rickjaffe

tried to have my c2 alligned after putting new torque thrusters and firehawks on the car (picutres to follow); they couldn't do the allignment becuase the rear wheels were wobbling alittle. they suggested I needed new bearings. got some bearings (and the other part that goes with it) had a mechanic put them in (plus new rotors and calipers on the rear) and it still wobbles. the guy says it's the bushings on the lower control arm or perhaps the control arm itself. it doesn't seem to me the control arm is brokem or stripped, so I thought I'd start with replacing the bushings first.
is that logical?
where do I get these bushings? 66 couple 327, 300? thanks

mrg

It might be the rear trailing arm bushings your mechanic is talking about . . Most of the parts vendors carry this item so it shouldn't be hard to find. I got mine from Fast Corvette.
If the mechanic replaced the rear spindle bearings did he also reset and check end play? .. The spec. is .002-.007; measured with a dial indicator.

kenEDMUNDS

Bushings:
Gm part number for the sleeves is 3819806, list $6.00 , you need 2
Gm part number for the retainer washers is 3820418, list $2.00, you need 4
Gm part number for the bushings is 3743857, List $35.00 each, need 4.
However, part number from NAPA for the bushings is 267-4406, list for $3.33 each! They are exactly the same as OEM ot 10% of the cost.

Tampa Jerry

I agree with mrg check end play and run out. Using a dial indicator check both at the spindle flange. Could be a bent spindle or incorrectly shimmed bearing. If the inside tolerances are ok, set up the dial indicator on the rotor. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Securely bolt up the rotor using at least three lug nuts and spin without the halfshaft connected. If you are out of spec here, you may have a warped rotor. Depending upon who cuts your rotors, sometimes they come back worse after cutting. If you have a uniform high or low spot on the rotor try moving the rotor to a different hole or try shimming the back of the rotor with shim stock. Once all are within acceptable specs, bleed your brakes. Too much run out can allow air to enter your brake system. Good Luck, Jerry

GTR1999

You have to look to see where the problem is,unless your guy knows corvettes? You can be picking up play in the bearings, the T arm bushing, or the differential yokes may a combination of all?
I would certainly ask him how the bearings were setup and if he checked the rotor runout. Anything over .002" is a waste of time,forget the 0-.008" spec. Runout over .002" with lip seal calipers is going to give you a problem. Diff yoke endplay over .040" is beyond the case hardening of the end and will wear. If you have more then .040" I'd replace the yokes.
I rebuild and blueprint all these items and those are the spec's I work to. Most of the local garages are not familar or experienced to hold this tolerences and will break parts in the process.
Look to see if the rear strut rods are bent-sure sign of worn parts that someone tried to get around by bending.
If you have any questions let me know I'll be glad to help you out.

rickjaffe

thanks for the advice; this is way, way above even my understanding let alone ability to fix. I'm going to take these posts over to my guy and see what he says.

actually the back end sounds worse than when I brought it in. didn't have any noises to speak of after I had the tires and wheels put on (one of the reasons I did the tires and wheels was because I was running 225's and was getting some grinding noise in the front with full deflection turns. That was mostly eliminated by switching to 215s.

however after the rear new calipers and rotors were put in had some rubbing on the calliper from the rotor. can see where it was rubbing. they're grinding down the outside of the calliper now.
but I also had some of the same rubbing in the rear which I had in the front before the tire change. don't know what that's about.
hopefully I'm won't be taking an expensive two step back for one step forward. thanks for the advice.

Tampa Jerry

Please be careful. There is no way that you should have to grind a caliper to make it fit. Is the shop you are dealing with familiar with the c2/c3 system? Does not sound like it? Jerry

rickjaffe

astute comment. turns out the new rotor was defective and was causing the problem.
but in finding that out, the guy broke or stripped the bolt holding the spindle. there was someone maybe who could tap out (or whatever) the bolt, but I decided to go with a new spindle.
also, it looks like the reason there's play in the wheels is not the bearings or shims, the whole arm assemble is loose, so looks like I'll order some heavy duty arm kits for both sides.

C2BOB

This is not intended to start a debate but for years I've preloaded the spindle bearings. What is this .002 to .008 crap? Would anyone do this on a front wheel bearing? If you set them up at .000 they're several thousandths loose in a week.

paulywannafly

same here bob have rebuilt 100s of arms 02 to 08??????
done by feel and never a failure

Geek's 65

Think gtr and mrg are talking about the rear wheels/trailing arm bearing set up. You have to shim them. You are talking about the front spindle bearings.

paulywannafly

yes we do add shims and still set them by feel with no grease on bearings untill end play is set . then we take them back apart grease them and press them onto the real spindle . then put the dummy spindle back in the box for next time. Do it hundreds of times and you dont need a dial ind anymore