Who has installed a TKO?
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
thanks for all the replys!
I am in no way worried about modifying my car or original status. My car has been heavily modded and is very far from stock. When the car was purchased back in '82 it was already bare bones since the previous owner was an SCCA member.
The car has no power anything! no heater (I replaced the core I just haven't run hoses) no A/C no windshield wipers etc...... its bare bones! I use this car for around town fun car shows...drag racing and hopefully some road course action.
I will have to do some research on making the cross member removable...I have not heard of that mod but it would be a big help! I just replaced my clutch and put in an aluminum flywheel a few months back.
I am planning on going to 4.33 rear gears and an O.D trans sure would make it nice!
The money is stiff but it would not stop me, it will just take a little time to save up for it. I am in the research stage right now. I have been fighting the shifter I have for a long time. It may be that my Muncie has some wear internally and causing some shifting issues.
So for the most part is $3,800-$4k the standard price for doing this conversion?
I am in no way worried about modifying my car or original status. My car has been heavily modded and is very far from stock. When the car was purchased back in '82 it was already bare bones since the previous owner was an SCCA member.
The car has no power anything! no heater (I replaced the core I just haven't run hoses) no A/C no windshield wipers etc...... its bare bones! I use this car for around town fun car shows...drag racing and hopefully some road course action.
I will have to do some research on making the cross member removable...I have not heard of that mod but it would be a big help! I just replaced my clutch and put in an aluminum flywheel a few months back.
I am planning on going to 4.33 rear gears and an O.D trans sure would make it nice!
The money is stiff but it would not stop me, it will just take a little time to save up for it. I am in the research stage right now. I have been fighting the shifter I have for a long time. It may be that my Muncie has some wear internally and causing some shifting issues.
So for the most part is $3,800-$4k the standard price for doing this conversion?
#22
Melting Slicks
Well I can say, that the cheapest vendor at the end of last year was Hurst.
But I bought the clutch on my own. I saw the one they are offering can be bought much cheaper at summit. Think thats where they try to make some bucks
So try Hurst + buying clutch elsewhere. I didn´t need more things, everything was included (despite tranny oil).
But I bought the clutch on my own. I saw the one they are offering can be bought much cheaper at summit. Think thats where they try to make some bucks
So try Hurst + buying clutch elsewhere. I didn´t need more things, everything was included (despite tranny oil).
#23
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Posts: 13,652
Received 4,919 Likes
on
1,929 Posts
#25
Pro
Not trying to highjack the thread.
It looks like the American Powertrain kit is more popular than the Hurst kit. Any advice about which one is beter and why?
Thanks
Don
It looks like the American Powertrain kit is more popular than the Hurst kit. Any advice about which one is beter and why?
Thanks
Don
#26
is that an 8 rib on a vortech thru the hat??
very, very cool... when does the centrif really start to scream?? 3k?
#29
Pro
Member Since: May 2011
Location: Karlsruhe (Germany)
Posts: 708
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes
on
17 Posts
In my garage I needed 2hrs just to put the car on jack stands and to remove the Muncie.
Then dialing the bellhousing was a pain because I was alone and had always to slide unter the car to read the measurements.
To put the TKO in I needed 12hrs I think, because I have a non removable cross member. I had to disassemble the sidepipes and distributor, so i could tilt the engine. And all this back on afterwards again.
Well, ~20hrs all-alone-job without a shop and engine lift.
#30
I think in a professional shop with car lift etc. in it can be done within 8hrs if it was a shifter before and there is sometimes a helping hand.
In my garage I needed 2hrs just to put the car on jack stands and to remove the Muncie.
Then dialing the bellhousing was a pain because I was alone and had always to slide unter the car to read the measurements.
To put the TKO in I needed 12hrs I think, because I have a non removable cross member. I had to disassemble the sidepipes and distributor, so i could tilt the engine. And all this back on afterwards again.
Well, ~20hrs all-alone-job without a shop and engine lift.
In my garage I needed 2hrs just to put the car on jack stands and to remove the Muncie.
Then dialing the bellhousing was a pain because I was alone and had always to slide unter the car to read the measurements.
To put the TKO in I needed 12hrs I think, because I have a non removable cross member. I had to disassemble the sidepipes and distributor, so i could tilt the engine. And all this back on afterwards again.
Well, ~20hrs all-alone-job without a shop and engine lift.
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey Lars...... Did you make the crossmember removable?
If I am reading right some of you guys are talking about buying the trans from one vendor and the install kit from another????
I have read the description from American Powertrain.
What exactly is costing so much in the install kit??? Their price is $1,400 it does come with the correct length drive shaft and the connections for speedo. That seems a bit high!!!
I also see that they modify the body of the trans to move the shifter over.
Have any of you installed a TKO that did not have the shifter modified? Where exactly does the shifter sit? If a regular TKO would work and you just need to cut the tunnel a little that is not really a big deal to me.
If that is possible I may be able to find a TKO for cheaper than $2,400 that AMerican is asking for.
If I am reading right some of you guys are talking about buying the trans from one vendor and the install kit from another????
I have read the description from American Powertrain.
What exactly is costing so much in the install kit??? Their price is $1,400 it does come with the correct length drive shaft and the connections for speedo. That seems a bit high!!!
I also see that they modify the body of the trans to move the shifter over.
Have any of you installed a TKO that did not have the shifter modified? Where exactly does the shifter sit? If a regular TKO would work and you just need to cut the tunnel a little that is not really a big deal to me.
If that is possible I may be able to find a TKO for cheaper than $2,400 that AMerican is asking for.
#33
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I also see that you need to use a 26 Solon clutch disc.
I just installed an aluminum flywheel and replaced my disc. I run a CenterForce and it's currently a 10 spline.
Just browsing through the summit catalog and I see that CenterForce does not offer that disc in a 26 spline.
What clutches are you guys using?
I just installed an aluminum flywheel and replaced my disc. I run a CenterForce and it's currently a 10 spline.
Just browsing through the summit catalog and I see that CenterForce does not offer that disc in a 26 spline.
What clutches are you guys using?
#34
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Posts: 13,652
Received 4,919 Likes
on
1,929 Posts
No, it's the stock, fixed crossmember. Dropping the engine/tranny in as a unit as shown in the photos, this was no problem: A floor jack was used at the tailshaft housing to lift the tranny up over the fixed crossmember as the drivetrain went in. From lifting the drivetrain off the floor until it was placed in the compartment with the engine resting on the engine mounts took me about 15-20 minutes, working by myself.
Lars
#35
Yes, it's an 8-rib belt on a blow-through setup running about 7 pounds. The belt is tightened to the max, so any more boost would require a cog belt upgrade, since we were seeing belt slippage at peak boost/power around 6000 rpm. The system makes boost right at idle, and the bypass valve blows off boost at idle like a hair dryer, so power is brutal and instant starting at 900 rpm.
No, it's the stock, fixed crossmember. Dropping the engine/tranny in as a unit as shown in the photos, this was no problem: A floor jack was used at the tailshaft housing to lift the tranny up over the fixed crossmember as the drivetrain went in. From lifting the drivetrain off the floor until it was placed in the compartment with the engine resting on the engine mounts took me about 15-20 minutes, working by myself.
Lars
No, it's the stock, fixed crossmember. Dropping the engine/tranny in as a unit as shown in the photos, this was no problem: A floor jack was used at the tailshaft housing to lift the tranny up over the fixed crossmember as the drivetrain went in. From lifting the drivetrain off the floor until it was placed in the compartment with the engine resting on the engine mounts took me about 15-20 minutes, working by myself.
Lars
looks great... did you put the bypass on the hat? doesnt look like alot of tubing between the blower and hat to do... great set up...
any "belt dust" on the bottom of the hood? ... you can shread those 8 ribs with high rpm runs... your'e right to think about cog belt...it solves so many problems... we never could get a rib belt tight enough to not slip over 5k or so...
great looking install !!!
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks Lars!
Good to know..... I have no issue pulling my engine to make the trans install easier. I would rather not cut it and make it removable. There is so little to my engine I can have it out in under an hour.
Good to know..... I have no issue pulling my engine to make the trans install easier. I would rather not cut it and make it removable. There is so little to my engine I can have it out in under an hour.