front, you can still mount them as valve stems and they will clear. With 18s, you will need flush mount stems and have to take the wheels off the car to adjust air pressure. Its a major PITA and I wish I had got 19s up front now.
3 piece
- all have to be epoxy/banded.
#3
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For I Forged wheels heres a tip on sensor mounting.
I have Iforged FS Classics. Heres how I mounted my sensors, I did not want the aggravation of going without them. Also since I'm running non run flats I want to know if I have a slow leak or am low on tire pressure. I'll be running the Hoosier R6 345/30/19 in the rear.
First I cut the valve stem off at the base of the aluminum.Then I used my rotory tool to cut a flat spot on the sensor body so the zip tie sits flat and secure.
I then cleaned a spot on the opposite side of the valve stem with alcohol and epoxied the sensor to the rim and used long zip ties for an extra saftey measure.The little hole on top of the little nipple is where the sensor reads pressure ( do not block it ). Hope this helps.
I have Iforged FS Classics. Heres how I mounted my sensors, I did not want the aggravation of going without them. Also since I'm running non run flats I want to know if I have a slow leak or am low on tire pressure. I'll be running the Hoosier R6 345/30/19 in the rear.
First I cut the valve stem off at the base of the aluminum.Then I used my rotory tool to cut a flat spot on the sensor body so the zip tie sits flat and secure.
I then cleaned a spot on the opposite side of the valve stem with alcohol and epoxied the sensor to the rim and used long zip ties for an extra saftey measure.The little hole on top of the little nipple is where the sensor reads pressure ( do not block it ). Hope this helps.
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Thanks, guys!
These are for a C6Z06. 18/19 combo - using stock GY run flats.
C6 Dude: When you said you "cut the valve stem off at the base of the aluminum" ...does that mean you used the stock ones and modified them?
If not, where do you get them?
Also, where did you get that big zip tie? Is it one piece?
With that extra weight, is it harder to get the wheels balanced?
Since I'm using run-flats, if I just leave them out, am I going to get a
warning all the time?
What about resetting them?
Sorry for all the questions guys - this sensor thing is all new to me!
Your help is truely appreciated!
Ps: btw, WHY can't the stock one be installed in the Iforged wheels anyway?
These are for a C6Z06. 18/19 combo - using stock GY run flats.
C6 Dude: When you said you "cut the valve stem off at the base of the aluminum" ...does that mean you used the stock ones and modified them?
If not, where do you get them?
Also, where did you get that big zip tie? Is it one piece?
With that extra weight, is it harder to get the wheels balanced?
Since I'm using run-flats, if I just leave them out, am I going to get a
warning all the time?
What about resetting them?
Sorry for all the questions guys - this sensor thing is all new to me!
Your help is truely appreciated!
Ps: btw, WHY can't the stock one be installed in the Iforged wheels anyway?
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Originally Posted by corvette pilot
With 18s, you will need flush mount stems and have to take the wheels off the car to adjust air pressure. Its a major PITA and I wish I had got 19s up front now.
Why does it matter whether it's Z51, 2pc, or 3pc? ...the different styles have difference clearances?
#7
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Originally Posted by Ogolden1
Thanks, guys!
These are for a C6Z06. 18/19 combo - using stock GY run flats.
C6 Dude: When you said you "cut the valve stem off at the base of the aluminum" ...does that mean you used the stock ones and modified them?
If not, where do you get them?
Also, where did you get that big zip tie? Is it one piece?
With that extra weight, is it harder to get the wheels balanced?
Since I'm using run-flats, if I just leave them out, am I going to get a
warning all the time?
What about resetting them?
Sorry for all the questions guys - this sensor thing is all new to me!
Your help is truely appreciated!
Ps: btw, WHY can't the stock one be installed in the Iforged wheels anyway?
These are for a C6Z06. 18/19 combo - using stock GY run flats.
C6 Dude: When you said you "cut the valve stem off at the base of the aluminum" ...does that mean you used the stock ones and modified them?
If not, where do you get them?
Also, where did you get that big zip tie? Is it one piece?
With that extra weight, is it harder to get the wheels balanced?
Since I'm using run-flats, if I just leave them out, am I going to get a
warning all the time?
What about resetting them?
Sorry for all the questions guys - this sensor thing is all new to me!
Your help is truely appreciated!
Ps: btw, WHY can't the stock one be installed in the Iforged wheels anyway?
If you are using Run flats I would definitely use a sensor. It is very hard to tell if you are very low or flat with the stiff side walls. You could end up loosing it on an exit ramp or sharp turn and doing some doughnuts or even worse. If you do run without them you have to reset them every 100 miles or you will get a warning and it will put you in limp mode.
#8
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Originally Posted by jmess
At one point someone was saying the TPS valve stem is part of the sensor's antenna. Cutting it off may impact the range.
Thats bull !!! Even if it was true they still work. I have a friend with them on for 6 months now with no problems .
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C6dude: Sounds good - THANKS!
One last thing - if you place the same sensors in each wheel - keeping track of Front Right, FL, RR, RL, do you have to reset them, or will they work fine?
One last thing - if you place the same sensors in each wheel - keeping track of Front Right, FL, RR, RL, do you have to reset them, or will they work fine?
#10
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Originally Posted by Ogolden1
C6dude: Sounds good - THANKS!
One last thing - if you place the same sensors in each wheel - keeping track of Front Right, FL, RR, RL, do you have to reset them, or will they work fine?
One last thing - if you place the same sensors in each wheel - keeping track of Front Right, FL, RR, RL, do you have to reset them, or will they work fine?
#11
Originally Posted by C6dude
Thats bull !!! Even if it was true they still work. I have a friend with them on for 6 months now with no problems .
They may still work with the antenna cut off and the whole sensor hidden in the RF shield of wheel and tire, but it will be a marginal signal situation. Don't be surprised if they fail when the voltage of their batteries starts to sag as the batteries age. The batteries are non-replaceable, you have to replace the whole sensor when the battery runs down to the point the car can't receive the signal. Normally, that should take several years, but if you've reduced the sensors' ability to radiate a signal, it'll likely happen much sooner.
#12
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Originally Posted by shopdog
No bull. The stems are the antennas. That's the only part that sticks outside the RF shielding of the metal wheels and steel belted tires in a stock setup. Chevy even cautions you not to put aftermarket valve caps on the stems, because it may adversely affect the signals from the TPS.
They may still work with the antenna cut off and the whole sensor hidden in the RF shield of wheel and tire, but it will be a marginal signal situation. Don't be surprised if they fail when the voltage of their batteries starts to sag as the batteries age. The batteries are non-replaceable, you have to replace the whole sensor when the battery runs down to the point the car can't receive the signal. Normally, that should take several years, but if you've reduced the sensors' ability to radiate a signal, it'll likely happen much sooner.
They may still work with the antenna cut off and the whole sensor hidden in the RF shield of wheel and tire, but it will be a marginal signal situation. Don't be surprised if they fail when the voltage of their batteries starts to sag as the batteries age. The batteries are non-replaceable, you have to replace the whole sensor when the battery runs down to the point the car can't receive the signal. Normally, that should take several years, but if you've reduced the sensors' ability to radiate a signal, it'll likely happen much sooner.
I understand your philosophy with the cutting of the stems/antenaes on the signal fading with time,but do you know this from first hand experience or a forum post you can link us to? A lot of people are cutting them off with no problems posted so far that I can find.The stock TPS sensors are suppose to last 8-10 years with the average lasting about 8 years.They are using RF signals so IMO being so close to the computer should not have a big impact on distance. I will take my chances and keep everybody posted if they fail prematurely on my wheels. There was somebody else that did the same thing on the DC forum about a year ago with no problems, I cannot find the post to link you guys. But If you are correct time will tell, we'll all see soon.
#14
Safety Car
I've had the nipples cut off of the sensors for several months now, no problems. I just epoxied them into that wheel groove, but I like the zip-tie idea too.
Ogolden, the stems on these aftermarket 2/3-pc wheels have their inflation valve holes on the inside of the wheel. The larger brakes on the front interfere with that location since the stems are somewhat long. So, we mount them inside the wheel and just put a short stem on the hole instead.
Ogolden, the stems on these aftermarket 2/3-pc wheels have their inflation valve holes on the inside of the wheel. The larger brakes on the front interfere with that location since the stems are somewhat long. So, we mount them inside the wheel and just put a short stem on the hole instead.
#16
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Originally Posted by Dub Silverado
So for a z51 that I upgrade the wheels and dont use runflats on the new wheels do i still need to use the sensor?
#17
Originally Posted by C6dude
Yes, you still do.Unless you don't mind resetting your computer every 100 miles.
#18
Safety Car
19s up front might have clearance for the stems. Guess you won't know until you get the wheels, then you can decide to use the normal mounting setup or cut/clue them in the wheel.
#19
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Originally Posted by Dub Silverado
no no thats retarted. I plan to get gfg 19s and 20s is there a way to order them so they will just bolt on and i wont need to glue and strap?