DanielRicany

My radiator cap is new and I've been using 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water since the new heads. Also I have been topping it off with tap water occasionally, not much. But I only need to top it off after I attempt to bleed the system again and make a mess all over the floor. There is no coolant loss otherwise.

No I've been using 50/50.

It looks like the clean portion is on top. But remember this pump has been on there for a while. When I first got the car the antifreeze looked like vomit. I've only had the current antifreeze in there since like February or March, so I don't think that the corrosion happened recently. And I think the pump was replaced before, but not recently.

powerpigz-51

Looking at that pump, I wonder what the inside of the water jackets look like. Maybe pull the knock sensor to get an idea of the sludge buildup.

powerpigz-51

Not vomit....rust flake soup. Do your hose trick again, running the water through a clean white towel for awhile.

DanielRicany

I've flushed it a few times before so I think it's good now. The antifreeze that I had in there since February looks brand new still.

powerpigz-51

The water will look clean. But if you actually filter it, you will see the true story. The sludge MAY be lodged in the bottom of the water jackets, where a few flushes will not dislodge it. It is reducing the coolant capacity and flow around the cylinders. Rule it out by checking. Pull the knock sensor. Water should come out.

DanielRicany

When I replaced the knock sensor a few months back, water did come out.

Churchkey

Hose water flow test indicates the intake gaskets are installed properly.

@ 4K rpm your sheet metal vane pump impeller is in cavitation mode + IIRC the pump is overdriven. Measure crank pulley diameter & water pump pulley diameter & figure the drive ratio or post the sizes I'll figure the ratio for you. Track motor water pumps require a vane pump, a 30% reduction in pump vs ENGINE rpm + a 5/8 id restrictor in the stat housing. Moving the water through the system to fast = poor cooling.

You need a pump with a vane impeller like the pictured cavitation pump.

Tapio@FTTRacing

over 100 replies in this and still going, really?

Dont blame the heads, there's nothing wrong with them.
Why wont you test the coolant for exhaust gases, it takes you like 5 minutes to rule out your head gaskets.
If it's not your head gaskets, then change the new pump and lower hose.
My personal guess is that you have bad waterpump, probably one with slipping impeller.

And I would love to see video of it overheating, I just cant see why would anyone keep their revs over 4000

T. Wayne Nelson

Totally.....Where are you located, I would bet we can find someone in your area that will love to check out this phantom motor for you. There have been many on this forum that have told you what to do, you have had really good advice from some really sharp individuals, advice that is free, wake up buddy ask for help.....Then take it when it is given...

DanielRicany

I am located in Central New Jersey

WVZR-1

I'll betcha the Governor can fix you up - give ole' Chris a call

383vett

If not, Jason Kidd could easily fix the thing.

DanielRicany

New water pump is on, still doing the same thing. Here's a video for everyone asking if it's actually getting too hot. The answer is yes, my thermostat rated temperature is 180* and my fans come on at 210*, therefore it shouldn't travel too far passed 210*. Also, regardless of fan on temp, the same thing happens on the highway.

c4cruiser

Looks like the coolant temp never went beyond the low 220's (223?). Given what you are doing in the vid (high RPM with the car not moving), that is not bad at all.

Your car is not moving so the only airflow going thru the radiator is from the fan. I would think that driving the car at highway speeds would create more airflow than what the fan alone could provide.

In stock form, the electric fan may not even be running during typical highway cruising if the temperature range is within the ECM parameters for coolant temps such as below 228 degrees.

I have done track days with my '87 where ambient air temps were above 100 degrees and although I don't see speeds much over 125, engine RPM is just over 5000 and I have never seen coolant temps above 225. The engine is mildly modded; still has the stock heads, a GM ZZ3 cam, bored .030 over, some intake port matching and headers/true duals.

The 'stat is a Stant 180 degree and a 15psi Stant cap. I have removed the A/C condenser but I'm too lazy to pull the original radiator to clean all the crap out from between the tubes and fins. The W/P is original and the radiator hoses are about 9 years old.

383vett

Looks absolutely normal to me. Sitting in the garage at 4500 is not. But what happened to the coolant puking at 240? The thing never got over 223.

DanielRicany

It Will If I'm On The Highway. The New Pump Has increased The Amount Of Time It Takes To Get That Hot Though.

Tom400CFI

As I said earlier, I'm not at all convinced that you even have a problem.

You should look at your oil temps when you're holding it at 4k+ RPM. What do you suppose cools the oil?

hooked073

First I have to say you have some ***** I ssat here waiting for that thing to blow apart. In all the yrs Iv had my car it has probleys seen 5500 once or twice. It seldom sees the rpms you were holing it at even driving. Quess Im old and have seen way to many times what rmps can do to a engine. Besides the rpms your temps seem right on. Couple things you have to think about you have a 180 stat there is no way in the world you are going to be close to that at the rpms you had it at with just that little cooling fan trying to bring it down. Did you notice about 15 sec or so after you let off the temps were droping the reason being was the cooleant was moving slower thru the system and the fan and the rad were more capible of brining the temps down. The question you need to answer is what does it do under normal driving conditions. my quess on the open rd you will see right around 180 to 185 or so intraffic In not totaly sure what you will see but a quess is going to be 220 or so. These are all in the normal range. You said something about pucking fluid out at 240 that wis well below the boiling point so if that happened a couple of things could have caused it 1 a bad cap because you should never see 16lbs of pressure under normal driving, A air poucket that cooleant hit all the sudden can cause that to happen (RARE) or you are building up pressure from somewhere. From what I have just seen I dont see a problem. take it out and drive it normaly for a couple of days see what happens. Remember stock fans do not come on intill 228 or that range so you are still in the safe range. Drive it see what happens that is what I would do

T. Wayne Nelson

Tom, he does have a problem....The problem is----running that motor at 4500 rpm for that length of time. I too was waiting for the "POP" when the motor broke, I also am of the opinion that there is nothing wrong, and that he does not understand how hot these cares run until cruising down the road at 60mph.
Go drive the car my friend, and enjoy....

84wuzmy1st

Well, I can understand his concern though, he turns 3K RPM at 70MPH so if he needed to do say a constant 120MPH somewhere he would overheat quickly?

If you plan on doing more high speed cruising maybe you should change your ratio?