Solved! How To: Correct your C4's Window Alignment [Lots of Pics!!]
08-30-2005, 01:05 AM
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Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '07
Solved! How To: Correct your C4's Window Alignment [Lots of Pics!!]
It's finally here, C4 Gen! As you may recall, my passenger side window was giving me some trouble; Whenever I'd close the door with the window up, the window would scrape paint off the side of car.
But not any more! The following are the steps I took to correct the window problem. There were essentially only 2 things that needed to be accomplished:
1) Replace the broken Window Stop Guide, and
2) Adjust/correct the height of the Front Window Stopper L-Bracket.
ok, easy enough.
This is a catalog pic of a window stop guide (These guides are a SIDE SPECIFIC part, so be sure to get the correct one)
This is a pic of the front window stopper L-Bracket:
Ok, on to Step 1:
Remove the door trim panel. Most everyone here knows how to do this, so i can skip over the details on that. After removing the panel and disconnecting all wiring harnesses, switches, etc, this is what is revealed:
Step 2:
Ok, the door panel has been removed. STOP! Before your proceed any more, reconnect your window switch. Now look underneath the thin black foam insulation to reveal the molded sheet metal that covers your door's innards. My hands and tools got really sticky from the glue from the foam through this entire window alignment process. (Funny thing is I didn't have to worry about dropping any tools!
If my measurement memory serves me right, there are 7(seven) black "10mm" bolts and 1(one) silver “13mm” bolt that are keeping that metal molding in place. Take your socket wrench, and take those buggers out.
Step 3:
Remove the metal molding. *Please note that this metal molding is not on the outside of the door panel, it is actually inside the door panel.* Also, please keep in mind that your door lock mechanism is attached to this molding. I, myself, didn't try removing any of the small mechanical rods that were attached, I merely bent the sheet metal out from underneath the door panel to reveal all of the window mechanicals.
Once you have removed the molding from inside the door, roll your window down about ½ way. When you do this, you should see the location of the Window Stop Guide (highlighted in red.)
Be sure to look inside of your door panel to see if there are any treasures in there! All I found was a tiny piece of paper from the corvette plant, and the broken bits of the old window stop guide... Go figure!
This next pic is the broken remains of the old window guide stop.
But not any more! The following are the steps I took to correct the window problem. There were essentially only 2 things that needed to be accomplished:
1) Replace the broken Window Stop Guide, and
2) Adjust/correct the height of the Front Window Stopper L-Bracket.
ok, easy enough.
This is a catalog pic of a window stop guide (These guides are a SIDE SPECIFIC part, so be sure to get the correct one)
This is a pic of the front window stopper L-Bracket:
Ok, on to Step 1:
Remove the door trim panel. Most everyone here knows how to do this, so i can skip over the details on that. After removing the panel and disconnecting all wiring harnesses, switches, etc, this is what is revealed:
Step 2:
Ok, the door panel has been removed. STOP! Before your proceed any more, reconnect your window switch. Now look underneath the thin black foam insulation to reveal the molded sheet metal that covers your door's innards. My hands and tools got really sticky from the glue from the foam through this entire window alignment process. (Funny thing is I didn't have to worry about dropping any tools!
If my measurement memory serves me right, there are 7(seven) black "10mm" bolts and 1(one) silver “13mm” bolt that are keeping that metal molding in place. Take your socket wrench, and take those buggers out.
Step 3:
Remove the metal molding. *Please note that this metal molding is not on the outside of the door panel, it is actually inside the door panel.* Also, please keep in mind that your door lock mechanism is attached to this molding. I, myself, didn't try removing any of the small mechanical rods that were attached, I merely bent the sheet metal out from underneath the door panel to reveal all of the window mechanicals.
Once you have removed the molding from inside the door, roll your window down about ½ way. When you do this, you should see the location of the Window Stop Guide (highlighted in red.)
Be sure to look inside of your door panel to see if there are any treasures in there! All I found was a tiny piece of paper from the corvette plant, and the broken bits of the old window stop guide... Go figure!
This next pic is the broken remains of the old window guide stop.
08-30-2005, 01:06 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '07
Step 4:
Ok, it’s time to remove the old Window Stop Guide. Your new (passenger side) guide should look like this (Remember, these window guides are Side specific)
There is a retainer nut that secures the guide to the window, and it looks like this:
Here is my initial rendition of what I thought the retainer nut might look like – Wow, I was close!
Because I didn’t have the J-tool, I had to make good with the tools I had. Essentially, the j-tool is needed to properly secure the retainer nut so that it doesn’t spin when you try removing the bolt. For me, a pair of vice grips did the job. Probably dumb, in hindsight, to use vice grips to secure that nut, but I wanted that window fixed, and didn’t want to wait to receive the “proper” tool.
This is the proper tool you should use:
Step 5:
Once you have removed the bolt, window stop guide, and retainer nut, this is what your what you should see.
Ok, now put on that new window stop guide. (The new guide should fit perfectly so that you can attach it to the window while allowing it to slide along that black vertical bar you see in the picture)
(Sorry, but I had to photochop this next step, I forgot to take a picture of what it looks like with the new window guide on.)
Now, just put the retainer nut on the backside of the new window guide, and bolt it into place (Remember, you’ll need to use the J-tool or a tool like vice grips to secure that retainer nut again so it doesn’t move, etc). Don’t overtighten!!!! SNUG is what you need! Voila! You’ve just installed your new window stop guide.
You may or may not need to proceed beyond this step if your window still doesn’t align properly when you try closing the door. I took it upon myself to go ahead and replace the old window stopper L-bracket, as was suggested to me by C4 Gen.
(Assuming you don’t want to replace the bracket, then just put everything back together again.. disconnect window switch, reattach the sheet metal molding, foam insulation, door trim panel/pieces, reconnect window switch)
If you want to replace your old L-bracket, proceed with Step 6.
Step 6:
Ok, let’s replace the L-bracket. Very, very, very, easy step.
Let’s go back to this pic: The circled area is the bolt that holds the L-bracket in place.
Old bracket:
New bracket:
Ok, now unbolt and remove the old L-bracket, and put the new one on. Keep a mental note of how the old bracket is attached. The Velcro on the new bracket is should be facing away from you, and should be ‘high’ on the door. Almost think of the bracket like a Tazer gun; hold the ‘bare’ metal part in your hand, with the Velcro’ed end acting as the “barrel” of the tazer gun pointed at someone, and ready to give ‘em a light little jolt.
You may need to adjust the height of the bracket so that when you roll up the window, the top of the window glass stops evenly along its horizontal axis. If you roll up the window and the glass is still crooked/cockeyed when you try closing the door, you need to adjust the bracket height some more. Adjust the bracket until the window is no longer crooked.
You’re Done!!!!!!
Now just put everything back together again.. disconnect the window switch, reattach the sheet metal molding, foam insulation, door trim panel/pieces, reconnect window switch)
Ok, it’s time to remove the old Window Stop Guide. Your new (passenger side) guide should look like this (Remember, these window guides are Side specific)
There is a retainer nut that secures the guide to the window, and it looks like this:
Here is my initial rendition of what I thought the retainer nut might look like – Wow, I was close!
Because I didn’t have the J-tool, I had to make good with the tools I had. Essentially, the j-tool is needed to properly secure the retainer nut so that it doesn’t spin when you try removing the bolt. For me, a pair of vice grips did the job. Probably dumb, in hindsight, to use vice grips to secure that nut, but I wanted that window fixed, and didn’t want to wait to receive the “proper” tool.
This is the proper tool you should use:
Step 5:
Once you have removed the bolt, window stop guide, and retainer nut, this is what your what you should see.
Ok, now put on that new window stop guide. (The new guide should fit perfectly so that you can attach it to the window while allowing it to slide along that black vertical bar you see in the picture)
(Sorry, but I had to photochop this next step, I forgot to take a picture of what it looks like with the new window guide on.)
Now, just put the retainer nut on the backside of the new window guide, and bolt it into place (Remember, you’ll need to use the J-tool or a tool like vice grips to secure that retainer nut again so it doesn’t move, etc). Don’t overtighten!!!! SNUG is what you need! Voila! You’ve just installed your new window stop guide.
You may or may not need to proceed beyond this step if your window still doesn’t align properly when you try closing the door. I took it upon myself to go ahead and replace the old window stopper L-bracket, as was suggested to me by C4 Gen.
(Assuming you don’t want to replace the bracket, then just put everything back together again.. disconnect window switch, reattach the sheet metal molding, foam insulation, door trim panel/pieces, reconnect window switch)
If you want to replace your old L-bracket, proceed with Step 6.
Step 6:
Ok, let’s replace the L-bracket. Very, very, very, easy step.
Let’s go back to this pic: The circled area is the bolt that holds the L-bracket in place.
Old bracket:
New bracket:
Ok, now unbolt and remove the old L-bracket, and put the new one on. Keep a mental note of how the old bracket is attached. The Velcro on the new bracket is should be facing away from you, and should be ‘high’ on the door. Almost think of the bracket like a Tazer gun; hold the ‘bare’ metal part in your hand, with the Velcro’ed end acting as the “barrel” of the tazer gun pointed at someone, and ready to give ‘em a light little jolt.
You may need to adjust the height of the bracket so that when you roll up the window, the top of the window glass stops evenly along its horizontal axis. If you roll up the window and the glass is still crooked/cockeyed when you try closing the door, you need to adjust the bracket height some more. Adjust the bracket until the window is no longer crooked.
You’re Done!!!!!!
Now just put everything back together again.. disconnect the window switch, reattach the sheet metal molding, foam insulation, door trim panel/pieces, reconnect window switch)
08-30-2005, 01:06 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '07
Here’s the BEFORE picture of the window:
Here’s the AFTER picture:
Now pat yourself on the back, grab a beer, and say “Job Well Done!!”
Regards,
Vette U.S.A
Here’s the AFTER picture:
Now pat yourself on the back, grab a beer, and say “Job Well Done!!”
Regards,
Vette U.S.A
08-30-2005, 02:46 AM
#7
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Excellent! Taking the time to explain everything with pics 
08-30-2005, 03:41 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
Only problem I have is the window rattles around while driving if it is partially open. Wonder if checking these components would solve that and if early C4's are similar. I've had my door panels off many times, but never really looked beyond that. You should submit this into the Tech Tip section for all to have access to for future use.
Last edited by 86PACER; 08-30-2005 at 03:44 AM.
08-30-2005, 12:31 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Thank you very much for the writeup. I too had the same problem on my driver door. However, when I opened everything up,some other pieces looked in tough shape.
One question though and I hope I ordered the right part. Those guides, where did you order them and what part #. I think I bought the right item because I couldn't find them anywhere else
"window channel guides" from corvette america
# 39342 and 39343 (left and right)
One question though and I hope I ordered the right part. Those guides, where did you order them and what part #. I think I bought the right item because I couldn't find them anywhere else
"window channel guides" from corvette america
# 39342 and 39343 (left and right)
08-30-2005, 12:38 PM
#17
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See I told you... 
Only thing I'd comment on is the Step 3, after removing all the bolts, reach inside where the two plastic (white) rod guides are with a small screwdriver and pop the rod out by pushing on the rod towards the outside of the door. (Don't attempt to turn the guides from the side facing you in the flat blade slot, this will break them, only remove the guides (if necessary) once you have the rods free.) Once the rods pop free, lift up on the accessory panel until it clears the bottom opening. Slide it out from the bottom first as it comes clear reach behind and slide the locking tab off the handle latch and lift up on the rod to free it. Then where the two rods connect at the rear open the ears of the lever with a screwdriver blade to free the one rod and lift up on the second rod that attaches to the lock actuator.
A pair of needle nose pliers helps to pop those push type fasteners free. When in place they along with the wire harnesses help hold the sound panel in place.
Then remove the accessory mounting plate (panel). Also upon installation its helpful to put either painters tape or masking tap over the slip nuts so they stay in position and don't rattle.
Congrats on your repair.
Only thing I'd comment on is the Step 3, after removing all the bolts, reach inside where the two plastic (white) rod guides are with a small screwdriver and pop the rod out by pushing on the rod towards the outside of the door. (Don't attempt to turn the guides from the side facing you in the flat blade slot, this will break them, only remove the guides (if necessary) once you have the rods free.) Once the rods pop free, lift up on the accessory panel until it clears the bottom opening. Slide it out from the bottom first as it comes clear reach behind and slide the locking tab off the handle latch and lift up on the rod to free it. Then where the two rods connect at the rear open the ears of the lever with a screwdriver blade to free the one rod and lift up on the second rod that attaches to the lock actuator.
A pair of needle nose pliers helps to pop those push type fasteners free. When in place they along with the wire harnesses help hold the sound panel in place.
Then remove the accessory mounting plate (panel). Also upon installation its helpful to put either painters tape or masking tap over the slip nuts so they stay in position and don't rattle.
Congrats on your repair.
Last edited by 93JetJocky; 08-30-2005 at 12:42 PM.
08-30-2005, 01:50 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '06
really great write up! One of the best I've seen. If we all did this when doing a project, and saved them all in one place, we'd have a great reference for everyone doing anything.
08-30-2005, 02:11 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
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The window stop guide has a raised plastic bit that fits into the hole in the window, be sure this seats completly, when I did this procedure I got it off canter and went to tighten the bolt...
It's not fun to be covered in window pieces.
It's not fun to be covered in window pieces.
