Installing Classic Auto Air Perfect fit A/C
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Installing Classic Auto Air Perfect fit A/C
I received my complete kit last week and started the installation yesterday afternoon. So far it has been pretty straight forward and the instructions are well written. The compressor mounts were perfect. The biggest problem I had so far was the high pressure line from the power pack to the firewall block-off plate. the pre-drilled hole was off by over an inch (or the pre-bent line was incorrect). The other thing that is a pain is how tight it is working with the flex hoses. This morning I am finishing the flex hose connections and the air outlets. Then I have to pull the hood and install the evaporator, fans & other plumbing. In the instructions they do not mention removing the battery. If you have a big block car, I highly recommend it. Removing the old heater box (under the hood) is nearly impossible with the battery installed. Don't forget to reinstall the battery before you do the A/C plumbing on the engine side.
I'll snap some pictures and post them when I am finished.
Roy (I can't wait to be cool)
I'll snap some pictures and post them when I am finished.
Roy (I can't wait to be cool)
#2
I would be very interested in the results and the progress along the way. My 66 is black / black so air might be the way to go. Would look strange though, no option BB car with air.
#4
I know it may sound like it would be obvious but don't forget to route the A/C hoses to the firewall in such a manner that access is available for the battery.
Also I when I installed my Classic Air, research told me the micro switch was the weak part of the system. I wired in a rocker switch installing it in passernger console side panel. It's a bear if you have to replace the micro switch later.
It also won't hurt to inspect each 0 ring for nicks and make sure they are lubed well as you install them.. makes for a nice tight system.
Later.... vetzs
Also I when I installed my Classic Air, research told me the micro switch was the weak part of the system. I wired in a rocker switch installing it in passernger console side panel. It's a bear if you have to replace the micro switch later.
It also won't hurt to inspect each 0 ring for nicks and make sure they are lubed well as you install them.. makes for a nice tight system.
Later.... vetzs
#5
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by 67-427ci
I received my complete kit last week and started the installation yesterday afternoon. So far it has been pretty straight forward and the instructions are well written. The compressor mounts were perfect. The biggest problem I had so far was the high pressure line from the power pack to the firewall block-off plate. the pre-drilled hole was off by over an inch (or the pre-bent line was incorrect). The other thing that is a pain is how tight it is working with the flex hoses. This morning I am finishing the flex hose connections and the air outlets. Then I have to pull the hood and install the evaporator, fans & other plumbing. In the instructions they do not mention removing the battery. If you have a big block car, I highly recommend it. Removing the old heater box (under the hood) is nearly impossible with the battery installed. Don't forget to reinstall the battery before you do the A/C plumbing on the engine side.
I'll snap some pictures and post them when I am finished.
Roy (I can't wait to be cool)
I'll snap some pictures and post them when I am finished.
Roy (I can't wait to be cool)
#6
Burning Brakes
Classic Air vs Vintage Air
Still restoring my 65 SB and have not purchased "air" yet. If you check the temps here [zip 92211] You will find out why I need it.
My question is did you research Vintage Air and decide to go with Classic for a reason. Would like to know why, as I have not formed any opinion one way or another.
Good look and stay cool
Dennis
My question is did you research Vintage Air and decide to go with Classic for a reason. Would like to know why, as I have not formed any opinion one way or another.
Good look and stay cool
Dennis
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I was hoping to finish it today, but ran in to a road block. They mistakingly sent me the install kit for a small block car. I finished the interior installation and connected the heater hoses & temperature control valve, refilled the radiator and ran it to operating temperature to test for water leaks (all OK and the heater works).
Here are a few pictures. I'll post more as I finish.
Temperature control. Actually controls the water supply to the heater core.
Firewall block off plate. Went on OK, but had to relocate the large hole for one of the A/C lines. It was off by 1". You can see where I plugged the original hole.
Compressor. The brackets and mounting kit were perfect.
New controls. They look like the original controls and installed easily.
Flex hoses. These were tough to route. There is little to no room for some of the hoses. Since I have an aftermarket stereo (with speakers in the rear) I removed the factory speaker and claimed more space for the hoses that go to the drivers side.
The fresh air vent cable installed OK on the pasenger side, but on the drivers side it is too short. I am not sure if re-routing it will work. I'll get back to that later. I also relocated the passenger side courtesy light. I could not get the flex hose through to the louver.
All in all I think the installation is going OK. Nothing on these old cars is perfect so I expected a few road blocks. I'll update again after I speak with the factory tomorrow about the installation kit.
Roy (I can't wait to be cool)
Here are a few pictures. I'll post more as I finish.
Temperature control. Actually controls the water supply to the heater core.
Firewall block off plate. Went on OK, but had to relocate the large hole for one of the A/C lines. It was off by 1". You can see where I plugged the original hole.
Compressor. The brackets and mounting kit were perfect.
New controls. They look like the original controls and installed easily.
Flex hoses. These were tough to route. There is little to no room for some of the hoses. Since I have an aftermarket stereo (with speakers in the rear) I removed the factory speaker and claimed more space for the hoses that go to the drivers side.
The fresh air vent cable installed OK on the pasenger side, but on the drivers side it is too short. I am not sure if re-routing it will work. I'll get back to that later. I also relocated the passenger side courtesy light. I could not get the flex hose through to the louver.
All in all I think the installation is going OK. Nothing on these old cars is perfect so I expected a few road blocks. I'll update again after I speak with the factory tomorrow about the installation kit.
Roy (I can't wait to be cool)
Last edited by 67-427ci; 07-25-2005 at 06:47 AM.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by OCS1667
Still restoring my 65 SB and have not purchased "air" yet. If you check the temps here [zip 92211] You will find out why I need it.
My question is did you research Vintage Air and decide to go with Classic for a reason. Would like to know why, as I have not formed any opinion one way or another.
Good look and stay cool
Dennis
My question is did you research Vintage Air and decide to go with Classic for a reason. Would like to know why, as I have not formed any opinion one way or another.
Good look and stay cool
Dennis
Roy
#9
Melting Slicks
Looking at the pictures it looks like you got a nice installation going here and you will be Cool in no time Let me ask you a question because although I have put a Vintage air unit in my Street Rod I am not sure what type of set up was sent to you by Classic Air for your Vette. Does this kit eliminate the original heater core and heater box? By looking at the pictures it looks like it does. Just wondering because in a older Ford Van that I have I sent it out back in the 80's to have aftermarket a/c put in it but the system they used then utilized the original heater. Your system looks similiar to the Vintage air unit I purchase for the S-Rod being a/c and heater all together in one unit. Am I correct? If so I may just have to think about this for my 67' down the road. How much was your complete kit if I may ask? Did you buy it direct from Classic or through someone else?
#10
POSSE ZR-1 Driver
I did mine Classic Air install on my small block last week. I had the same issue with the hole being off in the blockoff plate. I'm not looking forward to changing the battery. It's a real rats nest of hoses right there. I may play around with them some more to see if I can get more clearance.
I need to move my courtesy light also so it doesn't burn a hole in the flex hose for the right vent. On the drivers side, I moved the vent to it's stock Corvette position (almost), instead of under the steering wheel and moved the vent controls, hood release and headlight switch so I could get to everything. So far, everything works.
The hard aluminum lines for the condenser that go over the radiator support for small block installations will not fit a 63-64 due to hood clearance (the hood grill depressions on the 63 and empty depressions on 64 hoods). I called Classic Air last Friday and they suggested a couple of tricks to try, which didnt work , so today I'm calling them to get some fittings and flex lines to finish the installation.
I believe the lines from the condenser to the engine compartment go through the radiator support on BB cars, so there are no clearance issues there.
I need to move my courtesy light also so it doesn't burn a hole in the flex hose for the right vent. On the drivers side, I moved the vent to it's stock Corvette position (almost), instead of under the steering wheel and moved the vent controls, hood release and headlight switch so I could get to everything. So far, everything works.
The hard aluminum lines for the condenser that go over the radiator support for small block installations will not fit a 63-64 due to hood clearance (the hood grill depressions on the 63 and empty depressions on 64 hoods). I called Classic Air last Friday and they suggested a couple of tricks to try, which didnt work , so today I'm calling them to get some fittings and flex lines to finish the installation.
I believe the lines from the condenser to the engine compartment go through the radiator support on BB cars, so there are no clearance issues there.
#11
Classic Air must have changed things abit, when I did an install 2 years ago I had no issue with the A/C lines going over the radiator support. Nor did I have to make new holes for the lines coming thu the firewall....
I see your installing a 134 Compressor, I did the same with reservations but they were unfounded. I get 34 degrees at the drivers vent.
I'm happy to see more guys on here being less intimidated and going for their own install. I'm sure those that have done an install will agree. There is alot to be said for the satisfaction of doing something youself on these great machines...
I see your installing a 134 Compressor, I did the same with reservations but they were unfounded. I get 34 degrees at the drivers vent.
I'm happy to see more guys on here being less intimidated and going for their own install. I'm sure those that have done an install will agree. There is alot to be said for the satisfaction of doing something youself on these great machines...
#12
Burning Brakes
67-427 and others that have put aftermarket AC systems in.
In the pictures it looks like the new under dash unit is larger and/or hangs down farther into the passenger foot room than the stock heater.
Is this true and how much does it hang down? My son is 6'7" and I'm wondering if it is a shin-buster? Of course, maybe skinned shins are more comfortable than the heat from a non-AC mid year.
Thanks
Ol Blue
In the pictures it looks like the new under dash unit is larger and/or hangs down farther into the passenger foot room than the stock heater.
Is this true and how much does it hang down? My son is 6'7" and I'm wondering if it is a shin-buster? Of course, maybe skinned shins are more comfortable than the heat from a non-AC mid year.
Thanks
Ol Blue
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The AC/Heater power pack does take up a little foot space. I am 6' 1" and can sit in the passenger seat without hitting it. Ol Blue, with your son being 6' 7", he may have some space problems.
I called Classic Auto Air this morning and they are sending me the correct installation kit via overnight delivery. Unfortunately one of the bulkhead fittings is on backorder (it is used only on the big block installations). At least with the rest of the parts I can get my car back together and add the missing part later. They are not sure when the part will come in (it may take up to 3 weeks). They are going to see if they can scrounge one up for me. I sure hope it gets here before carlisle. My wife told me she would not make another hot weather trip without A/C.
Roy (still waiting to be cool)
I called Classic Auto Air this morning and they are sending me the correct installation kit via overnight delivery. Unfortunately one of the bulkhead fittings is on backorder (it is used only on the big block installations). At least with the rest of the parts I can get my car back together and add the missing part later. They are not sure when the part will come in (it may take up to 3 weeks). They are going to see if they can scrounge one up for me. I sure hope it gets here before carlisle. My wife told me she would not make another hot weather trip without A/C.
Roy (still waiting to be cool)
#14
POSSE ZR-1 Driver
I didn't measure the drop of my original heater box, but with the glove box out, it looks lower than it really is. I think it's probably on the order of 1 - 1 1/2" lower. I don't have anyone here with big enough feet to make a difference.
Measure your heater box from the bottom of the dashboard crossmember to the lowest point on the bottom of the box and post it. I'll take the same measurement and the difference will be known by all.
Measure your heater box from the bottom of the dashboard crossmember to the lowest point on the bottom of the box and post it. I'll take the same measurement and the difference will be known by all.
#15
Burning Brakes
stock heater measurements
Subfixer
I measured my stock heater box and the dimensions are as follows:
Using a straight edge from under the heater box and straight down from the innermost VIN rivet it was 3 3/8"
Going straight back from that same location to the heater box it was 4 1/8"
Going straight back from the outer glove cmpt hinge mount on that cross bar it was 6"
Thanks
Ol Blue
I measured my stock heater box and the dimensions are as follows:
Using a straight edge from under the heater box and straight down from the innermost VIN rivet it was 3 3/8"
Going straight back from that same location to the heater box it was 4 1/8"
Going straight back from the outer glove cmpt hinge mount on that cross bar it was 6"
Thanks
Ol Blue
#16
POSSE ZR-1 Driver
From the bar at the innermost VIN rivet is 5" (+1 5/8")
From the bar at the outermost glovebox hinge screw position is 5 1/2" (-1/2")(Lowest point)
It has a linear ramp downward as in the picture above.
From the bar at the outermost glovebox hinge screw position is 5 1/2" (-1/2")(Lowest point)
It has a linear ramp downward as in the picture above.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thanks Subfixer
The space would be ok for my wife, but son's size 14's or my 12's might be a little tight.
The last time that Bloomington Gold was in Bloomington IL, there was a booth that sold AC that had much of the unit forward of the firewall as best I can remember, sort of like the stock heater box. It was offered with AC only or AC and heat. I'm going to have to dig in my files to see if I can come up with the information.
It could have been someone that made their own setup before Classic Aire and Vintage offered their versions, but then couldn't make a business case for continuing. It looked pretty professional though.
Thanks again
Ol Blue
The space would be ok for my wife, but son's size 14's or my 12's might be a little tight.
The last time that Bloomington Gold was in Bloomington IL, there was a booth that sold AC that had much of the unit forward of the firewall as best I can remember, sort of like the stock heater box. It was offered with AC only or AC and heat. I'm going to have to dig in my files to see if I can come up with the information.
It could have been someone that made their own setup before Classic Aire and Vintage offered their versions, but then couldn't make a business case for continuing. It looked pretty professional though.
Thanks again
Ol Blue
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I received the missing condensor brackets and condensor to radiator bulkhead hoses today. Unfortunately they forgot to send the liquid tube that goes from the firewall to the receiver/dryer (they are sending this part tomorrow). Continuing the installation, I was just about finished when I discovered that the hose that connects the receiver/dryer to the condensor bulkhead fitting is 8" short (big block cars get the dryer mounted on the firewall block off plate). I'll be back on the phone with Classic Auto Air in the morning. I hope they have the correct hose for me.
Roy (I'm still waiting to be cool) It was 95* here today.
Here are some additional pictures of the installation.
Condensor & fan assembly. I was a little concerned with the condensor sitting directly against the radiator support cross bars, so I split 4 pieces of 3/8" fuel line & wrapped it around the bars. You can see a little of it in the upper right corner.
Condensor to bulkhead hoses & fan relay. I connected the 12v relay power lead to the 12v terminal on the alternator and routed the wire accross the top of the radiator support. The instructions called for a direct connection so I decided to install a 25 amp in-line blade fuse for protection.
Auxillary fans
Short hose. The receiver/dryer gets mounted on the firewall plate & the hose end must make a 90* turn to connect to it. As you can see, it will never make it at the present length. The end to end hose lenght is 37" and the radiator bulkhead is 38" from the firewall.
Radiator bulkhead connections.
Roy (I'm still waiting to be cool) It was 95* here today.
Here are some additional pictures of the installation.
Condensor & fan assembly. I was a little concerned with the condensor sitting directly against the radiator support cross bars, so I split 4 pieces of 3/8" fuel line & wrapped it around the bars. You can see a little of it in the upper right corner.
Condensor to bulkhead hoses & fan relay. I connected the 12v relay power lead to the 12v terminal on the alternator and routed the wire accross the top of the radiator support. The instructions called for a direct connection so I decided to install a 25 amp in-line blade fuse for protection.
Auxillary fans
Short hose. The receiver/dryer gets mounted on the firewall plate & the hose end must make a 90* turn to connect to it. As you can see, it will never make it at the present length. The end to end hose lenght is 37" and the radiator bulkhead is 38" from the firewall.
Radiator bulkhead connections.
#19
Melting Slicks
67-427, did the Classic Air people recommend the auxiliary fans or was that your idea? I see your condensor is much larger than my stock one and I'm presuming that's to compensate for using 134A. I was considering adding fan(s) to my stock systems for the same reason but the A/C shop that did my evac and charge said the temps at the compressor didn't justify it.
#20
POSSE ZR-1 Driver
The additional cooling fans come with the kit. When I talked to the Classic Air guys, they said for the system to work properly, they had to be there. I guess they don't trust the factory fan to pull enough air through the condensor.