mos90

1) compession is only about 155 psi.. should be 190
2) will backfire through the intake unless a raise the timing very high.
3) raw fuel in the intake and exhaust..

do all these signs point to a LARGE mistake on installing the cam???

Pete K

yes

mos90

!#$%^&^&**)I&**(

ive put 50 cams in and have NEVER screwed up...until now..

did i mention a large amount of grey or white smoke..


how should i check to make sure, without pulling timing cover??

JAKE

Have you double-checked the lifter preload adjustment to make sure one of them isn't being held open by too tight an adjustment?

I'd do that first before tearing into the engine again.

The only way I know of checking it is with a degree wheel and a dial indicator on the #1 intake pushrod. Setting that up can be almost as much work as pulling the TC cover though.

Jake

mos90

yes.. too many problems for just lifter preload...

timing wouldnt help if it was lifter adjustment...

JAKE

That's an assumption I'm not willing to make. I ALWAYS check the easier stuff first.

Jake

siggy_freud

K.i.s.s.

LT-4 CE

Or the distributor could be installed out of phase. Making radical timing adjustments will change the operating characteristics if the distributor is off a tooth too.

mos90

i will check the drivers side tomarrow.. just to be save.

and lt4..positon of the dist will not matter if you can your desired base timing. and im at 6* so that rules out a crank timing issue..

i just checked the to see when the cam was opening and closing. it is hard to see 90*past tdc so i will use the intake valve in reference to tdc.
the #1 intake valve will start to open just as soon you pass tdc on the #1 cylinder. this is the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning of the intake stroke.. does that sound right?? is that when it should open?

CFI-EFI

NO! The intake should start to open BEFORE TDC. Your timing card will tell you by how much. Also, the exhaust will close after TDC. This has ME concerned much as anything else, you've mentioned. It sounds like you may be consuming water. It's possible your problems have nothing to do with the camshaft or valve train.

RACE ON!!!

CFI-EFI

NO! The intake should start to open BEFORE TDC. Your timing card will tell you by how much. Also, the exhaust will close after TDC. This has ME concerned as much as anything else, you've mentioned. It sounds like you may be consuming water. It's possible your problems have nothing to do with the camshaft or valve train.

RACE ON!!!

FoolCrzy

JAKE

White smoke out the muffler is coolant or exhaust condensation. Condensation should go away after the engine runs a while.

If it's coolant it can also show up in the oil pan and with one or more plug tips lacking any color. Radiator coolant level will drop too.

Blueish smoke is excess fuel; plug(s) will look dark colored. Plugs that are too cold will end up showing the same condition.

Black smoke is oil (you can usually rub your fingers inside the tail pipe and feel it).

Jake

mos90

update... my cam card say intake valve will open at 4.7* btdc. my intake valve is opening at 2* atdc.if you take the teeth on the cam gear, 56, and divide it by 360 you get 6.4* per tooth. i installed the cam 6.4* advanced.. that is why it runs better when i advance the timing to 13 or 14 *vs. 6*

as far as my smoke being water, is it definately not water, it is raw fuel..it is more blue then any other color..

this all stems back to the problem that i am "showing" rich.. when im really not. the o2 sensor is reading the unburned fuel as oxygen which in turn makes the computer think im lean, thus adding fuel when not needed. making my blm fall to 108..

FoolCrzy

Good Luck!!!

CFI-EFI

Sorry. I can only go by what you tell us. *I* can't see it from here.
That must be a very special O2, that senses HCs as oxygen. A rich mixture results in a greater than normal amount of the oxygen being consumed during the combustion precess. The oxygen poor exhaust is read as a "rich" mixture. The O2 is an oxygen sensor. It doesn't know or recognize "unburned fuel".



Jake,
I think you have your blue and black mixed up. Blue is oil. Black (sooty) is excess fuel.

RACE ON!!!

Sam Lam

Mos90: Here is something you may try! You will have to pull the valve covers to do it! Assuming your "0" degree timing mark is accurate, the #1 valves will be fully closed when you are TDC on the #1 combustion stroke. As the #1 cylinder comes to TDC, The #6 valves are "rocking". That is one #6 valve has just closed (at the #1 TDC point) and the other #6 valve immediately begins to open as the crank is turned just a few degrees. If you cam is not in the correct position, the #6 valves will not be rocking as you pass the #1 TDC point. I have used this method to determine when I am on the combusion stroke for #1. I know someone who is in a hurry and has forgot to mark the location of the distributor before it is pulled Hope this helps you!
SAM

olman

[QUOTE=mos90]!#$%^&^&**)I&**(

ive put 50 cams in and have NEVER screwed up...until now..
.. I know your pain. Last one I did I missed it by 5 teeth I still can't believe it It ran fine just with no power. Can't remember if it was advanced or retarded. I'm actually supprised it ran at all. Start pullin it down.