Humy

I have been getting "service traction system", "ABS inactive" warnings occassionally on my DIC ever since I bought the 97 C5 - but didn't think much of it. D&M Corvette Specialists and Team Chevrolet (now Ogden Chev) dug and dug for the issue with no luck.

However, now I am starting to notice it only comes on when I go over a bump in the road "just the right way".

It seems as if when one of the rear wheels hit a bump the "right" way, the messages go on. Not every bump in the road causes this though.

All I have to do to have the code go away - is turn off the car, open the door, restart - and whalla the codes are gone.

There has to be a wire loose or something, based on what I am experiencing - I would imagine.

Any ideas? Thanks dudes

zeusoftexas

My car is a 1997 and does the same thing. I looked and looked, cleaned and cleaned, grounded and regrounded wires, no help. I finally pulled the lights in the dash so they didn't blind me at night when they came on.

I would like help also if anyone knows how to fix this problem??????

Istria

I have been having the same issue with my 2000 Coupe. I would love to know what is the problem with this. I am wondering if the service manual or alldata says anything about this. Someone please help.

Cajundude

I had a problem similar to this except it started with just the driver's side window switch not working. I hit a bump, all the lights on the dash lit up. All the warnings in the DIC played. Sometimes it would go away and everything would work. I tore the car apart looking for a grounding problem. It was the battery. Doesn't make since, but that is what the problem was. I didn't check this first because I just bought the battery about 3-4 months before the problem.

Sicvette

Ok guys I feel your pain because the same exact thing has been happeing to myself. I own a 2000 coupe and anytime I would go over a bump in the road all the codes would come up (Active Handling, ABS, Traction Control). Car is under warranty so I take it up to the dealership and they replace the left wheel hub and sensor, go through the entire wire loom to the ecu, check the ECBM and still the lights are coming on. Now they are telling me that it is because of my aftermarket steel braided brake lines (which I have heard can cause this problem). So now I am having oem rubber brake lines put back on the car to see if the problem is fixed.

Its something like the steel braided brake lines can cause a static charge inside and cause the ecu to throw these codes.

Istria

I don't think it would be the steel braided brake lines because my car is completely stock and I have the same problem. Whenever I go over a bump in the road while holding the brakes, the lights come on. The car has only 28,000 miles. I believe its the connector between one of the front wheel hubs and the EBCM. Thanks for responding.

Cajundude

nikolai

Same problem here with my 2000 coupe.
I'd like to be enlightened about this as well!

NSTG8R

Ive actually heard that to be true .. whether it is in these particular situation I dont know but it came from a GM Corvette Engineer.

lost

Mine used to happen only if the car sat out in damp weather. cleaning the grounds and it stopped.

Istria

Hey lost,
Which particular grounds did you clean?

Istria

Hey lost,
Which particular grounds did you clean? Thats interesting, the TC and ABS light come on in damp weather when the car sits and then I go to start it.

Humy

Mine used to come on only when it was raining also - but now will come on even when I hit a bump in the road.

Humy

zeusoftexas

If you have your foot on the break at the same time the TC/ABS gets kicked off it feels like the system goes nuts for about .25 of a second. You can feel in the foot peddle the abs system kicking on and off about 3 times in .25 of a second. If you are rolling you can hear it in the brakes??????????

Stealthy4

This is a pretty common problem. I have the same problem on my 97 vette. After some research, I was told that it is typically one of the front wheels (although a rear wheel is possible as well). Basically the wheel hub has a wheel speed sensor built into it and has a couple of wires coming from the sensor. These wires then have a male/female connection somewhere along its path. Basically, the male terminal and the female terminal dont make good connections. Everytime you hit a bump just the right way, it quickly disconnects and reconnects. This is why when the codes are cleared, they dont come back unless you hit the bump again.

You dont have to turn your car off, just do the DIC DTC code sequence. The codes in the TCS area need to be cleared and then all your dash lights will go back off. Bill Curlee is the man with this. He has detailed pictures of the bad terminals and how he fixed them. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.

As soon as it gets semi warm here, I'm going to try to fix mine myself...

Istria

Thank you Stealthy4. I also heard its typically one of the front wheel hubs. I am going try and fix this myself too.
Bill Curlee, where are you?

Humy

thanks for the info bro - what is "DIC DTC code sequence"?

SteveDoten

not sure if it was brought up, but GM made un 'upgraded' front wheel sensor harness(it's about 2 feet long), i noticed a build date of 2000 on my '99FRC front harnesses, this upgrade was confirmed in tech by another member also, i've had the bump/code issue happen once

it could also be the wing affecting the cars balance

Stealthy4

To intiate the sequence hold button 4 down and while holding it down press the 1 button 4 times (it could be 5 times I cant remember) within 10 seconds (very easy to do). You can then let go of all the buttons. The computer will then scroll through the different sections (I think there are 9-12 different sections. 1 for PCM, 1 for TCS, 1 for BCM, 1 for HVAC, right door, left door, and a bunch of others...anyway, after each main section, the DIC will try to scroll through the codes that are either currently present or have happened in the past (example: TCS->C1226CH). The C and H at the end of the 4 digits tells you if its a Current code or a History code. Either one can be present or both stating that it happened in the past and is still happening. Usually if its a H (history code) you will want to clear it to see if it comes back. Many times, tons of codes are set if your battery is super low or disconnected. Just clear them and call it a day...no big deal. If no codes are present it will tell you so. You can stop this automatic process of scrolling by hitting reset (the 6th button). This will enter you into the manual mode where you scroll through the sections and codes by using buttons 1-4. You would want to do this 1. because the auto scroll scrolls so fast that you dont have time to see each code and write them down, and 2. because you cant clear the codes in this mode. Once you enter the manual mode you hit the 4 button to scroll through the different sections forward, the 3 button to move backwards through the sections. Once you are in the right section, hit the 2 button to scroll through the codes for that section. If there are no codes, it will tell you no codes. You can hit the 1 to scroll backwards through the individual codes. Once you have the code up that you want, hold the reset button until the code disappears. To exit the program completely, hit the E/M (button 5).

This sounds complicated but in reality,once you do it once its easy. You can do it while driving down the road...take about 15 seconds to get them cleared out.


Also, I heard that a couple guys on here stuffed the wireharness pigtail terminals with grease to help protect against corrotion and water damage.


Rian