C6 Shifter Installation
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
C6 Shifter Installation
A few days ago, Classic-Chevy-Guy, aka Ralph, asked me if I would install a C6 shifter and **** in my C5 if he had Bob at Fichtner Chevy drop-ship one to me. Being the natural-born guinea pig that I am, I, of course, agreed to install it and post the installation procedure and my opinion of the C6 shifter mechanism in a C5. Ralph graciously ordered and paid for the shifter and it was waiting for me when I got home from work today.
I've been running the Hurst shifter with my own custom **** setup for the past three years and have been happy with it's action and throw but I've been itchin' to try a C6 shifter ever since I heard of the shorter throw (shorter than the stock C5) and revised feel. This was the perfect opportunity. Swapping a shifter is a simple task and normally wouldn't take more than 15 minutes but I ended up spending a good hour and a half contemplating and documneting as the installation progressed. I ran into no problems but I did need to make a couple of small adjustments. One was adding a new rubber cap to retain the noise reduction and the other was fitting my Ken King short boot over the **** before installing the set on the shaft.
Other than that, the installation was unremarkable compared to any other shifter swap.
Here's the shifter/**** combo.
The shifter alone with a good look at the angle of the shaft.
The shifter itself is about 10" overall and about 7" from the base up.
The base looks identical to the C5 shifter base.
It has the same type of rubber damping donut on the bottom as the C5 . . .
. . . and the same damping material inside the main upper shaft.
I've been running the Hurst shifter with my own custom **** setup for the past three years and have been happy with it's action and throw but I've been itchin' to try a C6 shifter ever since I heard of the shorter throw (shorter than the stock C5) and revised feel. This was the perfect opportunity. Swapping a shifter is a simple task and normally wouldn't take more than 15 minutes but I ended up spending a good hour and a half contemplating and documneting as the installation progressed. I ran into no problems but I did need to make a couple of small adjustments. One was adding a new rubber cap to retain the noise reduction and the other was fitting my Ken King short boot over the **** before installing the set on the shaft.
Other than that, the installation was unremarkable compared to any other shifter swap.
Here's the shifter/**** combo.
The shifter alone with a good look at the angle of the shaft.
The shifter itself is about 10" overall and about 7" from the base up.
The base looks identical to the C5 shifter base.
It has the same type of rubber damping donut on the bottom as the C5 . . .
. . . and the same damping material inside the main upper shaft.
Last edited by Patches; 02-22-2005 at 10:28 PM.
#2
Team Owner
Thread Starter
A close-up of the C6 shift ****.
On to the install. Check out my Hurst shifter install tutorial at Hurst install for details on removing the console and IP to get to the shifter. It's identical to that up to this point.
For this installation, I decided to replace the entire shifter mechanism, including the base, in case there are any differences not apparent by just looking at it. Here's the entire shifter removed. It was a matter of removing the two screws holding the base and the screw in the shaft coupler. I used a #40 Torx.
The Hurst and the C6 shifters side-by-side for comparison.
Then I bolted the C6 shifter in. It was a perfect fit. After it was securely bolted in, I pulled the neutral adjusting pin up to free the shifter movement.
I put my isolator back on and noticed my rubber plug wouldn't fit over the larger shaft.
On to the install. Check out my Hurst shifter install tutorial at Hurst install for details on removing the console and IP to get to the shifter. It's identical to that up to this point.
For this installation, I decided to replace the entire shifter mechanism, including the base, in case there are any differences not apparent by just looking at it. Here's the entire shifter removed. It was a matter of removing the two screws holding the base and the screw in the shaft coupler. I used a #40 Torx.
The Hurst and the C6 shifters side-by-side for comparison.
Then I bolted the C6 shifter in. It was a perfect fit. After it was securely bolted in, I pulled the neutral adjusting pin up to free the shifter movement.
I put my isolator back on and noticed my rubber plug wouldn't fit over the larger shaft.
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tanisdwninit (06-15-2019)
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Luckily, I had a spare 2" plug left over from my Hurst install so I cut a 1-3/8" diameter hole in it and popped it onto the isolater and over the shaft.
I put the IP and console back in and tightened everything down.
Then I took the boot and pushed the collar of the shift **** firmly into it. It took some doing as the shift boot hole was a bit too small. No big deal though. The shift **** simply slides onto the shaft and a screw through the collar and into the shaft holds it in place. Here's the completed installation.
I put the shifter through the gears and took a pic at each position to illustrate the throw.
Now, I haven't had a chance to drive the car since it got so late by the time I had finished but I will take it for a drive tomorrow after work. I did play with it while sitting in the stationary car for a while though. Let me just say that my initial impression is that it's somewhat similar to the stock C5 feel but the throws are definitely shorter. Also, because of the canted shaft, the positioning is better than the stock C5 shifter because it's positioned better for the driver's reach. The action is very smooth but not as defined or positive as the Hurst. The thows are longer than the Hurst's as well. I won't render final judgement until I've had some real driving time with this setup. I'll follow up with my driving impressions once I've had a chance to get a good feel for it.
Thanks for the opportunity to do this test, Ralph.
I put the IP and console back in and tightened everything down.
Then I took the boot and pushed the collar of the shift **** firmly into it. It took some doing as the shift boot hole was a bit too small. No big deal though. The shift **** simply slides onto the shaft and a screw through the collar and into the shaft holds it in place. Here's the completed installation.
I put the shifter through the gears and took a pic at each position to illustrate the throw.
Now, I haven't had a chance to drive the car since it got so late by the time I had finished but I will take it for a drive tomorrow after work. I did play with it while sitting in the stationary car for a while though. Let me just say that my initial impression is that it's somewhat similar to the stock C5 feel but the throws are definitely shorter. Also, because of the canted shaft, the positioning is better than the stock C5 shifter because it's positioned better for the driver's reach. The action is very smooth but not as defined or positive as the Hurst. The thows are longer than the Hurst's as well. I won't render final judgement until I've had some real driving time with this setup. I'll follow up with my driving impressions once I've had a chance to get a good feel for it.
Thanks for the opportunity to do this test, Ralph.
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SpeedRacerMach (11-04-2018),
tanisdwninit (06-15-2019)
#5
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Thanks for the writeup. What are you gonna do with the shifter after you're done?
I imagine you'll return to the Hurst.
I imagine you'll return to the Hurst.
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Christian327 (05-23-2016)
#10
Race Director
The typical Patches write-up! 1st rate!
I have a B&M, that I really like. I do kind like the appearance of the ****, though!
I have a B&M, that I really like. I do kind like the appearance of the ****, though!
#15
Race Director
....great write-up, Ed! As with everything in life, each shifter is a compromise. My BPP shifter is like a well-oiled shotgun in its gear selection precision. With that precision comes more vibratory "feedback", mostly at high rpm. However, the C6 shifter appears to combine some of the aftermarket short-throw attributes with the stock C5 dampening. I certainly wouldn't blame anyone for going to any of the many choices out there.
It's all a matter of preference.
It's all a matter of preference.
#18
Melting Slicks
Patches,
Thanks for the write-up. Just a couple of questions:
1) You menioned that you pulled the neutral adjusting pin up to free the shifter movement. How and why was this done?
2) Did you have to install the insulator cup since the c6 shifter contained the sound insulation?
3) Will this shifter requrie a short boot, or can the standard C5 boot be used?
Can wait for the test drive.
Ralph
Thanks for the write-up. Just a couple of questions:
1) You menioned that you pulled the neutral adjusting pin up to free the shifter movement. How and why was this done?
2) Did you have to install the insulator cup since the c6 shifter contained the sound insulation?
3) Will this shifter requrie a short boot, or can the standard C5 boot be used?
Can wait for the test drive.
Ralph
Last edited by Classic-Chevy-Guy; 02-23-2005 at 04:11 AM.