Ranger

I have started the routine of regularly changing the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. This is a practice I began on my second C5Z and it helped me entirely avoid clutch pedal woes (sticking).

There have already been a few reports of sticking pedal on the small fleet of delivered 2006 C6Zs. I wish to avoid that issue entirely.

A check of the owners manual showed that Chevy specifies its own brand "Super DOT4 Brake and Clutch Fluid" PN 88958860. I paid about $8.00 for a half-pint can at my local Chevy dealer.

I'll be changing the fluid before and after making passes and then again several days later, plus any time the fluid looks anything but clear.

Hoping this works as well on my 2006 as it did on the 2002.

Ranger

Ranger

Here is an image of the syringe I use for emptying the nasty fluid in the reservoir.

EDIT: Clutch Fluid Changing Kit

Ranger

Ego-Trip

Ranger...how often would you recommend this for a car that only hits the track 2-3 times per year? I'll certainly do my fair share of hard driving on the streets, but not all that often at the drags.

And what exactly are you doing? Just sucking it all out of the reservoir and then topping it off with the fresh stuff?

Ranger

I'd suggest checking the fluid every time you fill up with gas. Any time you see that the fluid is even slightly murky, then change it every few days until its remains clear. The reservoir holds about 3 oz., about 20% of the entire capacity of the clutch hydraulics. By doing this you are keeping the average freshness much higher and ridding the system of debris before it accumulates.

The procedure is:

(1) Draw out the funky fluid with the syringe.
(2) Wipe out the reservoir with a paper towel.
(3) Refill with fresh fluid to the fill-line.

That's it. Takes about three minutes. Take care to keep the (corrosive) fluid off your paint. I dispose of the spent fluid in a sealed container.

Some folks find this procedure too much trouble. But other that follow it avoid pedal issues that are MUCH more bothersome.

Ranger

TAL

Ranger;


Does the can list the dry and wet boilibg points of the fluid?

Ranger

No specifics on the can.

DOT-4 minimum standard is:

Dry Boiling Point: 446
Wet Boiling Point: 311

It is interesting that after all the sticking pedal issues of the C5Z06 (with DOT-3 clutch fluid), GM is now specifying DOT-4 for the C6. And on the C6Z06 is headshielding the clutch hydraulic lines.

Given the BTUs the LS7 puts out under high rpm, the fluid will still get cooked. That's why changing it can be beneficial from a preventative maintenance point of view.

Ranger

Redline Motorsports

If a clutch ever comes in the picture to be replaced I would install a steel braided line from the slave cylinder. I have one on my C5 and it allows me to change all the fliud and as well as bleed any air that happens at the track.

Allthrottleandsomebottle

If compatible.......I would recommed this:
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
ATE Super Blue has done very well in our Vettes even for all day road racing.
Based on Scott boiling his in SC last weekened in cool temps, I would think this to be a good move. That All Alum 427 puts off some heat, and headers dont help it.

allanlaw

Looks better than the turkey baster I use. I've got a remote bleeder valve in my C5 so I can bleed the whole clutch system from the engine compartment.

Z06Doc

Ranger

I was under the impression the system was sealed because my dealer said no fluid changes were required - obviously that information was wrong. Where's the resevoir fill inlet located? I had occasional problems with my 01 Z06 clutch sticking and I'd like to avoid them. Thanks.

RoHo

Ranger, Let me get this right, so your changing the clutch fluid at the track, are you making two or three passes and then changing it or ?

I took your advice with my C5Z and have never had a sticking clutch problem, I was changing it before and after the drags but not there, I guess it couldn't hurt.

Ranger

Hi Doc. The round reservoir in on the drivers side edge of the engine bay in the rear most portion. A picture of the cap is in the owner's manual at 5-28 and its location is shown on page 5-12.

Ranger

Ranger

Hey RoHo,

I generally change it before and after going to the track and then again a few day later if it is not completely clear.

I've changed it at track rentals when making 15-20 passes. But not at regular 5-10 pass events.

Ranger

Z06Doc

Thanks Ranger. (I guess I coulda thought to check the owner's manual - dah)

Ranger

I apologize Doc. I didn't mean to come across that way.

My owners manual was sitting by the computer and it was an easier reference than walking to the garage to refresh my memory on the visual layout of my three week old car's engine bay.

Ranger

Ranger

After six passes on Saturday, my clutch fluid had turned a murky deep yellow, rather than clear. I swapped the fluid in the reservoir at the track and will do so again every few days until it remains clear. If you are doing launches and hard runs through the gears...suggest you start a clutch fluid maintenance routine.

As on the C5Z, doing this may avoid clutch pedal woes on the C6Z

Ranger

AFVETTE

Great tip, I'll be using on my soon to be delivered 6-speed C6.

Hey MOD's why not add this to the FAQ section?

Tom

Foosh

Great tip, Ranger. Mine is now chocolate brown after 1900 miles of street use.

LIGHTNING

if you're only actually removing 20% of the fluid (as you stated)...what's the point??

Ranger

If you repeat the procedure frequently, the replenishment rate exceeds the deterioration rate and the fluid steadily gets cleaner. You can tell that by the color getting clearer.

Ranger