ASP pulley TO KEY OR NOT TO KEY
#1
Pro
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ASP pulley TO KEY OR NOT TO KEY
I am installing a ASP underdrinve pulley. Is it necessary to key the pulley? Has anyone had a problem with the pulley coming off?
If you need to key, are there any sites on how to do this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
If you need to key, are there any sites on how to do this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
#3
Safety Car
Originally Posted by leaftye
Yeah, go ahead and key it. It's a little bit of extra insurance....albeit one that doesn't keep the bolt from coming loose.
#4
Drifting
I am installing an ASP underdrive pulley as well and plan to pin it while I'm in there just in case I end up installing the Maggie SC. You only want to tear into it once and then only when you decide to put in a new cam.
#9
Team Owner
Here's Sidestep (Scotty) drilling his pulley/crank to pin his pulley onto the crank using pinning tool. We did this during his ATI s/c install.
You can see the resulting hole that spans the crank snout and pulley with the 1/4" dowel that acts as the pin.
We reused his stock pulley and it has never given him any problems. However, I believe it's worth using a new pulley to keep the benefits of the virgin press fit only a new pulley can give you. Even unmolested stock pulleys can walk off. Check out the C6 archives sometime and read about the teething problems they've had.
You can see the resulting hole that spans the crank snout and pulley with the 1/4" dowel that acts as the pin.
We reused his stock pulley and it has never given him any problems. However, I believe it's worth using a new pulley to keep the benefits of the virgin press fit only a new pulley can give you. Even unmolested stock pulleys can walk off. Check out the C6 archives sometime and read about the teething problems they've had.
#13
Originally Posted by Patches
I believe he bought A&A's pinning kit. The flange on the crank bolt covers the end of the dowel once you torque the bolt on. We hadn't installed the bolt yet when I took that pic.
FYI, I have an ASP pulley now and did the same process to it also... I have had the ASP pulley off for a cam change and had no issues in getting the previously drilled holes aligned...
Last edited by SideStep; 04-05-2005 at 11:47 AM.
#14
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2003
Location: Shelby Twp. Michigan
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For such a high speed rotating part, this should have come from the factory keyed or pinned. If you are doing any work that exposes access to the crank balancer (pulley).... I would say pin it !!
#16
Pro
SideStep,
When you pinned your pulley, did you use the old bolt to do the 240 lbs torque and back off, then go 37 lbs and the 140 degrees? I am going to pin mine and want to know how I am supposed to get it completely set in order to pin it at its max point?
Thanks,
Rodrigo
When you pinned your pulley, did you use the old bolt to do the 240 lbs torque and back off, then go 37 lbs and the 140 degrees? I am going to pin mine and want to know how I am supposed to get it completely set in order to pin it at its max point?
Thanks,
Rodrigo
#17
Originally Posted by SPDKLZ
SideStep,
When you pinned your pulley, did you use the old bolt to do the 240 lbs torque and back off, then go 37 lbs and the 140 degrees? I am going to pin mine and want to know how I am supposed to get it completely set in order to pin it at its max point?
Thanks,
Rodrigo
When you pinned your pulley, did you use the old bolt to do the 240 lbs torque and back off, then go 37 lbs and the 140 degrees? I am going to pin mine and want to know how I am supposed to get it completely set in order to pin it at its max point?
Thanks,
Rodrigo
removed the old crank bolt and pinned the pulley/crank. THEN I installed the
new bolt....
Hope this helps...