Here is why your hatch button quits (pics)
06-22-2005, 06:30 PM
#1
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Here is why your hatch button quits (pics)
One day last week the hatch button (the one located on the car just above the plate) quit working after a wash. I found the button was stuck pressed in. The FOB and dash switch still worked fine. After a few days it started working again. From the many threads it appears to be a big problem. Since it's a 5 min job I ordered a replacement from Gene for $15 as compared making 2 trips to the dealer to replace (1st for them to see / order it and the 2nd to replace it) that’s allot of my time and chances for damage.
Listed below is why the switch most likely fails and how you can fix the one you have if you want to save 2 trips to the dealer and are handy.
The switch is located just above the rear license plate and is accessed by removing the passenger side tail light closer to the emblem. The tail light simply removes with one screw (T15 torx head).
Test
(If you want to test (have your FOB with you) to see if this will fix your non working button. Reach in and remove the harness (pull back retainer towards the rear and lift out harness) from the switch and press it back in. If the hatch opens when you reconnect the harness the switch is stuck in and the procedure below should correct it, if it does not open the hatch you have other issues. The button is a momentary contact switch)
With the harness removed, press the two clips in the picture and the switch drops down.
Remove the rubber cap from the switch by just pealing it back with your fingers. I found dust and sand in mine.
Attach a strong tape (electrical, duct or masking tape) to the button head only and pull out the button. Looking up inside you will see a rubber button that contains the contacts. There is no need to remove this since it’s the button that was stuck on mine most likely due to dust / dirt and water. Clean it well using a small paint brush and reassemble. I would not use any oils or grease since this will attract more dirt. Since the switch has no return spring it relies on the rubber inside button returning the removable button and any dirt offers enough resistance to make the button stick.
I ordered a replacement but could have just cleaned it and would have been fine.
Listed below is why the switch most likely fails and how you can fix the one you have if you want to save 2 trips to the dealer and are handy.
The switch is located just above the rear license plate and is accessed by removing the passenger side tail light closer to the emblem. The tail light simply removes with one screw (T15 torx head).
Test
(If you want to test (have your FOB with you) to see if this will fix your non working button. Reach in and remove the harness (pull back retainer towards the rear and lift out harness) from the switch and press it back in. If the hatch opens when you reconnect the harness the switch is stuck in and the procedure below should correct it, if it does not open the hatch you have other issues. The button is a momentary contact switch)
With the harness removed, press the two clips in the picture and the switch drops down.
Remove the rubber cap from the switch by just pealing it back with your fingers. I found dust and sand in mine.
Attach a strong tape (electrical, duct or masking tape) to the button head only and pull out the button. Looking up inside you will see a rubber button that contains the contacts. There is no need to remove this since it’s the button that was stuck on mine most likely due to dust / dirt and water. Clean it well using a small paint brush and reassemble. I would not use any oils or grease since this will attract more dirt. Since the switch has no return spring it relies on the rubber inside button returning the removable button and any dirt offers enough resistance to make the button stick.
I ordered a replacement but could have just cleaned it and would have been fine.
Last edited by Pipedreams; 06-22-2005 at 07:00 PM.
06-22-2005, 07:01 PM
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Originally Posted by need-for-speed
Excellent write up 
just curious, does this mean it will be a continuing problem ?
just curious, does this mean it will be a continuing problem ?
06-22-2005, 07:18 PM
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Melting Slicks
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PipeDreams, I don't have a C6 yet but I'm glad that you are part of this forum for when I do! I am sure your expertise is appreciated by many. Thanks for being there. 
FLYZLOW
FLYZLOW
06-22-2005, 07:37 PM
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Le Mans Master
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Very nice post. This procedure will address the systemic cause of the failure, which is internal water intrusion and contamination. So that one does not have to repeat this procedure every few months, the root cause has to be identified. I suppose a "sealed" switch would correct the root cause of the failure. If the new part is the same as the original part, perhaps one could seal the switch with a silicon adhesive to prevent the internal water intrusion and contamination.
The old P.N. was 89023924, so maybe P.N. 10349807 is new and improved???
The old P.N. was 89023924, so maybe P.N. 10349807 is new and improved???
Last edited by calemasters; 06-22-2005 at 07:42 PM.
06-22-2005, 08:28 PM
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And to think PIPEDREAMS was gone for awhile. Thanks for the info bud!
06-23-2005, 12:47 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by C6BOB
The old one was a regular button with a gap around it where dirt could get in. The new one has a thin rubber cover that protects the gap.
