Schurters Blowen LT

this is kinda not the place but, there are more people here with Gen 7 ...

SO i have no spark ....

Gen 7 is online with the PCM
RPM go's to like 200rpm
you can smell the fuel
cheaked for sprk off the coil and NO ?

I have the Mallory hyfire 685 with the Mallory coil as well ....

I have a dual syn diszzy.....

Any ideas ?

lcvette

here is how mine is wired...

I removed the ICM completely... use the coil positive wire to power the mallory ignition box relay. I used msd but I am sure the mallory hyfire is similar.. there should be 3 more wires coming from the mallory hyfire, coil negative, coil positive, and signal source which is a white wire on the msd box, this wire connects to the blue wire from the dual sync dizzy. be sure your wiring for the dizzy is correct.. it requires a switched 12v source and the grounds must be connected to a very good grounding source. the heavy gauge black and red wires from the mallory should go to a good chassis ground (black wire) and straght to the battery (red wire). be sure you have the dfi gen 7 switched to full sequential, and that the dizzy used is the dual synch. you are now using the mallory box as your ignition control module to fire the coil. also make sure that the coil bracket is grounded very good to the engine this is the path the spark is using to return if it is not grounded good there will be a very weak or no spark condiction.. I used a #8 wire to the ground point of the dual sync and then another #6 from that point to the main engine ground point near the oil filter which connects to the battery at this point. if there is a no start condition no spark still.. I would retrace your wiring in the engine harness to the dizzy.. I remember it being somewhat tricky.

gimme a shout, I pm'd you my number again on camaroz28.com!

Chris

Schurters Blowen LT

Thanks for the heads up ......

Everything there sounds like i have done it right, Other then the ground on the coil. i will go and try that

i getr power from the fuse box to light up the mallory box but that works..

I put bat power and ground , to see if there was spark..there was but it was weak, maybe because i needed that ground i will try that frist...

thanks


Jeremy

Schurters Blowen LT

Well i put a ground onto the coil and nothing ? Ground cable from coil bolt/coil body to eng ground

mn_vette

I might be inclined to put a stock coil back in just to see if that makes a difference. Those coils do go bad, and some strait from the factory. Eliminate everything you can and trouble shoot from there.

I'm running the same dual sync setup but with an MSD coil. The blue wire should go to the box, and then the box should hook up into the coil. No ignition module or anything. Good luck man.

Schurters Blowen LT

Not sure how i would hook up the stock coil at this point ? can this be done ?...i will try anything at this point

the coil has spark i put power and ground to it..the spark looks weak but there is spark....

there is no spark when i crank off the coil

As for the mallory box
4 wires
yel power to coil
black ground to coil
red switch power that i get from the fues box
green wire is the triger wire that i have hooked up to the blue est wire....

When i installed the Dual syc dis you could here the Dis click when i turned it so that told me the it is live..

What MSD coil do you have and MSD box ....part numbers#

i might just order up a second set of things.....


Any other ideas...

lcvette

well.. i would use the switched wire provided for the factory coil... i think that is what both myself and Mnvette did.. may not have a strong enough voltage signal from the fuse box.. just an idea???

the other thing is how did you phase in the rotor? you may have the rotor out of its striking range.. this is why they tell you to get your tdc, mark the cap plug tower closest to it. I actually went ahead and phased the rotor to the tower marker on the base at this stage.. then rotate your engine back 25 degrees. then readjust the rotor pointer to the center of the cap plug tower location. all this should be done while starting with both the cam and crank sensor lights exstinguished. one may come on as you rotate the engine backwards which should be ok, this is just to get your rotor hitting your plug towers at the most contacted opportune time with advance.

this could be one of the problems if you are unsure.. I know it must be a major pain in the *** on an F-body being that thing is tucked way underneath the firewall.... but if your unsure and nothing else seems to be doing the trick ya may wanna retrace your steps here.

Chris

Schurters Blowen LT

I will try hooking up the power off the old coil wire to the mallory box..

AS for phaseing in the Diz/rotor

What i did was

Pulled the Diz out
turn the rotor back to the fire wall both lights came on (red/blue) hold the diz body still

Now it took me a few trys at this to get it right BUT
what i did was with both light on I droped the diz into the hole and as it hit the cam gear it turned ( rotor ) (holding diz body) the rotor turn to the front of the car reg fire order..

So as i droped it in the the red light went out frist, then blue, then the red came back on, as the diz droped into the hole the red light went out and then there was a click..both lights out and the diz all the way in.....

I watch the houre power TV thing that they have in the Accel gen 7 demo and that was the way they did it.

Now i put the cap on and looked where the rotor pointed then i moved the rotor forward a bit.....(moved the eng back 25*) then moved the rotor

this should be it.......

Yes when i started the Eng was at TDC when i started

Schurters Blowen LT

Is it the red wire that you cut for power ?

lcvette

I send the red factory coil hot (pink on my car 96) wire to the switched hot wire from the mallory box.. this wire should be turning on an internal relay which gets its main power from the heavy gauge wire going to the battery positive terminal. main black ground wire to chassis, then coil neg to coil neg, coil hot to coil hot, white or yellow (mallory) to dizzy blue, it should be wired properly.

what coil are you running? out of curiousity have a part number? should be able to run about any 2 wire coil on the market.. nnot trying to be funny but are you sure your plug wires have the correct ends on them for the dizzy cap? they should be HEI style female plug boots. and if you crimped to length yourself are you sure they are crimped correctly? just trying to throw ideas out there, I am sure you went through this already but from what it sounds like, you have everything wired in and it should be working. you said you have spark but its weak.. is this at the plug or at the coil, and will an inductive timing light pick up spark through the number one wire? if so I would point it at the balancer and have someone turn over the engine to see if its firing when it needs to be. from my instructions of installing the dizzy it said to turn until one light went out then continue turning until the other light goes out. I had to turn mine a good bit to get the second light out.. almost 360* I then held the body of the dizzy still with the rotor as I installed it and made sure no lights came on at all.. took a few tries but finally got it.. was tough lining up the oil pump drive shaft. then I finished same way you said you did.. mine is wired same same.. and works.. yours should be working also but if you are not seeing spark through the wires and have spark at the coil.. I would guess the dizzy is out of synch.. if ya get it synched up you should then start seeing spark in all 8 wires as the rotor passes the posts and the gen 7 ecm tells the msd to fire from the crank/cam signal and you should be getting proper spark.

if all this is 100% and your sure about it... I would go back through the harness wiring instructions and check every one of the wires to be sure you went to the right place with them.. I remember being confused on one or two of them while using the PnP dizzy harness but was able to figure it out by carefully seeing where the wires cam out on the other side of the plug.. they were different colors then stated in the manul but the pin locations on the dizzy side held the correct colors so I connected on the ecm side of the 8 pin connector with pigtails... just go over it again, once you have double checked everything and are 100% then I would start suspecting a bad component.

Chris

Schurters Blowen LT

WOW thanks Chris,

I will go over everything monday night and see what i come up with...

Jeremy

Schurters Blowen LT

These are the wire off the Mallory box

Yel- this is the + side of the coil
Black- this is the - side of the coil....

they both come out of the Mallory box and go to the coil...

Red wire -12v switched , this is the wire that i have picking up power out of the fuse box, I will switch it to the factory red coil wire.

Green wire- this is the triger wire that i hooked up to the Accel Gen 7 EST (blue) wire..

then there is
Red- bat power
Black- body ground

Schurters Blowen LT

Chris i will call monday night if i am still lost.....

thanks

Jeremy

lcvette

no problem man.. I missed your call earlier,, took the vette out for a spin after washing it up..lol first time I really cleaned it well and got to go enjoy it.. but I had left the phone sitting on the shop bench.. doh..

anyways, feel free to give me a shout man i will help where ever I can..

Chris

tjwong

Your connections look correct. One way to test the system is to disconnect the G7 EST wire, and take the green Mallory wire and touch it to ground with the ignition power on. When you lift the green wire off the ground you should get a spark out of the coil. This is the way to verify the trigger circuit. Lifting the green wires off the ground is the same thing that the G7 EST circuit will fire the box. If you do not get a spark when the wire is lifted from the ground point, then either you have no ignition power to the box or no power from the battery connection. If these two power sources are verified then you have a bad ignition box. If you do get a hot spark discharge from the coil when doing this test, then you have a trigger problem coming from the EST circuit of the G7 box. If that is the case make sure that the configuration for the ECM is correct for the distributor that you are using.

Schurters Blowen LT

thanks for all the info...i will try this and get back.....

mn_vette

Quick Coil and Mallor box setup. put a spark plug wire on the end of the coil and lay it on something grounded. If it sparks when you turn the engine over then you've got an allignment problem in the rotor. Even if you don't have the dual sync phased in correctly this should still give you a spark to tell you if its wired correctly.

Schurters Blowen LT

Well i moved the red power wire from the fuse box to the factory red coil wire..(orange for me) it is the only one with power with key on...

Cut the blue (est) wire off of the Green ( triger wire ) mallory box... I put a spark plug tester onto the coil wire and grounded it to the body ground/battery..touched the green wire to ground and pulled it off ..NO SPARK..Now the mode light will blink off when i touch the green to ground every time....

both of these parts are new

SO is my mallory box D.E.A.D ?

I did put power and ground to the couil the other day and there was spark..looked weak but still spark......

Schurters Blowen LT

Well i checked the power wires to the Mallory box and i would say they are fine....

i get battery power from the power dis box on the fender
and the 12v switched is off the orange coil wire factory....

so i am going to say that both powers are good...

NOW with this coil....i checked it again just to make sure...Now with the Mallory box unplug-ed from the coil i can put power and ground to the yellow and black wires to do i quick test on the coil...

With the spark plug tester hook up to the coil wire and grounded i put power to it, NO SPARK ? again NO SPARK ........WTF.........

OK 1 last test put an old plug in the wire, do this all over again...now there is SPARK but very very weak....so it can jump my old plug gap BUT not the tester gap..........

So i need a coil........

What about the Mallory box.....

lcvette & mn_vette what MSD box do you have and coil ...and part number to .........

Schurters Blowen LT

Your connections look correct. One way to test the system is to disconnect the G7 EST wire, and take the green Mallory wire and touch it to ground with the ignition power on. When you lift the green wire off the ground you should get a spark out of the coil. This is the way to verify the trigger circuit. Lifting the green wires off the ground is the same thing that the G7 EST circuit will fire the box. If you do not get a spark when the wire is lifted from the ground point, then either you have no ignition power to the box or no power from the battery connection. If these two power sources are verified then you have a bad ignition box.

I did this test over with the spark plug in the coil wire....and no spark.......

So at this point i am thinking that i have 2 bad parts......... .....