babbah

I have read the threads from Duke and John Z and wanted to find out which type of oil they run temselves...I have a 67 BB 435 HP with radical mech cam and have run Valvoline 20-50 Racing oil in it for as long as I can remeber, since 1968, It says it has API "SM" on the rating. Also has ZDDP additive...not sure how much...

I compared the viscosity numbers between the VAL 20-50 and the Rotello, Delo and the numbers are higher on the Valvoline product..Would I benefit by switching over to a Diesel oil as mentioned below? Which one brand would you reccomend? Also I run a Fram HP1 filter, anything better out there that I shoild run? I want to switch oils but need some advice from you ....Is 15-40 heavy enough for hot summer driving?

Duke wrote:

...or any other API CI-4 HD diesel engine oil like Chevron Delo or Mobil Delvac, and it's also a very good idea to add a can of GM EOS to increase the concentration of ZDDP anti-wear additive.

Change the filter after cam breakin or about 30-60 minutes of engine operation. Assembly lubes can clog the oil filter, so it should be changed, but DO NOT CHANGE THE OIL. Keep the high ZDDP concentration there for the full breakin period, which should be about 1000-1500 miles.

Continue to use CI-4 oil for the life of the engine and change it and the filter every 5000 miles or one year, WHICHEVER OCCURS FIRST.

Duke

Last 62

My experience with Fram filters, even the high performance, is that they do not flow enough oil to properly lubricte the engine. In drag race motors we sometime block off the bypass valve in the filter attachment. If you use a Fram filter, more often than not, the engine will lose oil pressure because the filter cannot keep up with demand. If you leave your bypass valve operating, which is correct in most situations, a significant amount oil will not be filtered. I always use AC Delco filters in my ride around vehicles and I have had good luck with the racing filter made by Wix.

Also, the first letter in the oil ratings indicates the type of ignition system. S-spark C-compression

Jim

SWCDuke

Any SM oil has much less ZDDP than CI-4. The SM spec places an upper limit on phosphorous content (the P in ZDDP), which is much lower than what is required in CI-4 to pass the wear tests.

Go to the Valvoline site and read the spec sheet. IIRC I looked at their "racing oil" recently and it was not API rated any longer because of the high ZDDP level. Don't use SM oil (except on a late model car) no matter what the other marketing hype on the label says.

The common CI-4 multivis grade of 15W-40 is okay for ambient temperatures from about 10F to 100+. There's not much viscosity difference from a 20W-50.

I use Chevron Delo 15W-40 because I can buy it in six gallon case lots at Costco at a good price, and I am now using it in all my cars, the newest of which is 1991. Since all my cars have low oil consumption and low annual mileage accumulation I'm not concerned about catalyst degradation on the catalyst equipped cars, and I would rather deal with a degraded catalyst than a degraded engine due to inadequate oil quality.

I'm not pushing any particular oil brand - just trying to get across the point that you should be using an API service category CI-4, and the brands I mentioned are the major national brands that are commonly available. I think Walmart carries all three.

Regarding filters I consider Fram to be the poorest overall quality of the major brands. There is a website out there where a guy disassembled them and offered some good comments on their construction quality, but I don't have the link. Delco, Wix, and Purolator are okay.

Duke

JohnZ

I use ordinary brand-name 5W30 or 10W30 in my daily drivers (both are leased - dealer changes the oil), and Shell Rotella CI-4 15W40 and AC-Delco filters in my toys. The Ferrari is different - requires either Shell, Valvoline or Agip 20W50 and Ferrari high burst-strength filters with anti-drainback valves; the filter is mounted upside-down on top of the engine and oil pressure is 75-90 psi hot and up to 200 psi cold.

babbah

I am convinced, I will change to the CI-4 Oil this weekend....

Now I need to decide on either Rotella, Delo or Valvoline diesel oil....?? All are available here...

Should I throw in a can of GM EOS at each change?

What would be a good Oil Filter to switch to from the Fram HP1?

What would be the AC delco cross reference number filter to a fram hp1?

Any other racing oil filter types out there?

As always, thank You Guys!!

SWCDuke

Why do I use Delo? I like the blue bottle better than the Rotella T yellow or Delvac's silver. That's as good a reason as any!

Prior to changing their name to "Chevron" they were "Standard Oil of CALIFORNIA" our own "state" oil company. Their "white pump" 103 RON Chevron Custom Supreme was the hot West Coast setup back in the sixties when you wanted to advance your initial timing to 16 degrees for that last iota of power without detonation on grudge night at the drag strip.

I've talked to guys at Chevron Research up in Richmond about gasoline and motor oil and they have always been gracious and infomative. I know a guy who went through the same grad program as I did who works for Chevron Research.

When I was a kid working in a gas station a buddy of the boss had a Mack highway tractor that we changed the oil on. He always specified Delo, and I got the job of pouring in the 36 one-quart cans.

Okay, I CONFESS. I'm BIASED!

Or you could buy whatever has the lowest price. They are all equal quality. Like I keep saying, buy the API service category. Further discrimintion is purely subjective.

I don't know what a Fram HP1 is, but if you still have the OE replaceable cartridge filter, buy a case of PF-141s or the equivalent Wix or Purolator.

If you converted to a spin on the PF454 is the replacement for the PF25, but some spin on adapters require a different type.

You should be able to cross reference the HP1 on any other manufacturer's web site.

EOS should only be used for new or rebuilt engine break-in. CI-4 oils have plenty of ZDDP after that. Change the oil at least once a year even if it has only a few hundred miles. If you store your car during the winter, change the oil just before storage. Come spring, it's good to go for the entire driving season (or 5K miles) until the oil change prior to the next winter storage.

Duke

PS If you can still can't make up your mind after all this agonizing over the choices, buy one gallon jug each of Delo, Rotella T, and Delvac. Your engine's oil capacity with filter change IIRC is 6 quarts. Use two quarts from each gallon jug for the oil change (and you will have 6 quarts left over for the next change).

This way, no one can ever accuse you of "brand bias" like I have for Delo.

babbah

Thanks Duke,

Delo is on sale here for 6.99 per Gallon, and yes I like the bottle also.

I have a spin on adapter on my BBC, It can use a PF2 AC Delco Filter....

The Fram HP1 I have on now is a spin on "Racing Filter" It will go bye bye...

Was reading about the Mobil 1 synthetic oil filter, was highly rated on the oil filter analysis. But I think I go back to Ac Delco...I run a Melling HV oil pump in my BBC.....Any suggestions?

Thanks Again,

You Da Man!!

SWCDuke

The PF2 is fine. Don't get carried away with racing this, heavy duty that, long life whatever. Most of it is marketing BS

Just buy fluids and filters that are OE quality.

HV oil pumps aren't necessary unless you have a loose clearanced high rev racing engine. Most of the extra oil is just bypassed when the pressure relief valve opens, but pumping the extra oil takes power.

An OE equivalent pump should deliver full pressure by about 2000 revs with the oil at typical operating temperature.

It's not worth changing it, but keep this in mind if you ever have to open up the engine.

Duke

67-427ci

After reading this (and other posts about oil) I to will change to CI-4 oil. I have a 1-year new GM 454/425hp HO Crate engine in my 67 (has 7,200 miles on it). The spec sheet for this engine says to use 5w20 year round. Is there any problem going to 15w40?
Thanks, Roy

SWCDuke

I'm surprised they specify 5W-20. I don't think GM is even specifying that for new cars, but Ford is. It's a lame attempt to eek out more fuel economy from the EPA test. (If the test data goes from xx.4 to xx.5 they can round up to the next integer.) But a 5W-20 is going to have a lot less film strength at 250F than a higher viscosity blend.

I don't see any problem using 15W-40 as long as you don't do a lot of cold starts below 10F.

Duke

66BlkBB

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Never thought about operating tempature for a big block. I have been running Valvoline 5w20 Racing Oil in my car for about 5 years now. No problems that I have been aware of. What is the operating temp. of the big block under normal driving conditions??? It stands to reason that 5w20 would have less viscosity than 5w40 but it certainly has more than the old 10w30 that they used to recommend for these engines.

66BlkBB

If anyone read my last post please forgive the stupidity with which I wrote. You would have thought that I had to many Morgans last night. Didn't drink a drop. Can't explain my ineptness. I use 20w50 Valveline Racing Oil. Don't know where those first numbers came from. Maybe out of my a--. Thanks for forgetting that last post.