HELP! Question on Replacing C4 Fuel Pump
03-20-2005, 10:23 AM
#1
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HELP! Question on Replacing C4 Fuel Pump
have an 86 with 80,000 miles..last night driving home, car suddenly died rolling down the road. It wouldnt start..kinda like it was out of gas..except i just threw in 20 bucks. After fred flinstoning several blocks home..the car would start but stall for a second or two. I noticed there was no priming noise coming from the rear. Just a faint clicking for a cuople of seconds on an initial cold start. Then it would be silent on every start after that. Im figuring fuel pump..since the last couple of months..it would peroidicly make that loud buzzing noise while the car was warm? I think it finally went. It died a month ago..after sitting a hour started up and never did it again. BUT anyways..could anybody give me a simple lowdown of how complicated it is to replace. Ive never done this before..but im going to the parts store to pick up an delco unit. my buddy said i have to take out spare tire.cover ...etc. etc.. but id figure id ask you guys, since im sure somebodys had to replace em before..THANKS IN ADVANCE!!
03-20-2005, 10:41 AM
#2
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Location: Partying with the Cowboys cheerleaders in Mt. Olive, New Jersey
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Do a search for this topic, you'll see lots of tip and procedures. Everything is accessible by detaching the fuel filler door, and remove related components from that point on. I don't know why the tire carrier have to do with anything fuel pump related. Many people here run the high flow, reliable, Racetronix pump by the way, I think it's made by Walbro. Good luck.
03-20-2005, 10:45 AM
#3
To replace the fuel pump is a simple job. Very easy.
First, remove the fuel door. 4 t-15 bolts, and set aside. Then remove rubber filler using care not to tear it. Fuel cap must be off for this step. Then you will see 3 fuel lines and 1 electrical connector. Unhook all of these. Next, remove the 9 10 mm bolts that hold in sender assembly and pull it out carefully. Once it is on the bench, remove fuel pump and replace along with new fuel sock. If you want to go the extra mile, replace the fuel pump relay on the firewall, next to windshield wiper motor. Of course change the fuel filter.
First, remove the fuel door. 4 t-15 bolts, and set aside. Then remove rubber filler using care not to tear it. Fuel cap must be off for this step. Then you will see 3 fuel lines and 1 electrical connector. Unhook all of these. Next, remove the 9 10 mm bolts that hold in sender assembly and pull it out carefully. Once it is on the bench, remove fuel pump and replace along with new fuel sock. If you want to go the extra mile, replace the fuel pump relay on the firewall, next to windshield wiper motor. Of course change the fuel filter.
03-20-2005, 10:46 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Actually, it's a pretty simple process:
1) Disconnect battery
2) Remove the gas filler door assembly; I believe it's for star screws (my car's being painted or I'd go look)
3) Remove the gas cap
4) Remove the rubber piece that fits around the neck and sits on the gas tank
5) Disconnect all the hoses (a little gas may run out)
6) Follow the wires leaving the neck assembly to a connector and disconnect.
7) Remove all the bolts you see holding the neck piece in place (If I remeber correctly its 8)
8) Slowly lift the neck assembly out; you'll have to twist it a little as you do to clear the fuel level float.
Note: I always lay towels and rags down on my rear deck just before pulling it out to catch any dripping gas.
9) The fuel pump is at the end of the neck assembly.
10) Follow the instructions for installing the new pump that come with it (once you see the old pump, you'll how)
11) reverse the process to put it back together once you've swapped pumps
1) Disconnect battery
2) Remove the gas filler door assembly; I believe it's for star screws (my car's being painted or I'd go look)
3) Remove the gas cap
4) Remove the rubber piece that fits around the neck and sits on the gas tank
5) Disconnect all the hoses (a little gas may run out)
6) Follow the wires leaving the neck assembly to a connector and disconnect.
7) Remove all the bolts you see holding the neck piece in place (If I remeber correctly its 8)
8) Slowly lift the neck assembly out; you'll have to twist it a little as you do to clear the fuel level float.
Note: I always lay towels and rags down on my rear deck just before pulling it out to catch any dripping gas.
9) The fuel pump is at the end of the neck assembly.
10) Follow the instructions for installing the new pump that come with it (once you see the old pump, you'll how)
11) reverse the process to put it back together once you've swapped pumps
03-20-2005, 11:01 AM
#5
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GOD...YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST!!!! I guess i can save my zanax for another day..as my breakdown and fears , are put to rest. Its a beautiful day..i have a ride to the parts store..and now , with you guys help, it looks like i will hopefully up and running today! This is great forum...i hope everyone appreciates it as much as i do...THANKS AGAIN!
03-20-2005, 11:09 AM
#6
Race Director
The pump quit on me while headed up one of the mountains in Colorado! Luckily, my boss(his Vette) had bought a replacement the previous week, but didn't have the time to get it changed.
No big deal. it's a 15-20 minute fix.
No big deal. it's a 15-20 minute fix.
03-21-2005, 08:44 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
Glad it worked out-first time, without knowing the fuel pump replacement was scarring the heck out of me-but the forum is the place to be.
That antenae mast is a nightmare if it's like my 87-if I had it to do over I would get the upgrade so the ribbon can be easily replaced from the top.Good luck.
That antenae mast is a nightmare if it's like my 87-if I had it to do over I would get the upgrade so the ribbon can be easily replaced from the top.Good luck.
