sick_vette

Just got a new c6 z51. What do I need to lower it. How much can I get with the stock bolts. And if I get new bushings how low will it drop.
Also if anyone no where to buy the kit.
Thanks

C6FirstVette

10mm socket with drive for rear and very small 10 mm drive or a 10 mm box ratchet or 10mm open ended wrench for front (clearance between adjuster and strut is the issue)...

Here is the rear adjuster and plenty of clearance for a socket drive


and the front you can see the close proximity to the strut/damper>>>


I got about 3/4" drop just using the OEM adjusters...
Michael

jschindler

Michael, I just did two of them the other day, and your pics and advice are right on the money.

I found that the front goes down to what I consider a perfect height with the stock bolts, but the rear does not. I have not decided what to do next. I may cut the bushing, or buy the West Coast Corvettes bolts so I can save my stock bolt (a stock bolt cannot be bought without buying the entire spring!!!).

The Garage Master

I love the lowered look and have lowered many of my cars but never my vettes. The car sits pretty low to start with and there isn't that much clearance between the tirs and fenders so I feel it is low enough. My cobras sat very high plus the factory suspension was junk so it was a no brainer and my harley truck but it was a rougher ride and for me not the vette.
Having said all that and got off topic WCC call Paul they are a forum dealer.

az sheriff

what do you think about just adjusting the rear and leaving the front alone, the front seems pretty low already and the rear rake seems a little high. I do not want to go too far but I like the improved look.

jnel04

Is it possible to reach the bolts without putting the car on a lift? I don't have my C6 yet, but have an 06 ordered.

jschindler

I agree with you.

RichieRich

Nope.

You really need to get it up on a lift to get the bolts to turn anyhow. The above pics in this thread are great and really show what it should look like post-lowering with the suspension arms sitting right up against the bushings.

The way I did mine was to first lift up the front (turn the wheels left for easier access at the R front and vice versa). Then you need to put the car on jackstands. Then I put a block under the tranvers leaf spring and jacked it up slightly. This allows you to turn the bolts. Then lower it, crank the wheels the other way and repeat the other side.

The rear needs the leaf spring jacked too and the bolts can actually be turned by hand pretty easily part of the way if you do it right. Funny that first time I did the rear backwards (like on my previous C5) making fewer threads show on top of the bolt. Put the car down and it looked like a 4x4!!!

Lowering the C6 on the bolts doesn't slam it as much as the C5...my C5 always scraped a little on my driveway. The C6 I can usually do no problemo and it looks badass with it lowered a little.

BLK-DVL

clockwise or counterclockwise turns to lower?

vette6500

Seems to me like Counterclockwise from the pictures posted.
Just got my alignment done, if only I had seen this picture one week earlier...

BEZ06

You can reach the bolts by jacking the car. No need for a lift. Actually, I find it works much better just using a jack (and jack stands) and crawling under the car.

I have a 4-post lift, but I haven't used it to adjust the height of the C6. You need to get the wheels hanging down, so if you use a lift that has drive-on ramps, you'll have to jack up the car anyway. Then, on a lift, you're may have a problem getting a surface to put your jack on to jack up the leaf spring.

You do need a jack. I use 2 jacks - a floor jack and a bottle jack. You can do it with one jack and a jack stand.

You need to jack up the corner you're going to work on. If you only have one jack, then lower the car on to your jack stand. If you have 2 jacks, you can leave the car jacked up on the first jack (but I strongly suggest putting a jack stand under it for safety).

After the car is raised, put your jack under the transverse leaf spring (use a block of wood to keep from dinging up the spring). The adjusting bolt is threaded through the leaf spring from the bottom and the bolt head (or the rubber bushing that is bonded to it) sits on a frame member. You need to lift the leaf spring until the head of the bolt just comes up off the frame so you can turn the bolt.

The bolt extends from the bottom up. When you're working on the top end of the bolt above the leaf spring, you need to turn it counterclockwise (as if unscrewing it) to actually screw the bolt farther into the leaf spring, which will lower the car.

It's really a very easy thing to do and no lift is needed. After you know what you're doing, you don't even need to remove the wheel and can adjust one corner of the car in about 10 minutes each.

Now, if you're going to change the bolts or cut off the rubber bushing, that's another thread!

Bob

Maalox

Hey Jim,

So after lowering on the stock bolts do I need to go get a 4-wheel alignment?

Thanks,

jschindler

I've lowered several (C5's and C6's) and have never done an alignment afterwards, and never experienced a need. I think it's probably a good idea, but I don't think that just lowering on the bolts should create a problem. Mind you, I'm not 100% sure, but my 2003 was lowered for almost two years (16,000 miles) and never pulled and never had any tire wear problems.

SickRick

Lowering the car only changes the distance that the frame is held away from the suspension. No changes to the suspension are actually made.

That being said, if you haven't had the alignment checked (as factory alignments seem to be notoriously inconsistant), you might want to do so at your first (next) tire change.

Rick

jnel04

Are you saying that the bolts allow for a smaller height adjustment in the rear or are you saying that the rear is higher than the front?
(I'm not sure if I phrased that correctly)

Also, in your opinion(s) how noticable will a .5" drop be? Is it even worth it? How much drop is allowed on the stock bolts without cutting the bushings? I have an extremely steep driveway and the rubber air dam on my C5 (stock ride height) scraped no matter how I tried to angle the car out of there. I tell ya I sure am getting anxious for this car to be sitting in my garage!

not08crmanymore

Glad i saw this thread before i asked the same question!WHERE'S THE PICTURES of a lowered c6??

jschindler

Yes, the rear is higher than the front, and yes the front bolts allow the front to be lowered (from it's high position) more than the rear.

I have found that .5" is noticable and worthwhile. Surprising how much difference it can make.

C6FirstVette

After driving a bit I found that total lower height was just at 3/4" all the way around...and yes it makes a noticable visual difference but usual caution approaching speed bumps and drive ways... and using a lift... this type is perfect for this work since it lifts from the frame and does not load up wheels/ suspension>>>



Michael

purplepearl6speed

Now that's first class Michael!

RAT

Would anyone happen to know how much one full rotation on the bolt will lower the car? Would like to have a quess as to what the travel will be.

Thanks.........

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